OBW brake pad change? Tips? Complexity?

[Todd H.]

As I approach 60k mi on my 2001 Outback Wagon, my tire installer told
me that I'm in need of a front pad change. I told him that surprised
me since I hadn't heard the audible indicators. He informed me "these
pads don't have any." Evidently I need to act fast as there isn't
much pad left.

Anyhoo, I've changed pads on 2 other vehicles before and found it
simple enough.

Is there anything weird about this job on the 2000-2004 Outback
Wagons? Anything other than the pads that I need to do the job right?
Any useful special tools I should look to borrow? I hear a piston
compressor is often handy in general, but on prior jobs I was lucky
enough to be able to manually compress the piston with my thumbs.

Also, what's the consensus on machining rotors these days? I hesitate
to machine an otherwise-okay rotor for fear of the thinning leading to
warpage, but then I've also read some folks religiously advocating
turning the rotors with every pad change. What's the current
consensus with today's rotor and pad materials?

TIA for any advice! I'm not opposed to getting it professionally
done, but if it's as easy as the Saturn SL and Mazda 626 were to
replace pads, I'd rather save the money and do it myself.

Best Regards,

 

[Jim Stewart]

As I approach 60k mi on my 2001 Outback Wagon, my tire installer told
me that I'm in need of a front pad change. I told him that surprised
me since I hadn't heard the audible indicators. He informed me "these
pads don't have any." Evidently I need to act fast as there isn't
much pad left.

Anyhoo, I've changed pads on 2 other vehicles before and found it
simple enough.

Is there anything weird about this job on the 2000-2004 Outback
Wagons? Anything other than the pads that I need to do the job right?
Any useful special tools I should look to borrow? I hear a piston
compressor is often handy in general, but on prior jobs I was lucky
enough to be able to manually compress the piston with my thumbs.

Also, what's the consensus on machining rotors these days? I hesitate
to machine an otherwise-okay rotor for fear of the thinning leading to
warpage, but then I've also read some folks religiously advocating
turning the rotors with every pad change. What's the current
consensus with today's rotor and pad materials?

TIA for any advice! I'm not opposed to getting it professionally
done, but if it's as easy as the Saturn SL and Mazda 626 were to
replace pads, I'd rather save the money and do it myself.

No special tools needed. It's a straightforward
job if you've done other cars before. Don't bother
turning the rotors if they are not scored.

I strongly suggest that you flush the old fluid
when you do the change.

As a guideline, I like to change the front pads
on 40k mile intervals and the rears every other
time.

 

[TG]

Well, first I would see if they really are in need of replacement. I turn
rotors when they need it but I'm still open to other ideas. Grease the
caliper/pad contact areas where the pads will slide and when you compress
those pistons connect a one way valve type bleeder ($7 wherever toys are
sold) to the bleeder on the caliper.Might as well force the nastiest fluid
in the system out of it instead of back toward the reservoir. TG

 

[Todd H.]

No special tools needed. It's a straightforward
job if you've done other cars before. Don't bother
turning the rotors if they are not scored.

I strongly suggest that you flush the old fluid
when you do the change.

As a guideline, I like to change the front pads
on 40k mile intervals and the rears every other
time.

Hi Jim,

Thanks much for your informative reply.

Hrmm-I've not changed brake fluid before... what's involved there? I
have this vague notion that there's a way to do that rather
incorrectly. A pointer to some other reference would be great if you
have it, otherwise any level of explanation would be great so I can go
search for details as needed. Or is fluid bleeding pretty much the
same on all cars?

Thanks again for the reply!

Best Regards,

 

[Jim Stewart]

Hi Jim,

Thanks much for your informative reply.

Hrmm-I've not changed brake fluid before... what's involved there? I
have this vague notion that there's a way to do that rather
incorrectly. A pointer to some other reference would be great if you
have it, otherwise any level of explanation would be great so I can go
search for details as needed. Or is fluid bleeding pretty much the
same on all cars?

Again, nothing special with the Subaru. I noticed
that the bleeder valves in the rear are a different
wrench size than the fronts. Caused me a little
bit of mental confusion

I don't have a link for bleeding brakes, but I'm
sure that one exists. If you just use a clear
glass jar and a length of plastic tubing, it's a
two person job, one to add fluid and watch the glass
jar and another to press the brake pedal.

If you can't find a link to the procedure, let me
know and I'll write it up. I'm at work and too
busy to do it now.

 

[Rockin Ronnie]

Again, nothing special with the Subaru. I noticed
that the bleeder valves in the rear are a different
wrench size than the fronts. Caused me a little
bit of mental confusion

I don't have a link for bleeding brakes, but I'm
sure that one exists. If you just use a clear
glass jar and a length of plastic tubing, it's a
two person job, one to add fluid and watch the glass
jar and another to press the brake pedal.

If you can't find a link to the procedure, let me
know and I'll write it up. I'm at work and too
busy to do it now.

Found this on a googlehunt:

Subes are a cross plumbed system, IE: PS front DS rear, DS front PS rear.
Start at PS rear, then DS front; then DS rear, then PS front. Bottle with
hose method is best, put some fluid in bottle as to not suck in air. Just
remember to top off MC while doing this. Really sucks to get air in system
while trying to bled air out of system.

 

[Todd H.]

