NOW what did I do?!

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

So, the Suby was jumping from first to second gear with a lurch, and I saw
in a factory manual where the brake band could be adjusted. Loosen the
lock nut, turn the bolt to 18 FT LBS, back off 3/4 turn and tighten.
Unless the car is jumping from 1st to 2nd and doesn't kickdown properly
(both problems).

Trouble was, I don't have a torque wrench small enough to fit in there and
couldn't find one on a Sunday. Well, 18 ft-lbs isn't much...

I adjusted it, and the trans jumped on the first 1-2 shift, but then
smoothed out. But the car was dragging...

I did it again, put the car in "R" and couldn't back down the ramps!!!

Adjusted it again, still dragging. One more time...

It shifted into Reverse, went down the ramps just fine. I went for a test
spin, and about 3/4 mile from home the engine revs are going UP and the
car is slowing DOWN!!

I turned around, and the car started moving better and better. I went for
about a 10 mile ride, smooth shifts from 1-2, immediate kickdown, seems to
be no problem.

I guess what I did was overtightened the band, and it was clamping until
it freed itself and settled in...(?)

 

[Ray O]

So, the Suby was jumping from first to second gear with a lurch, and I saw
in a factory manual where the brake band could be adjusted. Loosen the
lock nut, turn the bolt to 18 FT LBS, back off 3/4 turn and tighten.
Unless the car is jumping from 1st to 2nd and doesn't kickdown properly
(both problems).

Trouble was, I don't have a torque wrench small enough to fit in there and
couldn't find one on a Sunday. Well, 18 ft-lbs isn't much...

I adjusted it, and the trans jumped on the first 1-2 shift, but then
smoothed out. But the car was dragging...

I did it again, put the car in "R" and couldn't back down the ramps!!!

Adjusted it again, still dragging. One more time...

It shifted into Reverse, went down the ramps just fine. I went for a test
spin, and about 3/4 mile from home the engine revs are going UP and the
car is slowing DOWN!!

I turned around, and the car started moving better and better. I went for
about a 10 mile ride, smooth shifts from 1-2, immediate kickdown, seems to
be no problem.

I guess what I did was overtightened the band, and it was clamping until
it freed itself and settled in...(?)

Probably...

 

[Hachiroku]

Probably...

That's...what I was hoping you'd say!

 

[Ray O]

That's...what I was hoping you'd say!

The good news... The transmission seems to be shifting properly

The bad news... You probably put a year or two's worth of wear on the
friction surfaces. Make sure the fluid didn't get blackened, and if it did,
you might want to change it.

 

[Vash the Stampede]

The good news... The transmission seems to be shifting properly

The bad news... You probably put a year or two's worth of wear on the
friction surfaces. Make sure the fluid didn't get blackened, and if it
did, you might want to change it.

It's coming off the raod soon (and the Supra is going back on!) and it's
not going to get driven that much more. Overall I put less than 5 miles on
it with the band that tight.

And, let's see if the car *MAKES* it another year or two!

 

[Ray O]

It's coming off the raod soon (and the Supra is going back on!) and it's
not going to get driven that much more. Overall I put less than 5 miles on
it with the band that tight.

And, let's see if the car *MAKES* it another year or two!

Hopefully, it will!

 

[Stewart DIBBS]

That's...what I was hoping you'd say!

Ah, the joys of older automatic tranmissions. That's why I only drive
manuals. Apart from liking to have a stick to stir the pudding with as it
were, a manual can sound like a mobile rock crusher and still move the car.
Get almost any problem with the auto and you are stuck on the side of the
road, or worse, right in the middle of it.

Years ago I had a Renault R8 that busted a synchro ring 1000km from home, in
another state. A little chunk was caught in the gear teeth and sounding
REALLY bad. I put the car on a hoist, drained the oil, stuck a water hose
into the filler point and spun the wheels to dislodge the piece, refilled
the oil and drove the car another 7000 km including 3 rallies before I
swapped out the transaxle. All I had to do was double declutch changing
3->4.

SD

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B]

Ah, the joys of older automatic tranmissions. That's why I only drive
manuals. Apart from liking to have a stick to stir the pudding with as it
were, a manual can sound like a mobile rock crusher and still move the
car. Get almost any problem with the auto and you are stuck on the side of
the road, or worse, right in the middle of it.

I have this car, a '97 Legacy with a BHG (Remember? and a Supra with
ATs. My Scion tC, Mazda 626 and Corolla GTS have 5-speeds (and if I have
anything to do with it, the Scion will have a 6-speed in a year or two...)
The Supra...well, the price was just too good. I want to swap that over to
a 5-speed, too. The GL 3-door was bought to deliver newspapers in the
winter, and an AT and power windows cut about 20 minutes off my time!

Years ago I had a Renault R8 that busted a synchro ring 1000km from home,
in another state. A little chunk was caught in the gear teeth and
sounding REALLY bad. I put the car on a hoist, drained the oil, stuck a
water hose into the filler point and spun the wheels to dislodge the
piece, refilled the oil and drove the car another 7000 km including 3
rallies before I swapped out the transaxle. All I had to do was double
declutch changing 3->4.

SD

Yeah. Manuals are more forgiving, require less maintenance and allow MUCH
better control over the car. Who needs traction control with a 5-speed in
a RWD car?