Who was it who mentioned Fram oil filters and dropping oil pressure?

  • Thread starter Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B
  • Start date
That's nice, but personal experience trumps a test any day. Time from
cold start to oil pressure light going out on my old Dart, >5 sec. with a
Fram filter. 1 sec. or less with a Wix filter. Guess which filter I've
used ever since.

nate


Wix got rated very highly from CR, but AutoZone doesn't sell them. The
CarQuest I used to work at (and got Wholesale from...) closed last
year...they were turning the key to Lock when I went to get some parts for
my Supra...there is another place that does have them. The Soob is due in
a few hundred more miles....time for a Real World test!
 
        If you notice the millions of new cars using Fram filtersaren't the
ones having problems. It is always the guys with the 30 year old beaters
who tell of their the bad experience with the Fram filters.

But I suspect not for the reason you think. A lot of the problem
is the position of the filter. And lots of older cars had the filter
mounted where it drained easily. It's not due to the condition of
the engine. Remember, I had this problem with a brand new rebuilt
engine that ran great, and it never did it again after dumping the
Fram
filter. My engine was not a beater and the oil pump was brand new.

        That is not to say Fram filters are high quality. They are cheap
filters, but they are good enough if you change the oil often enough.

-jim

They filter ok, but like one said, who cares if the valve doesn't
work
worth a hoot, and it's a proven fact that they don't.
 
But in the Consumer Reports test, Fram (and Lee Maxifilter - Champion) did
even better and was not only top rated but also check rated, meaning they
did significantly better than the rest. They removed something like 88%
of the test particles (I think they were 20 or 25 micron particles, but I
don't remember if the test was single-pass or multi-pass), compared to 70%
or 75% for AC. The worst filter removed 50%, and I think it was a depth
filter.


I'm afraid Lee filters are long gone. The last reference I could find was
a magazine ad from 1986. The last one I bought was '84 or '85. I can't
understand how they could go out of business. I was buying them 2-3 at a
time!

I used them in my 74 Corolla, my 78 Corolla, my 80 Corolla. They were all
high mileage cars, due in some part to the oil filter?
 
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B said:
Every three thousand miles, regardless of age/condition of car...

Yeah and I'm a talking dog. You change the oil every 3000k on a car you
have only had for 100 miles?

-jim
 
Hachiroku said:
Wix got rated very highly from CR, but AutoZone doesn't sell them. The
CarQuest I used to work at (and got Wholesale from...) closed last
year...they were turning the key to Lock when I went to get some parts for
my Supra...there is another place that does have them. The Soob is due in
a few hundred more miles....time for a Real World test!
Napa oil filters are Wix.
 
But I suspect not for the reason you think. A lot of the problem
is the position of the filter. And lots of older cars had the filter
mounted where it drained easily. It's not due to the condition of
the engine. Remember, I had this problem with a brand new rebuilt
engine that ran great, and it never did it again after dumping the
Fram
filter. My engine was not a beater and the oil pump was brand new.

I've seen rebuilt engines that are beaters.
They filter ok, but like one said, who cares if the valve doesn't
work
worth a hoot, and it's a proven fact that they don't.

It's not a fact and your account of one experience is hardly proof. The studies
I have seen give the drain back valve on Fram a good rating. Your proof is one
experience against millions. Any filter's drain back valve will leak if a piece
of crud happens to prevent it from sealing. That possibility is most likely on a
freshly rebuilt engine.
And the drain back valve have nothing to do with the operating oil pressure,
which was the topic of this thread.

-jim
 
But I suspect not for the reason you think. A lot of the problem is the
position of the filter. And lots of older cars had the filter mounted
where it drained easily. It's not due to the condition of the engine.
Remember, I had this problem with a brand new rebuilt engine that ran
great, and it never did it again after dumping the Fram
filter. My engine was not a beater and the oil pump was brand new.


The filter on the Soob and the Caravan are positioned so that when you
remove them, they are full of oil. Yuck!

The Supra...often the filter is dry, even if you remove it shortly after
turning off the engine. Not really recommended, since for some reasone
Toyota has a penchant for placing them directly below the exhaust header...

Burns to prove it! ;p
 
Yeah and I'm a talking dog. You change the oil every 3000k on a car you
have only had for 100 miles?

jim...jim beam?...oh,brother...now infecting groups other than Honda?

