two sets of tires or one set of dedicated snow tires?

[Tim Conway]

Hi everybody, here's one to debate a little.

I have a 2000 Forester with 182K miles+ and soon need to replace the
Goodyear Triple Treds I've been using.

Would I be better off running something like Blizzaks year round and
replacing them often, or would it be wiser to maintain two sets of tires:
summer, and winter?

It seems to me, that I would be just as far ahead to just frequently buy new
Blizzaks or equivalent.

TIA for comments.
tim

 

[kaboom]

Hi everybody, here's one to debate a little.

I have a 2000 Forester with 182K miles+ and soon need to replace the
Goodyear Triple Treds I've been using.

Would I be better off running something like Blizzaks year round and
replacing them often, or would it be wiser to maintain two sets of tires:
summer, and winter?

It seems to me, that I would be just as far ahead to just frequently buy new
Blizzaks or equivalent.

**I vote for two sets. If I'm going to have two sets, I'd get
dedicated summers and dedicated winters in order to get the most out
of the tires during their respective seasons.

kaboomie

 

[John McGaw]

Hi everybody, here's one to debate a little.

I have a 2000 Forester with 182K miles+ and soon need to replace the
Goodyear Triple Treds I've been using.

Would I be better off running something like Blizzaks year round and
replacing them often, or would it be wiser to maintain two sets of tires:
summer, and winter?

It seems to me, that I would be just as far ahead to just frequently buy
new Blizzaks or equivalent.

TIA for comments.
tim

And you live where? The answer isn't likely to be the same in Florida as it
is above the tree line in Colorado. I live in Tennessee but often have to
drive up into Pennsylvania in the winter and have so far gotten along fine
with all season tires with moderately aggressive tread on my Outback.

Of course I got along fine with all-season tires on my VW Diesel Rabbit
Pickup (really!) driving it for 15 years in South-Central Alaska and never
once missed work on a winter morning because of snow or ice (although I did
once bury it full-length in a high snow berm during a zero visibility event
induced by a snowblower).

 

[Tim Conway]

And you live where? The answer isn't likely to be the same in Florida as
it is above the tree line in Colorado. I live in Tennessee but often have
to drive up into Pennsylvania in the winter and have so far gotten along
fine with all season tires with moderately aggressive tread on my Outback.

Of course I got along fine with all-season tires on my VW Diesel Rabbit
Pickup (really!) driving it for 15 years in South-Central Alaska and never
once missed work on a winter morning because of snow or ice (although I
did once bury it full-length in a high snow berm during a zero visibility
event induced by a snowblower).

I live in South Central Pennsylvania. I like the idea of snow tires, but I
really can't afford buying new wheels (even used) and new tires only to have
to buy 4 new tires again in the spring. Maybe just a new set of TripleTreds
or similar.

 

[clare]

Hi everybody, here's one to debate a little.

I have a 2000 Forester with 182K miles+ and soon need to replace the
Goodyear Triple Treds I've been using.

Would I be better off running something like Blizzaks year round and
replacing them often, or would it be wiser to maintain two sets of tires:
summer, and winter?

You do NOT want to run Blizzaks year round unless you want to buy at
leat one set of tires a year.After one summer of driving they will be
totally useless as a winter tire - and at their best they are pretty
useless as a summer tire. All wrong tread and compound.

The ONLY sensible thing to do is either run all-seasons rear round and
be running a compromise virtually all year, or have 2 sets of rims,
with dedicated ice/snow tires for the winter and touring or rain tires
for the rest of the year - depending on where you live (assuming you
DO need snow tires)

A Forester with GOOD all season tires will get around better than a 2
wheel drive car with dedicated seasonal tires.

 

[clare]

I live in South Central Pennsylvania. I like the idea of snow tires, but I
really can't afford buying new wheels (even used) and new tires only to have
to buy 4 new tires again in the spring. Maybe just a new set of TripleTreds
or similar.

South central PA, unless you are in the mountains (hills) you shpould
be fine with a set of GOOD all seasons - but you say you can't afford
a set of used rims - and you are going to buy a set of Blizzaks every
year??????? Price used rims vs Blizzaks, and your statement makes
absolutely no sense at all.

