Outback purchase check list?

B

Brad

HI, I've owned older BMW's for years, including a high mileage 88 325 ix
(240k). I have started to look at replacing it with a 1995-99 Subaru
Outback wagon. Is there a check list out there of things I should know
about when inspection one of the cars? Any model year to stay away from
or specific problem areas of the car? I have never owned a Subaru
before, but still see 100's of them on the road. Most of the ones I see
advertised are very high mileage, what problems can one expect if I were
to purchase a cheap high mileage car. I would prefer a manual but are
Subaru automatics dependable? Thanks for any help.

Brad
 
Brad said:
HI, I've owned older BMW's for years, including a high mileage 88 325
ix (240k). I have started to look at replacing it with a 1995-99
Subaru Outback wagon. Is there a check list out there of things I
should know about when inspection one of the cars? Any model year to
stay away from or specific problem areas of the car?

Head gaskets seem to be a common trouble spot in 2.5L engines.
 
Brad said:
HI, I've owned older BMW's for years, including a high mileage 88 325 ix
(240k). I have started to look at replacing it with a 1995-99 Subaru
Outback wagon. Is there a check list out there of things I should know
about when inspection one of the cars? Any model year to stay away from
or specific problem areas of the car? I have never owned a Subaru
before, but still see 100's of them on the road. Most of the ones I see
advertised are very high mileage, what problems can one expect if I were
to purchase a cheap high mileage car. I would prefer a manual but are
Subaru automatics dependable? Thanks for any help.

Brad

An uncomfortably high percentage of late 90s have headgasket problems.
Also, the AWD system can be damaged by improper tire use/replacement.

mentioning your city here and over at www.ultimatesubaru.org might get a
recomendation for a mechanic/dealership that could inspect the car for you.

Carl
 
Carl said:
An uncomfortably high percentage of late 90s have headgasket problems.
Also, the AWD system can be damaged by improper tire use/replacement.

mentioning your city here and over at www.ultimatesubaru.org might get a
recomendation for a mechanic/dealership that could inspect the car for you.

Carl


Thanks for the info, I test drove a 97 with auto tranny this afternoon
with 185K, car was in excellent condition, very little rust, no shimmy,
good power, brakes felt a little weak, but that might have been because
it has set on a car lot.

Brad
 
The 99 model is a poor choice because it has a one-year only engine
design. Parts for this puppy are really expensive. All the Legacys
came with the 2.2 engine which has a history of no problems. If you
can find a 96 LSi Legacy wagon you will be very pleased with it. Or
just move up to 2000 and newer models. I have owned a 95 LS
Leagcywagon for years and it has never given me any problems
whatsoever. When I finally decide to let it go it will be replaced
with either a LL Bean model or the Baja. Wife hates the Baja but so
what, she never drives my cars anyways.
 
johninky said:
The 99 model is a poor choice because it has a one-year only engine
design. Parts for this puppy are really expensive. All the Legacys
came with the 2.2 engine which has a history of no problems. If you
can find a 96 LSi Legacy wagon you will be very pleased with it. Or
just move up to 2000 and newer models.

But perhaps avoid 2000 and 2001, if the gleaming black circle on
"engine major" from Consumer Reports used car owner ratings (and my
own experience with mine) is any indicator.
 
Todd said:
But perhaps avoid 2000 and 2001, if the gleaming black circle on
"engine major" from Consumer Reports used car owner ratings (and my
own experience with mine) is any indicator.


I don't really like the styling of the 00-04 cars, now the 05 Outback XT
is really nice and is one that I am condidering also, but would have to
sell one of my Bmws to afford it.

Brad
 
The breaks on these cars feel a little squishy.

Take it out and use them hard to get a feel for what it is doing brake-wise.

DO inspect the gaskets VERY CAREFULLY (I mean, with a light, a mirror,
removing the plastic oil pan cover, etc.) Check the oil for coolant, check
the coolant for hydrocarbons with a kit. Run it to get it hot then open the
coolant overflow and look for bubbles or crud. Also find out if the owner
knows what "coolant conditioner" is, if not, don't buy the car.

Gasket replacement runs well over 2k usually to fix, so if you buy and you
have to do it, you are looking at a significant fraction of the worth of the
car.
 

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