K
Kyle.Mack
I just bought a 1997 Subaru Outback (2.5L) with 44K miles for $6200 two
weeks ago. Great deal I thought... I had it checked by a mechanic,
drove it for a while, and found it to be in great shape. Since I bought
it, I have had to have it towed to a shop twice because it stalled
after freeway driving and became undriveable. I could start it again
but every time I tried to give it gas, it would sputter and die. If I
let the engine get cold, everything returns to normal. The details to
the best of my knowledge are below. I would greatly appreciate any help
you could give me to diagnose the problem. Thanks in advance!
Incidents so far:
The car drives fine around town. Everything seems to work well until I
try to drive it at highway speeds for 10 minutes or so. The idle is
good, acceleration is good, slight lifter noise but no knocking.
Incident 1:
We had previously driven about 30 miles on the highway with no incident
and had driven on short jaunts around town with no problems. I had been
driving for twenty minutes or so and started down the freeway, after
about 5 minutes the check engine light came on. I came to a stop and
the engine started to idle roughly, like it was struggling to stay
going. I tried to accelerate from stop and the engine died. After that
I tried to start it 6 or 7 times. Each time the engine would start and
idle okay, but as soon as i pressed the accelerator the engine would
die. I tried gentle acceleration and revving it high in nuetral then
popping it quickly into drive. Each time the engine died. I let the car
sit for 30 minutes, started again, and got the same result.
I called a tow truck, which took about 45 minutes and towed it into the
shop. By the time I got it into the shop, the car basically ran fine.
The shop checked the OBDII codes and found: Knock Sensor and O2 Sensor.
I also found there were recalls for alternator and throttle body
issues, so I took it into the dealer. Neither one was defective
(according to them.) After all this, the car ran perfectly again, with
no check engine light, and I was able to drive around town for a few
days without incident.
Incident 2:
After a few days, I changed the air filter and filled up with premium
gas. Everything was running perfectly for about 30 minutes. Once again
the check engine light came on on the highway. I noticed that when I
would slow down, I got the same chugging, low idle behavior. I
continued to drive and hit some hilly sections of the highway. I
noticed that when I tried to accelerate up the hills, I would push the
peddle to the floor but the engine had very little power. After a few
seconds, the engine would "catch" and normal power would resume. During
this time, the check engine light would come on and off again
eratically. A few miles later, I got off the highway and came to a
stop. The engine chugged and died. I tried starting it a few times, but
was unable to keep the engine going. White / Blue smoke was coming from
the exhaust and there was a serious smell of gas.
I let the car sit for about an hour and tried it again...same behavior:
chugging engine, white smoke, strong smell of gas. The check engine
light was blinking as I tried to start it. I called another tow truck,
which took about 2 hours to get into the shop. By the time I got there
and started it again, there was still smoke coming from the exhaust and
the check engine light was on, but the car had noticeably improved. By
the time the shop looked at it, everything ran fine, there was no
smoke, the check engine light was off, and there were no codes.
Has anyone seen behavior like this before? The mechanic told me flat
out that he is totally confused by the problem and thinks it could be
related to the Knock Sensor, Air Flow Meter, O2 sensor, or Coolant
Sensor...I don't know even how to diagnose it, let alone fix it,
because the only way to make it happen is to drive long enough away
from home to the point that I have to tow it back.
I read online about a specific knock sensor problem that causes
hesitation, and I think this could have something to do with it, but
every piece of advice seems to be about Gary's Fix: a home built
electrical work-around that de-sensitizes the knock sensor, but I can't
find any info on it except for an outdated web page. Does anyone know
what he did?
Please, please help me!!!
Incidentally, we were supposed to drive the car up to portland this
weekend but we can't move, because we can't drive it more than a few
miles.
THANKS
weeks ago. Great deal I thought... I had it checked by a mechanic,
drove it for a while, and found it to be in great shape. Since I bought
it, I have had to have it towed to a shop twice because it stalled
after freeway driving and became undriveable. I could start it again
but every time I tried to give it gas, it would sputter and die. If I
let the engine get cold, everything returns to normal. The details to
the best of my knowledge are below. I would greatly appreciate any help
you could give me to diagnose the problem. Thanks in advance!
Incidents so far:
The car drives fine around town. Everything seems to work well until I
try to drive it at highway speeds for 10 minutes or so. The idle is
good, acceleration is good, slight lifter noise but no knocking.
Incident 1:
We had previously driven about 30 miles on the highway with no incident
and had driven on short jaunts around town with no problems. I had been
driving for twenty minutes or so and started down the freeway, after
about 5 minutes the check engine light came on. I came to a stop and
the engine started to idle roughly, like it was struggling to stay
going. I tried to accelerate from stop and the engine died. After that
I tried to start it 6 or 7 times. Each time the engine would start and
idle okay, but as soon as i pressed the accelerator the engine would
die. I tried gentle acceleration and revving it high in nuetral then
popping it quickly into drive. Each time the engine died. I let the car
sit for 30 minutes, started again, and got the same result.
I called a tow truck, which took about 45 minutes and towed it into the
shop. By the time I got it into the shop, the car basically ran fine.
The shop checked the OBDII codes and found: Knock Sensor and O2 Sensor.
I also found there were recalls for alternator and throttle body
issues, so I took it into the dealer. Neither one was defective
(according to them.) After all this, the car ran perfectly again, with
no check engine light, and I was able to drive around town for a few
days without incident.
Incident 2:
After a few days, I changed the air filter and filled up with premium
gas. Everything was running perfectly for about 30 minutes. Once again
the check engine light came on on the highway. I noticed that when I
would slow down, I got the same chugging, low idle behavior. I
continued to drive and hit some hilly sections of the highway. I
noticed that when I tried to accelerate up the hills, I would push the
peddle to the floor but the engine had very little power. After a few
seconds, the engine would "catch" and normal power would resume. During
this time, the check engine light would come on and off again
eratically. A few miles later, I got off the highway and came to a
stop. The engine chugged and died. I tried starting it a few times, but
was unable to keep the engine going. White / Blue smoke was coming from
the exhaust and there was a serious smell of gas.
I let the car sit for about an hour and tried it again...same behavior:
chugging engine, white smoke, strong smell of gas. The check engine
light was blinking as I tried to start it. I called another tow truck,
which took about 2 hours to get into the shop. By the time I got there
and started it again, there was still smoke coming from the exhaust and
the check engine light was on, but the car had noticeably improved. By
the time the shop looked at it, everything ran fine, there was no
smoke, the check engine light was off, and there were no codes.
Has anyone seen behavior like this before? The mechanic told me flat
out that he is totally confused by the problem and thinks it could be
related to the Knock Sensor, Air Flow Meter, O2 sensor, or Coolant
Sensor...I don't know even how to diagnose it, let alone fix it,
because the only way to make it happen is to drive long enough away
from home to the point that I have to tow it back.
I read online about a specific knock sensor problem that causes
hesitation, and I think this could have something to do with it, but
every piece of advice seems to be about Gary's Fix: a home built
electrical work-around that de-sensitizes the knock sensor, but I can't
find any info on it except for an outdated web page. Does anyone know
what he did?
Please, please help me!!!
Incidentally, we were supposed to drive the car up to portland this
weekend but we can't move, because we can't drive it more than a few
miles.
THANKS