 

[Tim Conway]

You do NOT want to run Blizzaks year round unless you want to buy at
leat one set of tires a year.After one summer of driving they will be
totally useless as a winter tire - and at their best they are pretty
useless as a summer tire. All wrong tread and compound.

The ONLY sensible thing to do is either run all-seasons rear round and
be running a compromise virtually all year, or have 2 sets of rims,
with dedicated ice/snow tires for the winter and touring or rain tires
for the rest of the year - depending on where you live (assuming you
DO need snow tires)

A Forester with GOOD all season tires will get around better than a 2
wheel drive car with dedicated seasonal tires.

Thanks everybody. Due to expenses, I'll probably go the one good set of all
season route. Any good comparisons to the Goodyear Triple Treds?
tim

 

[clare]

Thanks everybody. Due to expenses, I'll probably go the one good set of all
season route. Any good comparisons to the Goodyear Triple Treds?
tim

No personal experience, but the Nokian WR or WRG2 are highly rated -
and if they are anything like Nokian's Hakkapeliita Snows, you won't
be disappointed. The WR and WRG2 are rated as "adequate" in snow, and
very good in both wet and dry. The Assurance TripleTread gets a good
rating too.

I'm running Goodyear Eagles on my PT Cruiser as my 3 season tires,
with Dunlop Graspics for the winter - and the Eagles are by far the
best tire I've ever owned for wet traction and dry traction on hot
pavement. They grip like they have claws. FAR better than the Tiger
Paw Touring tires I threw away with 75% tread left. Those things felt
like I was on ball bearings any time I touched the accellerator or
brakes - and it's NOT a Turbo!!! Looking at the tread, I'll bet
they'd be pretty reasonable in slop as well - but not likely terribly
good in deep dry-ish snow. The Graspics have been GREAT - on
Daughter's Neon, Wife's Mistyque, my TransSport, My PT Cruiser, and
Daughter's new Honda.

Had Blizzaks on Daughter's Colt 200 and they compare very favourably -
with the Graspics retaining the edge after 2 or more seasons.

 

[Hachiroku]

You do NOT want to run Blizzaks year round unless you want to buy at
leat one set of tires a year.After one summer of driving they will be
totally useless as a winter tire - and at their best they are pretty
useless as a summer tire. All wrong tread and compound.

Yup. I didn't have the money for summer tires 2 years ago and wore out a
set of Hankook iPikes in 2.5 years. $200. So then I got a set of Delta
Winter tires. They are wearing better, but will be gone by next (not this)
winter.

If you can swing it, get two sets of tires, and if you can really swing
it, two sets of wheels. Mark the tires as to side/axle and you can change
them yourself.

 

[Yousuf Khan]

Hi everybody, here's one to debate a little.

I have a 2000 Forester with 182K miles+ and soon need to replace the
Goodyear Triple Treds I've been using.

Would I be better off running something like Blizzaks year round and
replacing them often, or would it be wiser to maintain two sets of
tires: summer, and winter?

It seems to me, that I would be just as far ahead to just frequently buy
new Blizzaks or equivalent.

How quickly did your last set of winter tires wear out? I would assume
it should last at least 2-3 years. If you're wearing them out in one
year, then you might as well go with the winter tires all year round and
buy another set next winter. And then you should question your driving
style that you wear out tires in one year.

However, if it's a standard 2 or 3 year winter tire cycle, then you
should buy two sets one for winter and one for summer. The winter tires
won't last 2-3 years unless you take them off every spring.

Yousuf Khan

 

[Tim Conway]

How quickly did your last set of winter tires wear out? I would assume it
should last at least 2-3 years. If you're wearing them out in one year,
then you might as well go with the winter tires all year round and buy
another set next winter. And then you should question your driving style
that you wear out tires in one year.

However, if it's a standard 2 or 3 year winter tire cycle, then you should
buy two sets one for winter and one for summer. The winter tires won't
last 2-3 years unless you take them off every spring.

The Blizzaks lasted about a year and a half and about 22K miles. The Triple
Treds are still going strong after 5 years and 42K miles. I can't afford
two sets of tires so it looks like I"ll have to go with another set of
Triple Treds or something similar. Thanks for your help.

