Outback Expen$ive Brake Job - Opinions Wanted Please!

Discussion in 'Subaru Outback' started by J, May 30, 2004.

  1. J

    J Guest

    We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the
    price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.

    During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed
    that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we
    drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark
    figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4
    ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.

    So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I
    basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core
    charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.
    He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to
    be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the
    brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly
    shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes
    right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state
    trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my
    wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was
    confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff
    quote I was given.

    Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the
    rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the
    front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and
    he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked
    all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as
    follows:


    Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc
    brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean
    and lubricate existing calipers $89.95

    One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23

    Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42

    Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake
    pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and
    lubircate existing calipers $89.95

    One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62

    Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92

    Check and refill all fluids (no charge)

    -----------------------------------------
    Total (with tax) $832.15


    I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and
    left. The brakes felt good on the way home.

    At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for
    40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.

    Questions to the group:

    Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?
    Should I continue to use this mechanic?
    Did I really need heavy duty rotors?
    Are pads really that expensive?
    Am I a dope?

    Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.

    J
     
    J, May 30, 2004
    #1
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  2. J

    Mark Bergman Guest

    Seems a bit, but not much, high. Your mechanic had to buy parts from a

    Subaru dealer. There are no worthwhile aftermarket brake parts for Subarus.

    Next time, when time isnot of the essence, buy your parts from

    Naticksubaru.com or send your mechanic to them. They'll sell to you for

    wholesale. Ilive in NY and I buy from them on-line regularly.

    Mark

    "J" <> wrote in message

    news:<>...

    > We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a


    > moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)


    > informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored


    > and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the


    > price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.


    >


    > During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed


    > that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we


    > drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark


    > figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4


    > ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.


    >


    > So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I


    > basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core


    > charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.


    > He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to


    > be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the


    > brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly


    > shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes


    > right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state


    > trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my


    > wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was


    > confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff


    > quote I was given.


    >


    > Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the


    > rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the


    > front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and


    > he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked


    > all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as


    > follows:


    >


    >


    > Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc


    > brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean


    > and lubricate existing calipers $89.95


    >


    > One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23


    >


    > Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42


    >


    > Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake


    > pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and


    > lubircate existing calipers $89.95


    >


    > One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62


    >


    > Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92


    >


    > Check and refill all fluids (no charge)


    >


    > -----------------------------------------


    > Total (with tax) $832.15


    >


    >


    > I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and


    > left. The brakes felt good on the way home.


    >


    > At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for


    > 40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.


    >


    > Questions to the group:


    >


    > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?


    > Should I continue to use this mechanic?


    > Did I really need heavy duty rotors?


    > Are pads really that expensive?


    > Am I a dope?


    >


    > Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.


    >


    > J




    "J" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    > moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    > informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    > and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the
    > price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.
    >
    > During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed
    > that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we
    > drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark
    > figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4
    > ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.
    >
    > So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I
    > basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core
    > charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.
    > He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to
    > be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the
    > brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly
    > shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes
    > right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state
    > trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my
    > wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was
    > confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff
    > quote I was given.
    >
    > Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the
    > rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the
    > front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and
    > he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked
    > all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as
    > follows:
    >
    >
    > Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc
    > brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean
    > and lubricate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23
    >
    > Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42
    >
    > Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake
    > pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and
    > lubircate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62
    >
    > Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92
    >
    > Check and refill all fluids (no charge)
    >
    > -----------------------------------------
    > Total (with tax) $832.15
    >
    >
    > I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and
    > left. The brakes felt good on the way home.
    >
    > At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for
    > 40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.
    >
    > Questions to the group:
    >
    > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?
    > Should I continue to use this mechanic?
    > Did I really need heavy duty rotors?
    > Are pads really that expensive?
    > Am I a dope?
    >
    > Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.
    >
    > J
     
    Mark Bergman, May 30, 2004
    #2
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  3. J

    Jkpoulos7 Guest

    >Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?

    Yes or least got some worst case prices before buying.

