I looked for answers to this question for several minutes, but did not find this topic discussed directly.
My 2015 Forester, with 96,000 miles on it, just had the transmission misbehave, with bad hesitation and lights on the panel. I had been having some hesitation before, but did not identify it as a likely transmission problem. I guess that I am lucky that it failed within the extended warranty period. I just dropped it off at the dealer, but no diagnosis yet. I do drive it some on dirt roads, but do not tow with it. I do drive 65 miles an hour with a canoe on my roof fairly often; the mileage is noticeably reduced. I have not changed the "lifetime" fluid.
So I have some questions:
How long is the transmission likely to last after repair/rebuild?
Am I likely to get any kind of warranty with the repair, given that I will not be paying for it?
How likely is it that I would end up spending over $5000 on the transmission in the next few years? The older the car is, the less likely I am to spend serious money on it.
If the CVT fails again, should I scrap the car? I guess it would depend on the cost of the repair.......
Are the rebuilt transmissions better/upgraded relative to the original transmission? I generally think of rebuilds as having a shorter life than new.
If the transmission is going to come out of the car, is there other work that I should have done at that time?
I expect to ask the dealer the questions above.
This is of course disappointing, given that my 1996 Outback lasted for 225,000 miles with no major repairs other than the clutch? between the front and rear wheels, and was still going strong when I sold it. Obviously this has cost me a lot of faith in Subaru.
Maybe I should start looking at the RAV4 and the Honda CRV......... Or look for a manual transmission Forester. The strength of the roof rack is super important to me. It is not unusual for me to drive in a Wyoming windstorm with two 17 foot boats on the roof of the car. A member of my family is a body man, and says that the old style Subaru racks, like on my car, are super-strong, through bolted through three thicknesses of sheet metal. The Outback rack, in comparison, is garbage if you are going to carry anything bigger than skis. My concerns about rack strength are well founded. My dentist had the rack fly off his Suburban, hauling two or three kayaks, ripping holes in the roof. No one was hurt, and the boats survived. He installed large fender washers when he reinstalled the rack.
Thanks in advance,
Richard
My 2015 Forester, with 96,000 miles on it, just had the transmission misbehave, with bad hesitation and lights on the panel. I had been having some hesitation before, but did not identify it as a likely transmission problem. I guess that I am lucky that it failed within the extended warranty period. I just dropped it off at the dealer, but no diagnosis yet. I do drive it some on dirt roads, but do not tow with it. I do drive 65 miles an hour with a canoe on my roof fairly often; the mileage is noticeably reduced. I have not changed the "lifetime" fluid.
So I have some questions:
How long is the transmission likely to last after repair/rebuild?
Am I likely to get any kind of warranty with the repair, given that I will not be paying for it?
How likely is it that I would end up spending over $5000 on the transmission in the next few years? The older the car is, the less likely I am to spend serious money on it.
If the CVT fails again, should I scrap the car? I guess it would depend on the cost of the repair.......
Are the rebuilt transmissions better/upgraded relative to the original transmission? I generally think of rebuilds as having a shorter life than new.
If the transmission is going to come out of the car, is there other work that I should have done at that time?
I expect to ask the dealer the questions above.
This is of course disappointing, given that my 1996 Outback lasted for 225,000 miles with no major repairs other than the clutch? between the front and rear wheels, and was still going strong when I sold it. Obviously this has cost me a lot of faith in Subaru.
Maybe I should start looking at the RAV4 and the Honda CRV......... Or look for a manual transmission Forester. The strength of the roof rack is super important to me. It is not unusual for me to drive in a Wyoming windstorm with two 17 foot boats on the roof of the car. A member of my family is a body man, and says that the old style Subaru racks, like on my car, are super-strong, through bolted through three thicknesses of sheet metal. The Outback rack, in comparison, is garbage if you are going to carry anything bigger than skis. My concerns about rack strength are well founded. My dentist had the rack fly off his Suburban, hauling two or three kayaks, ripping holes in the roof. No one was hurt, and the boats survived. He installed large fender washers when he reinstalled the rack.
Thanks in advance,
Richard