 

[AD]

 No personal experience, but the Nokian WR or WRG2 are highly rated -
and if they are anything like Nokian's Hakkapeliita Snows, you won't
be disappointed. The WR and WRG2 are rated as "adequate" in snow, and

Nokian thoughtfully omitted Hakkapeliita from the WR and WRG2 model
names.
I bet they are highly rated by people who have snowless winter.

very good in both wet and dry.  The Assurance TripleTread gets a good
rating too.

I'm running Goodyear Eagles on my PT Cruiser as my 3 season tires,

there are a lot of eagle models in goodyear lineup: and they are
hardly all the same

with Dunlop Graspics for the winter - and the Eagles are by far the
best tire I've ever owned for wet traction and dry traction on hot
pavement. They grip like they have claws.  FAR better than the Tiger
Paw Touring tires I threw away with 75% tread left. Those things felt
like I was on ball bearings any time I touched the accellerator or
brakes - and it's NOT a Turbo!!!  Looking at the tread, I'll bet
they'd be pretty reasonable in slop as well - but not likely terribly
good in deep dry-ish snow. The Graspics have been GREAT - on

It still amazes me that people jump to conclusion on traction
looking at the tread pattern in this day and age of highly specialized
tire compounds (and winter slicks)

Loss leader tire manufacturers are preying on this feature of the tire
buying populace like there is no tomorrow.

I assure you even bald tires grip very differently even in mud let
alone
on ice and snow depending on the tire model (tire compound used).

 

[clare]

Nokian thoughtfully omitted Hakkapeliita from the WR and WRG2 model
names.
I bet they are highly rated by people who have snowless winter.


there are a lot of eagle models in goodyear lineup: and they are
hardly all the same

The is CURRERNTLY only ONE Eagle GT (did I omit the GT in the last
post? I'm sure I specified it in my first post) - and it is better
than the perevious Eagle GT and Eagle GT1 tires.

It still amazes me that people jump to conclusion on traction
looking at the tread pattern in this day and age of highly specialized
tire compounds (and winter slicks)

There is a LOT you can tell looking at a tread - like can it clear
itself or will it pack full - that you learn from years in the
business. Traction on wet surfaces and ice are harder to tell bey
looking - unless you look REAL close at the micro-sipes etc.

Loss leader tire manufacturers are preying on this feature of the tire
buying populace like there is no tomorrow.

I assure you even bald tires grip very differently even in mud let
alone
on ice and snow depending on the tire model (tire compound used).

Except when bald, there is no tread compound left.

 

[Tim Conway]

The is CURRERNTLY only ONE Eagle GT (did I omit the GT in the last
post? I'm sure I specified it in my first post) - and it is better
than the perevious Eagle GT and Eagle GT1 tires.

There is a LOT you can tell looking at a tread - like can it clear
itself or will it pack full - that you learn from years in the
business. Traction on wet surfaces and ice are harder to tell bey
looking - unless you look REAL close at the micro-sipes etc.

Except when bald, there is no tread compound left.

What's your opinion of Kumho KR21 tires? They seem to be very highly rated
on tirerack.com.

 

[clare]

What's your opinion of Kumho KR21 tires? They seem to be very highly rated
on tirerack.com.

The Kumho (Samyang) tires are quite possibly the best Asian sourced
tires on the North American market - but I'm not familiar with their
different models. Their association with Cooper hasn't hurt them.

 

[AD]

 The is CURRERNTLY only ONE Eagle GT (did I omit the GT in the last
post? I'm sure I specified it in my first post) - and it is better
than the perevious Eagle GT and Eagle GT1 tires.





There is a LOT you can tell looking at a tread - like can it clear
itself or will it pack full - that you learn from years in the

Ok, I'll have to inject more specifics.
I have Nokian Hakka i3 175 70 13 tire mounted on my rear wheel driver
(mono wheel driver, no LSD)
(i3 is a summer ultra high performance tire, not sold in the united
states)

I have Continental ContiProContact in 235 45 17 on my torsen center
diff equipped four ringed A4

It takes a while to get Hakka i3 lose traction. I had my rwd beater
nearly lying on the rear axle in
a rut full of water with clay at the bottom, It takes no effort to get
A4 stuck with contiprocontact
on level wet grass covered clay field.

ContiProContact tire has marginally more agressive treat pattern. It
does not good in
my softroading sesstion despite awdf (torsen) helping.