    >Should I continue to use this mechanic?


    If you trust him overall yes.

    >Did I really need heavy duty rotors?


    there may only be one type available at this time

    >Are pads really that expensive?

    Depends on car. Some are $10 /set others $200
    >Am I a dope?


    Just another used car buyer who got duped. I'd never pay more than $5k for a
    used car and it would be a project car that I know needs $$$ into it. I cannot
    understand who would pay more than $10k for a used car when new ones are only a
    bit more.
     
    Jkpoulos7, May 30, 2004
    #3
  4. J

    George Adams Guest

    >From: J

    >ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    >moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    >informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    >and seller implied he had been estimated $300.


    First of all, the car was not well maintained if the brakes were completely
    shot at 42,000. Either that or the mileage wasn't right. Sounds to me like the
    car was "rode hard and put away wet", and if I were you, I'd be waiting for the
    next problem to show up? Did the previous owner have the first level III
    service done at 30,000? If so, why were'nt the brakes done then, before the
    damage got any worse.

    Sorry, my friend, but I think you got took.


    George Adams

    "All good fishermen stay young until they die, for fishing is the only dream of
    youth that doth not grow stale with age."
    ---- J.W Muller
     
    George Adams, May 30, 2004
    #4
  5. J

    Jim Stewart Guest

    George Adams wrote:
    >>From: J

    >
    >
    >>ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    >>moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    >>informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    >>and seller implied he had been estimated $300.

    >
    >
    > First of all, the car was not well maintained if the brakes were completely
    > shot at 42,000. Either that or the mileage wasn't right. Sounds to me like the
    > car was "rode hard and put away wet", and if I were you, I'd be waiting for the
    > next problem to show up? Did the previous owner have the first level III
    > service done at 30,000? If so, why were'nt the brakes done then, before the
    > damage got any worse.


    My reaction as well. As I've stated a couple
    times before, I did my fronts at 40k and found
    the rotors perfect and 1/3 the pad gone, 2/3
    remaining. Now I live in a flat area and I
    drive reasonably. I have a stick and I use
    compression braking a lot. So maybe I'm not
    an average owner.
     
    Jim Stewart, May 30, 2004
    #5
  6. J

    DAW Guest

    Do you live on the same planet I do?

    "Jkpoulos7" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > >Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?

    >
    > Yes or least got some worst case prices before buying.
    >
    > >Should I continue to use this mechanic?

    >
    > If you trust him overall yes.
    >
    > >Did I really need heavy duty rotors?

    >
    > there may only be one type available at this time
    >
    > >Are pads really that expensive?

    > Depends on car. Some are $10 /set others $200
    > >Am I a dope?

    >
    > Just another used car buyer who got duped. I'd never pay more than $5k for

    a
    > used car and it would be a project car that I know needs $$$ into it. I

    cannot
    > understand who would pay more than $10k for a used car when new ones are

    only a
    > bit more.
    >
    >
     
    DAW, May 30, 2004
    #6
  7. J <> writes:

    > The bill was as follows:


    Here is my brake bill for 97 OBW @ 91K miles done by "trusted"
    Suby Specialties in Monrovia, CA, using genuine Subaru parts:

    Per axle:
    Pads $95.95
    R&R and machine rotors: $84.00
    Replace pads: $56.00

    For a total of $472 (before tax).

    > Are pads really that expensive?


    Looks like it.
    For comparison, non-subaru pads range from $28 to
    $70 on the web. The rotors for $33 to $66 ...

    Cheers,
    --
    In order to understand recursion you must first understand recursion.
    Remove /-nsp/ for email.
     
