Camshaft oil seals 2.5L

[Ed P]

I am in the process of replacing my timing belt and water pump on my '96
Legacy Outback 2.5L. I had intended to replace the camshaft oil seals
as a precaution but whereas the Haynes manual says you can hold the cam
sprockets with a pair of large channel-lock pliers while loosening the
sprocket bolt it looks as if a special tool is needed.

The cam sprockets appear to be plastic. All four have approx. a 2½" hex
head molded into the face but on the driver's side the face of the
sprocket is recessed so using pliers seems to be out of the question.
The manual warns against trying to hold the sprocket with the timing belt.

Does anyone have any experience with gettng the cam sprockets off?

Ed P

 

[ed]

Careful!! You have the DOHC engine, if the valve spring tension rotates the
cam when you remove the belt, it can bend valves, and you then have an
expensive job on your hands. You need a locking tool that fits in the hex,
and then you "unload" the spring tension on the cam with the tool, at which
point you can remove the cams. On re-assembly, you need to load the cam, and
lock it with the tool, and remove it only once the belt is back on and
preventing the cams from moving independent of each other. Only one of the
cams is loaded, you need to carefully follow the instructions in the service
manual to avoid the "sinking feeling" syndrome (had in on several
occassions, not a fun place to be!).
Channel locks have no place in this repair, I don't think you could even
hold the sproket tight enough to remove the bolt with them. Certainly a
poor, poor procedure on Haynes part.

Ed B

 

[Danny Russell]

I am in the process of replacing my timing belt and water pump on my '96
Legacy Outback 2.5L. I had intended to replace the camshaft oil seals
as a precaution but whereas the Haynes manual says you can hold the cam
sprockets with a pair of large channel-lock pliers while loosening the
sprocket bolt it looks as if a special tool is needed.

The cam sprockets appear to be plastic. All four have approx. a 2½" hex
head molded into the face but on the driver's side the face of the
sprocket is recessed so using pliers seems to be out of the question.
The manual warns against trying to hold the sprocket with the timing belt.

Does anyone have any experience with gettng the cam sprockets off?

On my 2.2 W/ 5-manual I held engine rotation with a tool jammed into the flywheel teeth through the
opening at the top of the housing, then loosened the cam sprocket bolts with just the timing belt
holding them, but this might not work if the bolts are rusted in. I think most folks use a strap
wrench to hold the sprockets. -Danny

 

[ed]

On my 2.2 W/ 5-manual I held engine rotation with a tool jammed into the flywheel teeth through the
opening at the top of the housing, then loosened the cam sprocket bolts with just the timing belt
holding them, but this might not work if the bolts are rusted in. I think most folks use a strap
wrench to hold the sprockets. -Danny

This would work for loosening the sproket bolts, since you would be changing
the belt, but you would not want to strain the new belt when tightening the
bolts back on. Certainly, a strap wrench would be better.

Ed B