Hi,
I changed the fuses for the windows and now my car won't start. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Here are the details:
When I bought my 2011 Subaru Outback, the passenger and back windows wouldn't go down. Yesterday I finally looked at the fuse box under the dash. I inspected the 2nd and 3rd fuse (P/W R,LH and P/W MAIN2) both seemed fine so I put them back in. The 29th (P/W PASS) looked a little suspicious so I replaced it. The 27th slot (P/W MAIN1) was empty so I put in a new 30A fuse. I then tested the windows and the back ones worked! Then I tried to start the car and it wouldn't turn on. I then took out the 30A from slot 27 and it still wouldn't work. I haven't heard any clicking or any noise at all when the key is turned to start.
I already tried checking the window fuses, taking out the window fuses, and key cycling, battery disconnect (20 mins), steering column lock cycling as described in this website, as well as key reprogramming. The next step that I see is probably to either get professional help or buy a professional diagnostic tool. If you have recommendations for a professional diagnostic tool that would be able to diagnose and repair Subaru immobilizer errors, please let me know.
The part I find weird is the security/immobilizer light (which is the red car with a key in it) blinks when no key is inserted and turns off when I put the key in the ignition. From what I read in the owners manual, an unauthorized key should cause the immobilizer light to turn solid. So I worry the problem is something totally different.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post and please comment if you have any ideas!
I changed the fuses for the windows and now my car won't start. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Here are the details:
When I bought my 2011 Subaru Outback, the passenger and back windows wouldn't go down. Yesterday I finally looked at the fuse box under the dash. I inspected the 2nd and 3rd fuse (P/W R,LH and P/W MAIN2) both seemed fine so I put them back in. The 29th (P/W PASS) looked a little suspicious so I replaced it. The 27th slot (P/W MAIN1) was empty so I put in a new 30A fuse. I then tested the windows and the back ones worked! Then I tried to start the car and it wouldn't turn on. I then took out the 30A from slot 27 and it still wouldn't work. I haven't heard any clicking or any noise at all when the key is turned to start.
I already tried checking the window fuses, taking out the window fuses, and key cycling, battery disconnect (20 mins), steering column lock cycling as described in this website, as well as key reprogramming. The next step that I see is probably to either get professional help or buy a professional diagnostic tool. If you have recommendations for a professional diagnostic tool that would be able to diagnose and repair Subaru immobilizer errors, please let me know.
The part I find weird is the security/immobilizer light (which is the red car with a key in it) blinks when no key is inserted and turns off when I put the key in the ignition. From what I read in the owners manual, an unauthorized key should cause the immobilizer light to turn solid. So I worry the problem is something totally different.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post and please comment if you have any ideas!