    Paul Pluzhnikov, May 30, 2004
    #7
  8. J

    TG Guest

    Check NAPA, rotors for under $50 each and ceramic pads well priced. TG

    "J" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    > moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    > informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    > and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the
    > price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.
    >
    > During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed
    > that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we
    > drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark
    > figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4
    > ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.
    >
    > So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I
    > basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core
    > charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.
    > He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to
    > be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the
    > brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly
    > shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes
    > right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state
    > trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my
    > wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was
    > confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff
    > quote I was given.
    >
    > Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the
    > rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the
    > front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and
    > he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked
    > all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as
    > follows:
    >
    >
    > Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc
    > brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean
    > and lubricate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23
    >
    > Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42
    >
    > Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake
    > pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and
    > lubircate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62
    >
    > Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92
    >
    > Check and refill all fluids (no charge)
    >
    > -----------------------------------------
    > Total (with tax) $832.15
    >
    >
    > I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and
    > left. The brakes felt good on the way home.
    >
    > At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for
    > 40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.
    >
    > Questions to the group:
    >
    > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?
    > Should I continue to use this mechanic?
    > Did I really need heavy duty rotors?
    > Are pads really that expensive?
    > Am I a dope?
    >
    > Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.
    >
    > J
     
    TG, May 31, 2004
    #8
  9. J

    alex3324 Guest

    It doesn't matter what the consumer's over-the-counter price is. You'renot
    buying the parts, the mechanic is. It seems your mechanic charged the
    full retail MSRP for the replacement parts. Very common in the auto
    repair industry. Unless you can do the work yourself, you are at the mercy
    of the mechanic and the prices he charges. One question to ask the
    mechanic before replacing the rotors is: can they be machined? Were they
    at or below the minimum thickness? At 42k miles, they would probebly be
    near the wear-limit, but since the rear brakes weren't working properly,
    the rotors might still have been serviceable. Ahh hindsight.

    Alex
     
    alex3324, May 31, 2004
    #9
  10. J

    Todd H. Guest

    J <> writes:

    > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K
    > miles?


    It is an indicator that the previous owner wasn't terriby ginger with
    the vehicle. However, late model subaru's are damned hard to find, so
    your pickings are typically pretty slim and it's a tradeoff.

    As a result of this slim pickings phenomenon, I ended up purchasing
    new.

    > Are pads really that expensive?


    I paid about $30 for a pair of front pads for my vehicle recently at
    an AutoZone. They seem to be working fine.

    Sorry to hear of your story. Looks like you did pay a pretty penny,
    but given that you'd gotten a car with brakes in that bad a shape, you
    weren't exactly in a great position to drive around and get a lot of
    prices.

    Don't beat yourself up. Enjoy the car, and remember that brake job is
    just 2 car payments, and hopefully you saved more than $800 buying
    late model used than getting a new one. Wrap yourself up in the "used
    late model Subes are a bitch to find," and go on with life. :)

    Best Regards,
    --
    Todd H.
    2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
    Chicago, Illinois USA
     
    Todd H., Jun 1, 2004
    #10
  11. J

    Leon Li Guest

    It is not that bad, I bought a pair of rotor + pads from Pepsboy for $169
    (front), a comparable job done by the same place costed me $350 (rear). You
    had front and rear done and used OEM parts. A couple of years ago, subaru
    dealer did a rear brake job for me for $600 (pad, rotors, fluid, front valve
    cover gasket, etc).

    Repair shop does not shop around, I had a starter replacement quoted by
    dealer for $300+ dollar (new), but a rebuilt one can be found at $80. I
    ended up did it myself.

    Maybe you should get a quote first before authorizing the job, if the parts
    costs are too high, see if they allow you bringing in your own parts.

    "J" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    > moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    > informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    > and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the
    > price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.
    >
    > During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed
    > that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we
    > drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark
    > figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4
    > ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.
    >
    > So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I
    > basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core
    > charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.
    > He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to
    > be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the
    > brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly
    > shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes
    > right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state
    > trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my
    > wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was
    > confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff
    > quote I was given.
    >
    > Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the
    > rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the
    > front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and
    > he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked
    > all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as
    > follows:
    >
    >
    > Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc
    > brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean
    > and lubricate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23
    >
    > Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42
    >
    > Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake
    > pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and
    > lubircate existing calipers $89.95
    >
    > One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62
    >
    > Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92
    >
    > Check and refill all fluids (no charge)
    >
    > -----------------------------------------
    > Total (with tax) $832.15
    >
    >
    > I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and
    > left. The brakes felt good on the way home.
    >
    > At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for
    > 40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.
    >
    > Questions to the group:
    >
    > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?
    > Should I continue to use this mechanic?
    > Did I really need heavy duty rotors?
    > Are pads really that expensive?
    > Am I a dope?
    >
    > Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.
    >
    > J
     