Jesus ever let you put your finger in the holes in his hands, and your hand in his side?

Once more, for the fans on the West Coast...

1988 Supra. Bought in 2004. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since I have
owned it. Approaching 30,000 miles since I bought it.

1989 Subaru GL coupe. Bought in 2007. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since
I have owned it. Approaching 20,000 miles since I bought it.

1989 Mazda 626. Bought in 2006. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since I
have owned it. Approaching 30,000 miles since I bought it.

1985 Toyota Corolla GTS. Bought in 1986 with 10,000 miles. Oil changes
every 3,000 miles. Now has 259,810 miles. (that's 86 oil changes, all done
by me) Hey! 86! I like that number!

1992 Dodge Caravan. Bought 2 weeks ago. Did an oil change. Will do an oil
change every 3,000 miles as long as I own it.

2005 Scion tC. Bought in 2006 with 11,000 miles. Oil changes every 4,500
miles, since I use synthetic in this car. Approaching 20,000 miles since I
bought it.

No, I do *NOT* analyze my oil. I just change it. Period. Every 3,000 miles.
Except the Scion.

End of discussion.


And, I see you type as well as talk. Formidable!
 
larry moe 'n curly said:
But in the Consumer Reports test, Fram (and Lee Maxifilter - Champion)
did even better and was not only top rated but also check rated,
meaning they did significantly better than the rest. They removed
something like 88% of the test particles (I think they were 20 or 25
micron particles, but I don't remember if the test was single-pass or
multi-pass), compared to 70% or 75% for AC. The worst filter removed
50%, and I think it was a depth filter.

You have to remember that the filter that will remove the smallest particles
will generally be the one which has the highest resistance to flow (smallest
pore
sizes).

Do you have any data that accurately describes what happens when particles
of various small sizes are left in the oil? I dont. I have, like you I am
sure, read
that they are not desirable, but have never seen HARD data.
 
jim said:
I've seen rebuilt engines that are beaters.


It's not a fact and your account of one experience is hardly proof. The studies
I have seen give the drain back valve on Fram a good rating. Your proof is one
experience against millions. Any filter's drain back valve will leak if a piece
of crud happens to prevent it from sealing. That possibility is most likely on a
freshly rebuilt engine.
And the drain back valve have nothing to do with the operating oil pressure,
which was the topic of this thread.

-jim

Everyone who's ever owned a car with an "upside down" oil filter knows
that Fram ADBVs suck. They don't work more often than they do, or at
least that was the case the last time I used one, 15 years ago.

If they can't manage to make something as simple as an ADBV work, that
doesn't say a whole lot for their overall quality, and I don't feel the
need to roll the dice with my engine when a better filter is easily
available for the same price.

nate
 
Hachiroku said:
The filter on the Soob and the Caravan are positioned so that when you
remove them, they are full of oil. Yuck!

Punch a hole in the top of the can while the oil is draining from the
pan; wait half an hour before removing filter.

It'll still be messy, just not *as* messy.

nate
 
Napa oil filters are Wix.

Someone else mentioned that, but the guy who used to give me wholesale now
works as the ass't manager at another parts store, and they have Wix
filters, too. ;)

At CarQuest, we sold Wix branded filters, at about $5 per filter, and
CarQuest filters, which were also Wix, at $3.99...wonder what the
difference was...

(Other than $1, of course!)
 
Nate said:
Everyone who's ever owned a car with an "upside down" oil filter knows
that Fram ADBVs suck.

Yeah and everybody knows the moon is made of green cheese. BTW which way
is upside down for a filter/
 
hls said:
You have to remember that the filter that will remove the smallest particles
will generally be the one which has the highest resistance to flow (smallest
pore
sizes).

Do you have any data that accurately describes what happens when particles
of various small sizes are left in the oil? I dont. I have, like you I am
sure, read
that they are not desirable, but have never seen HARD data.

Your not going to find research and hard data on worn out clunkers like
the one in the tale that started this thread.

Buying an old car changing the oil and putting a Fram filter on it
happens all the time. And it is not that uncommon for the result to be a
quickly clogged filter. Been there, done that myself. Now in my opinion
the thing to do when that happens is to immediately change the oil again
and put another Fram filter on. Why blame the filter for just doing its
job? I mean how retarded do you have to be to think the problem is with
the new filter and not the old worn out engine?