So you does that mean you needed two different diameter tubes? sorry
if it's a dumb question. I don't have a good mental picture of what
this bleeder valve is gonna look like.


I found these two...

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/howtobleedbrakesright.htm
http://www.diynet.com/diy/ab_brakes/article/0,2021,DIY_13682_2278460,00.html

So it seems the trick to avoiding getting air in the system is to
a) only have the bleeder valve open while there's pressure
applied to the hydralics somehow (a helper stepping on the
pedal, or having a pump)
and
b) making sure the master cylinder keeps getting fed with
plenty of fresh fluid.


I'm not clear on the what the purpose of the fresh fluid in the catch
bottle does for ya though. Is that to keep the tube continuously
filled with fluid to further mimize the chance of air coming back into
the system through the bleeder valve?

Found this on a googlehunt:

Subes are a cross plumbed system, IE: PS front DS rear, DS front PS
rear. Start at PS rear, then DS front; then DS rear, then PS
front. Bottle with hose method is best, put some fluid in bottle as
to not suck in air. Just remember to top off MC while doing
this. Really sucks to get air in system while trying to bled air out
of system.

Cool. Ronnie, Jim, thanks much. I also found this nifty $50 toy
that apparently simplifies things greatly? I'm curious if anyone's
used it:
Review of Motive Power Bleeder
http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/motive_bleeder/

Motive Products website:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

Thanks again for the educational banter.


Best Regards,

 

[TG]

Check this link for a "one man bleeder" connects to any size fitting and you
just loosen the screw on the caliper and then go inside and start pumping
until fluid runs clear...keep the reservoir full. TG
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...t?prrfnbr=15610742&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=
in case the link doesn't work : Item#: SER2538 Price: $ 8.99

 

[Mike]

Did mine a few weeks ago on the '01 OBW. 2 bolts hold the caliper on.
The front caliper is a dual-piston design, but by alternating my
homemade piston pusher I got both pistons back in. The pads have shims
and clips on them. I reused the clips & the shims came with the pads.
Used a die grinder to knock off the rust ridge on the rotor, but this
is optional. The rotors were a bit chewed up, I'll replace them next
time. Aftermarket rotors are available.

After I push the pistons in I siphon out the master cylinder & refill
it. Now I've got fresh fluid going to the caliper. Not as good as a
full flush but it's quick & dirty.

Mike

 

[Todd H.]

Check this link for a "one man bleeder" connects to any size fitting and you
just loosen the screw on the caliper and then go inside and start pumping
until fluid runs clear...keep the reservoir full. TG
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...t?prrfnbr=15610742&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=
in case the link doesn't work : Item#: SER2538 Price: $ 8.99

Hey TG--thanks for the followup. So in addition to the tube that's
most prominent in the fixture, the fitting is a 1-way valve that
prevents air from getting back into the system without having to use a
jar/tube with fresh fluid in it? Is that right?

Napa was a bit short on explanation.

Best Regards,

 

[TG]

That is correct... the whole kit is a hose weith different sizes of rubber
nipples to fit your car and a one way valve...you can blow into it but you
can't suck....try this with air not brake fluid. TG

 

[Todd H.]

As I approach 60k mi on my 2001 Outback Wagon, my tire installer told
me that I'm in need of a front pad change. I told him that surprised
me since I hadn't heard the audible indicators. He informed me "these
pads don't have any." Evidently I need to act fast as there isn't
much pad left.

Anyhoo, I've changed pads on 2 other vehicles before and found it
simple enough.

Is there anything weird about this job on the 2000-2004 Outback
Wagons? Anything other than the pads that I need to do the job
right?

Well, just finished it up inside of 3 hrs (glad I don't do this for a
living). It was exceedingly simple, as helpful others had said.

One thing with this job though, I couldn't budge either of those
double cylinders manually like I could the single cylinders I worked
with on other cars. Luckily I learned that a caulking gun plus a
cleaned off old brake pad works just fine as a piston compressor when
yer in a pinch.

Due to time constraints, I wasn't able to bleed the brakes, but I have
a 60k mi service coming up here very soon and will catch it then.
But, at least I got the torque wrench out when reinstalling the
wheels.

A few questions for the brake knowledgeable now that my curiousity
has been triggered:

1 Shims... This is the first job where I've actualy taken the
time to transfer the two shim plates from the old pads to the
new pads (which didn't come with any). On the prior two jobs
I did, I either don't remember the old pads having them, or
didn't bother putting them on the new pads. At any rate,
that seemed to have no ill effects. What do these things do
anyway? If I had to guess it would be to have some thin
fast-cooling metal closest to the hydralics versus the brake
pad's thick metalic base.

2 The little handle on the inner brake pad--at the corner of the
inside brake pad. The new pads didn't come with this, but I
did transfer one of them to the new inner pad for the drivers
side, but realized too late I didn't do the same for the
passenger side. What's that for other than convenience in
handling? Does actually do anything?

3 The inner pad on the driver's side was by far the thinnest
lining left. Furthermore, the lower most half of it was more
worn than the top. What would cause this uneven wear? Is the
caliper hanging the pad up on the rotor perhaps? Is 60k a
little young for this car to need pads? I'm not a
deceleration nut or anything, and my front pads on my Mazda
626 lasted over 85k.

Thanks in advance for indulging all the brake questions--y'all rock!

Best Regards,