    Leon Li, Jun 1, 2004
    #11
  12. J

    Don@NoSpam Guest

    Seems to me the a 2000 OB would have still been under factory warrantee
    with only 42K miles. ??? I bought a '97 OB in 1999 and the "ole slap"
    started 2 years later at 49K miles. Idaho dealer put in a short block
    at no cost to me.

    FWIW: After a '84 BMW brake experience in 1986 I feel I've learned that only
    OEM should be used. At 40K the disks were warped from heavy thoughtless use
    (owner a lawyer) so bought cheap. Those new disks warped almost immediately.
    OEM brakes were still good 4 years later when I sold the car at 110K miles;
    and the car would still pulldown quickly from 110mph with no fade.

    One motto is: Replace fluid every 2 years, NEVER use brake fluid from old can!
    Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs water, that water in the fluid will
    boil under heavy use and brakes will fade badly! Plus, it can rust pistons
    inside the calipers and elsewhere. Been there, done that on '68 Porsche that
    was poorly maintained!

    Don


    TG wrote:
    >
    > Check NAPA, rotors for under $50 each and ceramic pads well priced. TG
    >
    > "J" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > We bought a 2000 Outback a week ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    > > moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    > > informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    > > and seller implied he had been estimated $300. We took that off the
    > > price and bought the vehicle. We live in the Boston area.
    > >
    > > During an oil change and state inspection yesterday, we were informed
    > > that the brakes were "very bad -- almost metal on metal" and if we
    > > drove it much more the calipers would be eaten. I asked for a ballpark
    > > figure and was told $110 each for four rotors, $100 for a set of 4
    > > ceramic pads, about 180 for labor. Ouch.
    > >
    > > So I took it to the mechanic I have used for the last few years. I
    > > basically trust him but he's pulled a few things (keeping the core
    > > charge even though he also keeps the parts) to make me a bit wary.
    > > He's given me a good price on some other things, though, and seems to
    > > be thorough. He put it on the lift right away and confirmed that the
    > > brakes were extremely bad and the rear rotors could even possibly
    > > shatter during sudden, emergency braking. He offered to do the brakes
    > > right there and then, and with the holiday weekend and an out-of-state
    > > trip coming up, I agreed. As far as "saving money," I said that my
    > > wife would be driving the car and it had to be safe. But I was
    > > confident that the total would be less than the first off-the-cuff
    > > quote I was given.
    > >
    > > Less than two hours later all was complete and I went in. He said the
    > > rear pistons had been "frozen" so we were basically only using the
    > > front brakes. I asked whether the new rotors were genuine Subaru and
    > > he said yes. Said he used semi-metallic pads. Also said he had checked
    > > all fluids and found low oil in the rear differential. The bill was as
    > > follows:
    > >
    > >
    > > Basic front disc brake job includes installation of new front disc
    > > brake pads, shims, two new front disc brake rotors and press, clean
    > > and lubricate existing calipers $89.95
    > >
    > > One new set of front disc brake pads and shims $66.23
    > >
    > > Two new front disc brake heavy duty rotors $246.42
    > >
    > > Basic rear disc brake job includes installation of new rear disc brake
    > > pads, shims, two new rear disc brake rotors and oress, clean and
    > > lubircate existing calipers $89.95
    > >
    > > One new set of rear brake pads and shims $67.62
    > >
    > > Two new rear brake heavy duty rotors $240.92
    > >
    > > Check and refill all fluids (no charge)
    > >
    > > -----------------------------------------
    > > Total (with tax) $832.15
    > >
    > >
    > > I felt a bit like a sucker but what's done was done and I paid and
    > > left. The brakes felt good on the way home.
    > >
    > > At home I did some searching online and see aftermarket rotors for
    > > 40-80 bucks. So I feel like maybe I didn't do my homework on this one.
    > >
    > > Questions to the group:
    > >
    > > Should I have shied away from a car with four bad rotors at 42K miles?
    > > Should I continue to use this mechanic?
    > > Did I really need heavy duty rotors?
    > > Are pads really that expensive?
    > > Am I a dope?
    > >
    > > Thank you for any and all educated opinions provided.
    > >
    > > J

