Nessecary Brake Fluid Flush?

[JohnO]

The only odd thing I can remember is that
the front and back bleeder valves take
different sized wrenches.

Good, and thanks.

 

[Edward Hayes]

There is a preferred flushing / bleeding sequence and it is::
RF>LR>LF>RR. Rational is that there is less chance of contaminated
fluid being pushed into another brake line.

 

[Rick Courtright]

At least TWO testing methods that can be done right in the shop are
mentioned, test strips and an electronic device.

Hi,

Interesting info--thanks for finding it! I imagine those tests at least
keep the owner in a "safe" level of performance.

However, as Jim and others noted, there can be a big buildup of "crud"
in the cylinder/piston assy's, and the test doesn't address that. Having
pulled down some pretty nasty, rusted and/or frozen pieces in the past,
I always feel better after I "waste" a few bucks and renew my brake
fluid every coupla years...

I've experienced a failure such as Ed describes, and it's not a good
feeling. Fortunately, it wasn't, in his words, THE END. But it coulda
been. Brake fluid, like clean oil, is cheap insurance.

Rick

 

[CompUser]

@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>,
(e-mail address removed) says...

BoB wrote:
Most shops would gladly do useless but requested services, like draining
and refilling your tire air, if you are willing to pay the shop hourly
rate. <G>

OMG, stop!! You'll be giving them ideas.

 

[Bonehenge]

@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>,
(e-mail address removed) says...



OMG, stop!! You'll be giving them ideas.

I save money by rotating my air at home.

I drain each tire into a portable air tank and reinstall the air in a
different tire.

Try it, it'll keep that new car feeling!

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

I save money by rotating my air at home.

I drain each tire into a portable air tank and reinstall the air in a
different tire.

Try it, it'll keep that new car feeling!

I get better mileage by filling them with helium. Makes the car lighter.

;^)


Carl

 

[BoB]

Lo and behold! Google is my friend!

This page:
<http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm>
contains a wealth of information aimed right at our topic.

At least TWO testing methods that can be done right in the shop are
mentioned, test strips and an electronic device.

Maybe someone's found a reputable shop? <G>

Appreciate the wealth of info!

Google never came to mind.

Will ID which test they use at the next oil change but I believe
I recall them mentioning a strip test, as mentioned in on that page.

Since I live in Arizona we probably have less moisture control
problems than mid-west owners. This may be why the shop has gone to
testing.

BoB

 

[Al]

I get better mileage by filling them with helium. Makes the car lighter.

;^)


Carl

Hah, you now can pay at many filling stations to fill your tires with
pure nitrogen. It supposedly reduces leakage as there is no oxygen in
the tire to damage the rubber and thus the seals do not go bad. Also
there may be something to do with the density.

So, it's not such a way out idea.

Al

 

[Bonehenge]

Hope I wasn't wasting air my way...

I can sell you a special, custom device to do it right!

 

[Rick Courtright]

I save money by rotating my air at home.

I drain each tire into a portable air tank and reinstall the air in a
different tire.

Hi,

I've been rotating my air for years, but I guess I wasn't doing it
right. I'd drain one tire, then use a hose setup to move the air from
one tire to another, finishing by filling the now empty spare with fresh
air (only works w/ full sized spares, not the donuts.) Kinda like
changing an oil filter w/o doing a complete oil change, so you're only
adding a bit of fresh oil to top up.

Hope I wasn't wasting air my way...

Rick

 

[tom klein]

Hey all,

I noticed on the 90k service leaflet given out by the local dealership,
that it says a brake fluid flush every 30k miles is required. Is this
true or false? I checked my resovoirs and the fluid is a light amber
color with no dirty chunks, no signs of water in the lines, and the
brakes are working fine. I take it this isn't needed??

Advice, thoughts, opinions?

Brad

an old fleet manager once explained to me that european and japanese
manufacturers rely on conditioners in the brake fluid to keep the
rubber parts of the brake system flexible. so you have a choice,
either replace the brake fluid according to the maintenance schedule,
or replace all the rubber parts early - his policy was to flush the
brake fluid.

 

[Edward Hayes]

This has been discussed 1000s of times. Read your manual and do as the
manufacture recommends or gamble on the cost of not doing it.