Now neither i3 nor contiprocontact are meant for any offroad stints.
But i3 somehow does it better
and i attribute that to the compound that grips MUCH better in wet.
Alphalt or not.

This is all subjective of course. ContiProContact is the highway all
season tire and all it's good for is to wear
slowly unless you subject it to scorching heat of a sunbelt summer, i
guess it's not fair to compare
it to UHP tire. But given offroading context and your claim of tread
importance I had to give
it a shot.

business. Traction on wet surfaces and ice are harder to tell bey
looking - unless you look REAL close at the micro-sipes etc.

I do not own a high speed camera and glass covered test facility to
record the tire
performance. I could not care less how the tread pattern looks like.
It ain't the 70s anymore.
It's important only to the engineers who design the tire and marketers
who prep the ground for the salesfolk,.

Except when bald, there is no tread compound left.

tell that to the lucky few who tried winter slicks

 

[clare]

Ok, I'll have to inject more specifics.
I have Nokian Hakka i3 175 70 13 tire mounted on my rear wheel driver
(mono wheel driver, no LSD)
(i3 is a summer ultra high performance tire, not sold in the united
states)

I have Continental ContiProContact in 235 45 17 on my torsen center
diff equipped four ringed A4

It takes a while to get Hakka i3 lose traction. I had my rwd beater
nearly lying on the rear axle in
a rut full of water with clay at the bottom, It takes no effort to get
A4 stuck with contiprocontact
on level wet grass covered clay field.

ContiProContact tire has marginally more agressive treat pattern. It
does not good in
my softroading sesstion despite awdf (torsen) helping.

Now neither i3 nor contiprocontact are meant for any offroad stints.
But i3 somehow does it better
and i attribute that to the compound that grips MUCH better in wet.
Alphalt or not.

This is all subjective of course. ContiProContact is the highway all
season tire and all it's good for is to wear
slowly unless you subject it to scorching heat of a sunbelt summer, i
guess it's not fair to compare
it to UHP tire. But given offroading context and your claim of tread
importance I had to give
it a shot.


I do not own a high speed camera and glass covered test facility to
record the tire
performance. I could not care less how the tread pattern looks like.
It ain't the 70s anymore.
It's important only to the engineers who design the tire and marketers
who prep the ground for the salesfolk,.


tell that to the lucky few who tried winter slicks

Tires DESIGNED to have no tread and "bald" tires that used to have
tread are different things, totally - and a "winter slick" might be
fantastic on ice, but would be totally useless in loose or wet snow.

 

[AD]

 Tires DESIGNED to have no tread and "bald" tires that used to have
tread are different things, totally - and a "winter slick" might be
fantastic on ice, but would be totally useless in loose or wet snow.

My point is that max and extreme(semislick) performance (and even UHPs
such as i3, about 3-4 mil of tread left) age more
gracefully than highway all seasons retaining more traction at their
end of life
than highway all seasons had when new and broken in (ContiProContact,
about 7 mil of tread left)

I haven't driven winter slicks in snow but I somehow have a feeling
the usefullness would
heavily depend on the driveline setup with all 4 wheels driven on sti
making the setup not so useless.

now on to the subject why the women in southern urop look like crap in
their late 30s/early 40s
while the age of consent is not dissimilar from that in other parts of
the world shortening their
useful "track" life :^)

invoking freud with his, of course false, theories

 

[AD]

The Blizzaks lasted about a year and a half and about 22K miles.  The Triple

As they should have.

Treds are still going strong after 5 years and 42K miles.  I can't afford
two sets of tires so it looks like I"ll have to go with another set of
Triple Treds or something similar.  Thanks for your help.

Well, I'll put it this way: lots of people can't afford a collision
insurance with a $250 dollar deductible.
Myself, being a cheapskate, I was running 1000 deductible when I had
collision coverage in the states.

Sooo, the first time you do not have that $500-1000 worth of damage
(which is far more likely on
slippery streets in winter) is when those $500 worth of winter treads
pay off.

But I understand, It's psychologically hard to part with that much
cash even after having a few winter accidents
tied to low traction.

(thinking of a way to wiggle out of paying for a set of Hakkapeliitta
7s in the coming months: $130/per tire
expense. Sadly cheaper General Arctic (studded) would be hard to find
where I live).