    Username munged by FixNews


     
    Don@NoSpam, Jun 1, 2004
    #12
  13. J

    Todd H. Guest

    Don@NoSpam writes:

    > Seems to me the a 2000 OB would have still been under factory warrantee
    > with only 42K miles. ???


    Powertrain and emissions onlky at that point.

    > I bought a '97 OB in 1999 and the "ole slap" started 2 years later
    > at 49K miles. Idaho dealer put in a short block at no cost to me.


    Likely cus the engine is part of the the powertrain. :)

    --
    Todd H.
    2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
    Chicago, Illinois USA
     
    Todd H., Jun 1, 2004
    #13
  14. On 30 May 2004 16:56:41 GMT, unk (George Adams) wrote:

    >First of all, the car was not well maintained if the brakes were completely
    >shot at 42,000. Either that or the mileage wasn't right. Sounds to me like the
    >car was "rode hard and put away wet", and if I were you, I'd be waiting for the
    >next problem to show up? Did the previous owner have the first level III
    >service done at 30,000? If so, why were'nt the brakes done then, before the
    >damage got any worse.


    I agree. However, badly worn brakes at an unexpectedly young age isn't unusual
    with used Subarus, not (as far as I know) because of any design flaws in the
    car, but because people drive them harder than they do some Toyota or Honda.
    AWD, low center of gravity, and somewhat more powerful engines can tempt a
    driver to see what the car will do, again and again. <G> (Yes, I am speaking
    from experience.)

    I bought mine four years ago -- a 1998 Outback Sport with just over 30k miles on
    it. The brakes were squeaking so much that I asked the dealer that had sold it
    to me to take a look. It turned out that they were badly worn, although not
    nearly to the level that this user reported. The dealer, fortunately, was
    embarrassed that they hadn't spotted and fixed the breaks before selling it to
    me. So I got the brake job for free, and it was a good one -- the new brakes
    lasted about 40,000 miles before I had to get them redone.

    >Sorry, my friend, but I think you got took.


    I agree. I've bought used cars all my life, but nowadays insist on taking any
    car I am seriously considering to an independent diagnostic/test center for a
    full test before I will sign the papers. The $100 or so that the center charges
    me is money well spent -- I know *everything* about that car before I sign on
    the dotted line.



    --
    Catherine Hampton <>
    Home Page * <http://www.devsite.org/>
    The SpamBouncer * <http://www.spambouncer.org/>

    (Please use this address for replies -- the address in my header is a
    spam trap.)
     
    Catherine Hampton, Jun 1, 2004
    #14
  15. In article <>,
    Jim Stewart <> wrote:
    >George Adams wrote:
    >>>From: J

    >>
    >>
    >>>ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    >>>moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    >>>informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    >>>and seller implied he had been estimated $300.

    >>
    >>
    >> First of all, the car was not well maintained if the brakes were completely
    >> shot at 42,000. Either that or the mileage wasn't right. Sounds to me like the
    >> car was "rode hard and put away wet", and if I were you, I'd be waiting for the
    >> next problem to show up? Did the previous owner have the first level III
    >> service done at 30,000? If so, why were'nt the brakes done then, before the
    >> damage got any worse.

    >
    >My reaction as well. As I've stated a couple
    >times before, I did my fronts at 40k and found
    >the rotors perfect and 1/3 the pad gone, 2/3
    >remaining. Now I live in a flat area and I
    >drive reasonably. I have a stick and I use
    >compression braking a lot. So maybe I'm not
    >an average owner.


