2000 Outback My$tery Transmi$$ion Problem$

L

Lotta Gale

Oh Boy....am I glad I happened upon this group, whose members seem very
knowlegeable and generous. If anyone has the time to comment on my
situation, I'll be very grateful. Here's the scoop, and I apologoze
ahead of time for being rather long-winded about it:

Brother GIVES me 2000 Outback wagon (92Kmiles) in October so that I may
help Mom move from NY to Iowa. WOW, that is SOOO NICE, Steve! Thanks!!
Except for a few minor funky details (which I can live with), the car
seems to be really, really great, my idea of a dream ride. The CEL is
always illuminated, but Steve says "No prob., it's always like that"...

Okay. I change the oil, get new tires, pack Mom, her boxes, and the dog
and off we go, taking the beautiful back roads through Ohio, Indiana
and Illinois. I notice during the drive that sometimes the engine lags
a bit when changing from 1st gear to 2nd, but car's still new-ish to me
so I don't know if it's a big deal or not.

Then, since arriving in Des Moines, 2 or 3 times the car has just
"slipped" (?) from drive into neutral, and back into drive again....
Hmmm. It isn't really that weird until it does so on a slight hill and
the car just starts rolling backwards. You can probably tell, I am NOT
a car expert, (having only owned 2 used ones in my lifetime), but
that's when I realize perhaps I'd better get this one to a mechanic.

A relative sends me to her "very reliable" garage. They check the
transmission fluids and find them to be fresh and clean. They also
discover the following by means of the computer diagnosis:
PO 325, PO420, PO113

Jeff the mechanic says it could run me 900.00 to have thse things
repaired, but I learn from your site that some of these codes might (?)
be simply caused by me not screwing the gas cap on tightly enough (I
did not get a manual with the car...), or, that they might indicate
situations that are not too dire. Okay. anyway, for now, none of these
problems get deeply investigated since we're focusing on the
Transmission situation and the car is now sent on to a transmission
specialist.
His report is not encouraging: I "might" need a new "Low Gear Timing
Solanoid" replacement - (is that what it's called?) to the tune of
$1200.00. They aren't sure though, because they couldn't really look in
depth...(?) "No, It might NOT be that, but something else with the
transmission that could cost up to $3000.00"
!!!! Jeff, my liason mechanic, the original guy who sent it to the
tran.place for me, says now, "If I were you, I'd just trade this one in
and get something else".

Oh. Wow. I'm shocked out of my mind, but maintain my composure.
So, I pay the guys for their initial troubles and take the car away
with me so I can use it over the long weekend and reflect upon its
future.

I'm supposed to drive to Florida at the end of next week and have NO
IDEA if I'm being led down the garden path here.Would it be worth it to
(borrow the $ and) have it repaired? I really thought this would be a
great car for few years... I got it for free, so if I needed to invest
in some repairs, might I still be coming out ahead, as opposed to
buying anouther used car? Do these proposed prices sound reasonable? If
the car is such a loss, how could I trade it in?
Thanks for any help anyone has to offer.
 
Lotta said:
Oh Boy....am I glad I happened upon this group, whose members seem very
knowlegeable and generous. If anyone has the time to comment on my
situation, I'll be very grateful. Here's the scoop, and I apologoze
ahead of time for being rather long-winded about it:

Brother GIVES me 2000 Outback wagon (92Kmiles) in October so that I may
help Mom move from NY to Iowa. WOW, that is SOOO NICE, Steve! Thanks!!
Except for a few minor funky details (which I can live with), the car
seems to be really, really great, my idea of a dream ride. The CEL is
always illuminated, but Steve says "No prob., it's always like that"...

Okay. I change the oil, get new tires, pack Mom, her boxes, and the dog
and off we go, taking the beautiful back roads through Ohio, Indiana
and Illinois. I notice during the drive that sometimes the engine lags
a bit when changing from 1st gear to 2nd, but car's still new-ish to me
so I don't know if it's a big deal or not.

Then, since arriving in Des Moines, 2 or 3 times the car has just
"slipped" (?) from drive into neutral, and back into drive again....
Hmmm. It isn't really that weird until it does so on a slight hill and
the car just starts rolling backwards. You can probably tell, I am NOT
a car expert, (having only owned 2 used ones in my lifetime), but
that's when I realize perhaps I'd better get this one to a mechanic.

A relative sends me to her "very reliable" garage. They check the
transmission fluids and find them to be fresh and clean. They also
discover the following by means of the computer diagnosis:
PO 325, PO420, PO113

Jeff the mechanic says it could run me 900.00 to have thse things
repaired, but I learn from your site that some of these codes might (?)
be simply caused by me not screwing the gas cap on tightly enough (I
did not get a manual with the car...), or, that they might indicate
situations that are not too dire. Okay. anyway, for now, none of these
problems get deeply investigated since we're focusing on the
Transmission situation and the car is now sent on to a transmission
specialist.
His report is not encouraging: I "might" need a new "Low Gear Timing
Solanoid" replacement - (is that what it's called?) to the tune of
$1200.00. They aren't sure though, because they couldn't really look in
depth...(?) "No, It might NOT be that, but something else with the
transmission that could cost up to $3000.00"
!!!! Jeff, my liason mechanic, the original guy who sent it to the
tran.place for me, says now, "If I were you, I'd just trade this one in
and get something else".

Oh. Wow. I'm shocked out of my mind, but maintain my composure.
So, I pay the guys for their initial troubles and take the car away
with me so I can use it over the long weekend and reflect upon its
future.

