Electrical mysteries

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I'm posting here since I didn't see a clear place for questions in the forum line up. A few things that I would love some insight on. First, I was at the carwash today and turned the car off while getting the wash. After the was was completed, the car wouldn't start...jumped fine and took it to an auto parts store to get the battery tested. The test said the battery was good but the tech noticed some corrosion around the terminals and suggested I clean them, which I did. Now I am noticing that the driver's side control won't lower the front passenger window although the passenger side button works fine. I also seem to have lost the functionality of the feature that has the window roll completely down or up when I fully depress or lift on the window button. This mystifies me. I wouldn't think it would be a fuse since the other control works, but I'm really uncertain. Wish I would have tested it just after the carwash before cleaning to see if it was a result of disconnecting the battery or maybe some water messing something electrical up. Any tips would be welcomed!

Secondly, I have a strange issue with the engine when the car is in cold temps. It starts totally fine and idles well, but when I put it into reverse and start backing out of the garage, it will kind of lurch back. If I press the brake peddle, the engine will die. If the car is warm enough, this doesn't seem to be an issue. Tried running some fuel cleaner through but that didn't seem to do anything...would this be a fuel pump issue possibly?

Thanks for anyone who has insights to share.
 
A smart "battery testing shop" would have mentioned a battery pack at the DLC to save all previous adaptations. Then the battery can be serviced and adaptations will be saved.
Use a scan tool and save all the faults then clear them.
With the windows, try this: xxxxs://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXfAKIOxLPQ
Just put up with the drama within the childish video.
After faults are cleared, drive the car if possible so that the controllers "self adapt".
After the test, scan for codes again.
Next time, post the year, make, model, engine and transmission type.
 
A smart "battery testing shop" would have mentioned a battery pack at the DLC to save all previous adaptations. Then the battery can be serviced and adaptations will be saved.
Use a scan tool and save all the faults then clear them.
With the windows, try this: xxxxs://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXfAKIOxLPQ
Just put up with the drama within the childish video.
After faults are cleared, drive the car if possible so that the controllers "self adapt".
After the test, scan for codes again.
Next time, post the year, make, model, engine and transmission type.
This is a long time after your suggestion, but I finally got around to the window switch as it was lower on my urgency list. The video you linked to was just what I needed...a simple reset. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate it. Also, next time I will be sure to include the year, make, model, and engine information. :)
 
I'm posting here since I didn't see a clear place for questions in the forum line up. A few things that I would love some insight on. First, I was at the carwash today and turned the car off while getting the wash. After the was was completed, the car wouldn't start...jumped fine and took it to an auto parts store to get the battery tested. The test said the battery was good but the tech noticed some corrosion around the terminals and suggested I clean them, which I did. Now I am noticing that the driver's side control won't lower the front passenger window although the passenger side button works fine. I also seem to have lost the functionality of the feature that has the window roll completely down or up when I fully depress or lift on the window button. This mystifies me. I wouldn't think it would be a fuse since the other control works, but I'm really uncertain. Wish I would have tested it just after the carwash before cleaning to see if it was a result of disconnecting the battery or maybe some water messing something electrical up. Any tips would be welcomed!

Secondly, I have a strange issue with the engine when the car is in cold temps. It starts totally fine and idles well, but when I put it into reverse and start backing out of the garage, it will kind of lurch back. If I press the brake peddle, the engine will die. If the car is warm enough, this doesn't seem to be an issue. Tried running some fuel cleaner through but that didn't seem to do anything...would this be a fuel pump issue possibly?

Thanks for anyone who has insights to share.
Update...the window stuff has been fixed... thanks to Ecmbuster's tip. However, the engine is still seeming to have issues in cold weather. For more information, I have a 2015 subaru outback 2.5i automatic transmission car. There have been occasions in warm weather when it seems to nearly sputter when idling at a stoplight. The reverse issue is the worst part though especially in the winter when I want to back out of the garage that is kind of tight...already replaced the mirror once, don't want to do that again haha.

I'm thinking that this seems to be something with fuel being delivered to the engine, but I don't have any guesses beyond that. Again, thanks for any insights anyone has to share.
 
Check the brake booster for a vacuum leak and it may include a sticking EGR valve in the open position.
Replace the PCV valve and again, use a decent scan tool to capture recorded faults.
 

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