    Interesting. Sounds a lot like me -- standard transmission, flat area,
    vanilla driving. It is my third Subaru. But the 2000 Legacy wagon, with
    49K miles on it, had very bad front brakes and the rear brakes had to
    be "resurfaced". Cost: ~$600 (US).

    I take the car in every 7,500 miles and get the "usual" done as well
    as the "specials" at 15K and 30K. Can't see how much more maintenance
    one can give. And, it is the first time in 20 years of Subaru driving
    that I have had to deal with the brakes, at all.
    --

    Surendar Jeyadev

    Remove 'bounceback' for email address
     
    Surendar Jeyadev, Jun 1, 2004
    #15
  16. J

    JW Guest

    On 30 May 2004 16:56:41 GMT, George Adams <> wrote:

    >> From: J

    >
    >> ago. Clean, maintained, etc. with a
    >> moderate 42,000 miles. Trustworthy seller (as well as a test drive)
    >> informed us the brakes were in need of repair -- rotors were scored
    >> and seller implied he had been estimated $300.

    >
    > First of all, the car was not well maintained if the brakes were
    > completely
    > shot at 42,000. Either that or the mileage wasn't right. Sounds to me
    > like the
    > car was "rode hard and put away wet", and if I were you, I'd be waiting
    > for the
    > next problem to show up? Did the previous owner have the first level III
    > service done at 30,000? If so, why were'nt the brakes done then, before
    > the
    > damage got any worse.
    >


    Some folk think the best place to rest their left foot while driving is
    the brake pedal! Subaru actually MAKES a fine place just to the left of
    the brake pedal to rest your left foot! You'll then find your brakes
    lasting a LOT longer! I replaced my half worn brake pads on my 85 Turbo
    XT a 100,000 miles just cause I wanted them to be new then! I did not
    need rotors at the time. I replaced them again at 200,000 but again they
    didn't need it and the rotors still looked and acted brand new. At
    300,000 I took the brake pads out but just put them back in again. At
    400,000, I put back in the pads I took out at 200,000. I have about 3,000
    miles left to go to 500,000 but the rotors still look very good.

    --
    73 de N7PSV aka JW <n><
    http://members.hscis.net/~jolson
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/the_original_inner_circle
     
    JW, Jun 2, 2004
    #16
  17. J

    L. Kreh Guest

    I have no idea how the car was driven to comment whether you should
    have shied away from it. As far as what you paid, I'd say you were
    foolish not to have the work done at a dealer for that price. I had
    the rotors and pads replaced on my 99 OBW at a dealer last year (with
    Subaru parts) and it cost me only about $50 more than you paid.
     
    L. Kreh, Jun 3, 2004
    #17
  18. For all the parts and labor you required that does not seem out of line.
    I had a similar experience with a 1999 Impreza RS 2.5. If it had been
    caught earlier and the rotors had not been scored you would have been
    able to resurface them, rather than replace them, and saved a bunch.
    Subaru parts are also expensive. Don't expect to pay Chevy prices for
    them, more like Porsche prices. Subaru also seems to do little to
    encourage the after market manufactures to produce alternatives to the
    dealer supplied parts, no competition means you pay more. In my case I
    had the work done at a brand name brake specialist. Even they were
    surprised to find that they had to get the parts from a Subaru dealer
    rather than being able to get them from their suppliers. They were also
    a little dismayed at the price of the parts because it was their policy
    to lifetime warranty the pads as well. What they also found on my car
    was that the brake pads had stuck or jammed in the calipers rather that
    the pistons seizing which is usually the case when you experience
    premature brake wear. Even when they tried to instal the new pads they
    found that they did not float as freely as they should so they ground
    them down a little to ensure they did not stick again. I live in a cold
    climate where road salt is used and they felt that the design of the
    Subaru calipers made them susceptible to sticking. They encouraged me to
    take advantage of their policy of providing free annual break
    inspections to prevent this in the future. Maybe there is a brand name
    outlet in your area that does the same.
     
    H. Daniel Chesney, Jul 23, 2004
    #18
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