I'm supposed to drive to Florida at the end of next week and have NO
IDEA if I'm being led down the garden path here.Would it be worth it to
(borrow the $ and) have it repaired? I really thought this would be a
great car for few years... I got it for free, so if I needed to invest
in some repairs, might I still be coming out ahead, as opposed to
buying anouther used car? Do these proposed prices sound reasonable? If
the car is such a loss, how could I trade it in?
Thanks for any help anyone has to offer.

Well, if there is any alternate vehicle you can use for next week's
trip,I'd use it or rent a car. Many people (not all) have had luck doing
a sequence of fluid change/refills or 1 or 2 'power flushes' of the
transmission - often with a few days of diving between to really get the
gunk cleaned off the valve seats (which the solenoids control). Use of a
'Lubegard' or other additives has been helpful for some as well. I doubt
you will have time for that routine before your trip. Often, shortcut or
'mechanic in a can'-type remedies are a waste and just delay the
inevitible - but it seems that $200 could possibly save you the $1200.
It's a risk you take with any used car. And at 92K you can expect some
sensors, like the front O2 if original, could need replacing. In 13K
more miles, you will need a timing belt change too. Do you know when the
last sparkplug change occured? any other maintenance history? And I
can't believe in would be worth much in a trade-in if the CEL is always
illuminated.
Another thing to definitely try, after comfirmoing all the tires are the
same size/brand/wear - do some slow figure eigths and tight cicles in a
parking lot. If you feel any jerkiness, that is torque bind, if it
doesn't also go away after the xmission flushes - you will definitely
benefit from a rebuilt transmission.

Carl
 
Thank you Carl for taking time to advise me.

At this point I do NOT know much of the 'Ru's maintainance history,
but will certainly try to question Steve about some of those details.

Meanwhile, Do you think the mechanic in question (or any mechanic)
would be likely to help me with the power flush option you suggested or
should I try it on my own?

Will try the figure 8s too. Yep, the tires are all equal, just put 'em
on brand new a month ago.

Thanks, will keep you posted -
 
Get a decent tire gage and be in the habit of checking your tires every so
often. Can't tell you how many new tires I've had slow leaks in from the
odd nail here and there, and you don't have to drive in the countryside to
find them.

~Brian
 
get you a bottle of lucas transmission fix... its in a white bottle and
runs $12... it will make a difference. ive used it on a chrysler a604
that was slipping bad and put 45k miles on it before it was totalled.
the shit works.... try it first... its available at autozone and
advance auto... or any car parts store
 
Lotta said:
Thank you Carl for taking time to advise me.

At this point I do NOT know much of the 'Ru's maintainance history,
but will certainly try to question Steve about some of those details.

Meanwhile, Do you think the mechanic in question (or any mechanic)
would be likely to help me with the power flush option you suggested or
should I try it on my own?

Will try the figure 8s too. Yep, the tires are all equal, just put 'em
on brand new a month ago.

Thanks, will keep you posted -

I had the impression you were minimally experienced with automotive
work. A series of 'drain and refills' is defintitely a DIY item. Get a
chilton or haynes manual for the car. Avoid mistaking the front
differential. You will only be able to drain 1/2 (I think - maybe less)
of the fluid because so much stays in the torque converter housing.
A true flush is gonna be more difficult and is likely best left to a
good mechanic.

Carl
 
Thank you Carl, you are very kind to respond.
& Thank you to the others who have suggested
1) keeping close watch on the tire pressure and
2) the lube stuff in the wine bottle (!!).

I want to learn!

Um, yes,Carl...You are right.. I would definitely not be referred to as
a DIY car owner. I've only owned 2 (used) cars in my life up 'til now,
(one was a dream, the other a nightmare...), and both were looked after
by commercial mechanics. So, a lot of what is being discussed and
written about in this group is brand new to me. But I really wanna
become more informed, so (at least) I can speak with some knowledge to
a mechanic....

And, if it's possible to learn to do some of the simple straightforward
stuff myself, I'm very willing.

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to have another pow-wow with the mechanic
and perhaps opt for the "flush" you mentioned, since I don't know if
I'll have time to do the multiple 1/2 drains you suggest I try myself.
(Need to leave by next Monday).

(Still waiting to hear from my brother about the maint. history of the
'Ru... hard boy to pin down.)

Thanks Carl. I will post any developments!
LG
 
Thank you Brian, for your suggestion;
I will keep an eye on the tires.
LG said:
Get a decent tire gage and be in the habit of checking your tires every so
often. Can't tell you how many new tires I've had slow leaks in from the
odd nail here and there, and you don't have to drive in the countryside to
find them.

~Brian
 
Thank you for your advice;
Imagine if 12.00 could prevent me from having 3,000.00 worth of
repairs!
 
try it first before fluid changes and flushes... if its gonna fix it...
youll feel it immediatly... besides if it could fix chryslers shitty
tranny.... which btw is the absolute worst transmission ever made...
then it should fix the mediocre subaru tranny.
 
Lotta said:
Thank you for your advice;
Imagine if 12.00 could prevent me from having 3,000.00 worth of
repairs!

The thing that struck me right away was what you paid for this car. If
none of the other things pan out, paying $3k for this car is still a
steal. On trade you can probably get $5-6k as-is and get a Honda or
something, but the Outback is a lot cooler. :)

just yakkin...

-John O
 
Lotta said:
Thank you Carl for taking time to advise me.

At this point I do NOT know much of the 'Ru's maintainance history,
but will certainly try to question Steve about some of those details.

Meanwhile, Do you think the mechanic in question (or any mechanic)
would be likely to help me with the power flush option you suggested or
should I try it on my own?

Doing a transmission power flush isn't a home garage option. It requires
special (read expensive) equipment and training. Most shops set up to do
this charge between $70 and $140. Surprisingly, the cheaper prices can
be found at independent transmission shops.
 

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