Rear Axle Removal & Rust (95 Legacy)

S

SKCS, USN

Any idea how much it will cost if a repair shop drops my rear axle and gas
tank to replace my rear brake line---but, due to excessive rust on the axle,
they might not be able to re-attach it. What are my options??

Tks....Regards, John
 
Just a thought but what about just rerouting a new line that doesn't
invovle removing the entire rear suspension?
 
Great idea.....I was told that by a buddy at work. My neighbor and I
tried.....but, the way the Subbie is set up---I cannot get access to where
the brake line ends....it appears to be up/behind the gas tank and axle.

Unless someone can share a way of doing it without removing the rear end/gas
tank?!?!

Tks...John
 
Dropping the entire rear suspension isn't the end of the world. A few
years ago I did it (XT6) using just hand tools. Took me about 2 hours to
have all of it out and out of the way. But i didn't have any rust to deal
with. I doubt if you can have someone else do this for less than $500. A
couple of cans of PB Blaster and an electric impact gun could save you a
lot of money.
 
Hi John!

Any idea how much it will cost if a repair shop drops my rear axle and gas
tank to replace my rear brake line---but, due to excessive rust on the axle,
they might not be able to re-attach it. What are my options??

The part of brake line that is routed above the gas tank, etc. is
stainless steel, and shouldn't rust. The only reason I can see to
replace this would be if it were cut or crimped as a result of an
accident. And it would have to be a pretty good one to extend damage
that far inboard. The flexible part of the line can be replaced w/o
removing anything besides the wheel and caliper, maybe not even the
caliper . . . But if you _do_ need to remove the gas tank read on.

I'm trying to visualize what it looks like under there. I seem to
recall that you can get the fuel tank out without having to disconnect
the axles or drive shaft from the rear diff. The differential is
attached to a carrier, which is then bolted to the body thru 2 rubber
bushings. I think that if you remove the nuts that retain the carrier,
the whole shebang will drop down enuf to let you slide the tank out.
Worse case if it's severely rusted, you would then have to rework the
threads on the carrier studs. If the body back there is so rusty that
the studs are unusable, the rest of the body is probably shot as well,
and I'd start looking for another ride.

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 

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