-jim
 
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B said:
jim...jim beam?...oh,brother...now infecting groups other than Honda?

Jesus ever let you put your finger in the holes in his hands, and your hand in his side?

Once more, for the fans on the West Coast...

1988 Supra. Bought in 2004. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since I have
owned it. Approaching 30,000 miles since I bought it.

1989 Subaru GL coupe. Bought in 2007. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since
I have owned it. Approaching 20,000 miles since I bought it.

1989 Mazda 626. Bought in 2006. Oil changes every 3,000 miles since I
have owned it. Approaching 30,000 miles since I bought it.

1985 Toyota Corolla GTS. Bought in 1986 with 10,000 miles. Oil changes
every 3,000 miles. Now has 259,810 miles. (that's 86 oil changes, all done
by me) Hey! 86! I like that number!

1992 Dodge Caravan. Bought 2 weeks ago. Did an oil change. Will do an oil
change every 3,000 miles as long as I own it.

2005 Scion tC. Bought in 2006 with 11,000 miles. Oil changes every 4,500
miles, since I use synthetic in this car. Approaching 20,000 miles since I
bought it.

No, I do *NOT* analyze my oil. I just change it. Period. Every 3,000 miles.
Except the Scion.

End of discussion.

You mean end of self absorbed delirium. Obviously you can't remember
what it is you originally posted about.

-jim
 
Hachiroku said:
Someone else mentioned that, but the guy who used to give me wholesale now
works as the ass't manager at another parts store, and they have Wix
filters, too. ;)

At CarQuest, we sold Wix branded filters, at about $5 per filter, and
CarQuest filters, which were also Wix, at $3.99...wonder what the
difference was...

(Other than $1, of course!)

"Store brand" stuff made by a known manufacturer is often cheaper for
exactly the same product. The mfr can tool up for a large lot, stamp it
for the store/customer, ship it FOB, and make their profit on
short-term volume.

I used to work for a school-supply company back in the days when "spirit
duplicators" (read Ditto brand) were the only answer for multiple copies.

We sold Ditto (part of Bell & Howell at the time) duplicators and
Ditto's own brand of fluid (basically methyl alcohol with some
additives). We sold the same stuff (from Ditto) under our own brand
(with it marked as "Made by Ditto for ___") for about 50 to 75% of the
Ditto brand, depending on lot size to our customer. Big school districts
would buy thousands of gallons per year....

BTW, this was also decent degreaser, fair to good "stove fuel", and also
a fairly decent "gas line antifreeze". I used to pour about a quarter
gallon in the 50 gallon tank in the back of my truck every other fill.
 
I
mean how retarded do you have to be to think the problem is with the new
filter and not the old worn out engine?

About as retarded as making a statement like the one above without
reading the entire post.

If you'll look again, you'll see I didn't have that problem with the Supra
with an "old, worn out engine" until I put a Fram oil filter on it. Prior
to that I had been using Toyota filters, but ran out of filters on hand.

With the Toyota filters, the oil pressure had been about 1/2 mark on the
gauge higher. I don't have much to go on with the Subaru, but the last oil
change was done about 6 months before I bought it and it sat for 4 of
those months. Oil pressure was good until I put on a Fram.

So, before you say something retarded yet again, why don't you just wait
until I post an update after replacing the Soob and Caravan filters with
another brand, and post the results?

I just find it funny that on three older cars, replacing the existing
filter with a Fram resulted in lower oil pressures.
 
Punch a hole in the top of the can while the oil is draining from the pan;
wait half an hour before removing filter.

It'll still be messy, just not *as* messy.

nate


The Caravan is positioned so if you have the pan placed properly, it
catches the oil from the pan and the filter all at once.

The Soob...it leaks out a little, but manages to hold most of the oil in
place.

The Supra? If the filter does happen to be full, you're going to get oil
down the side of the block and onto the subframe...
 
Everyone who's ever owned a car with an "upside down" oil filter knows
that Fram ADBVs suck. They don't work more often than they do, or at
least that was the case the last time I used one, 15 years ago.

If they can't manage to make something as simple as an ADBV work, that
doesn't say a whole lot for their overall quality, and I don't feel the
need to roll the dice with my engine when a better filter is easily
available for the same price.

nate

Interesting, since they are 'made' by Honeywell, which is a fairly
reputable company.
 

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