None of these are Subies....

Hi YPW, All!

I wasn't braking hard, but I found that ABS just didn't do that much
when I started sliding in snow-covered ice. In dry/wet conditions,
I've never really felt ABS engaging except for panic braking - usually
with pedal to the floor.

The ABS system, as someone here noted, is supposed to pulse the
brakes, rather than simply locking the wheel(s), as would be the case
in a foot-to-the-floor panic stop situation for most drivers. The ABS
on my pops newer Caddy does just this (I tried it out on an icy patch
when he first got it . . .). It really does help maintain control of
the car; you don't really _stop_ any faster, but you maintain steering
control for the most part. In a similar situation, the Subaru ABS
doesn't seem to pulse the brakes, rather you get more of a klunk-slide
klunk-klunk-slide sort of response, as the wheels lock and release.
I'm guessing that the ABS is mis-intrepreting the sensor inputs under
very low traction situations. At least on the Forester. having studded
tires seems to alleviate this problem, and they function about the
same as they would on pavement. I have also observed that ABS will
often mis-behave on dirt/gravel roads. I've observed a dramatic
reduction in braking response when it engages. Admittedly, I was going
considerably faster than would be considered normal and/or sane at the
time, but it was nowhere near as disconcerting on gravel as it is on
ice.

If you _haven't_ experienced the ABS effect, I would advise that you
try it out. Find a large empty parking lot. Run your car up to 35-40
MPH, and tromp on the brake pedal (do check the rear-view mirror, just
in case . . .). You should both hear and feel a deep kinda HUMMM when
the ABS kicks in. Try it again, and simultaneously work the steering,
as if you were swerving to avoid an obstacle. You should be able to
pretty much put your car where you want. Try the same thing with a
non-ABS car to see the difference, but be sure there isn't anything in
your line-of-fire, cause you're gonna slide, maybe even spin. Er, Um,
_don't_ try this with your basic SUV; very few passenger cars will
even try to flip in a slide/spin on flat unobstructed pavement, an SUV
is an entirely different thing, tho, and you might find yourself
looking at things from an entirely different perspective. Now try it
again when the parking lot has ice. You will note some differences in
the way your car responds.

Basic stuff. Lest you think this is silly, I can assure you that a
driving school will put you thru this very sort of manoeuvre. In any
event, you will feel better about your car, knowing what it feels like
to slide and recover.

FWIW, all of our kids were required to put in a season of autocross
after getting their license. Learning to control a car "on the edge"
simply makes you a better driver. For all too many out there, their
first experience of having their car get loose in a turn, or slide as
a result of too much brake pedal, is in the few seconds before they
hit something . . .

Couple years back, my usual autocross car (an MR2) was down, and I was
prepping my Legacy to go to an event just for fun . . . My wife:
"But _that's_ not a race car . . ."
"Sweetheart, they're _all_ race cars . . ." :-D
Autocross. Really, most highly recommended, and huge fun as well.
Check out the SCCA web site for details, and to find an event near
you.
Well - what kind of chains do you use? I hear the diagonal type
chains work better and look to be easier to install with the three
connection points (and final connection on the top where there
should be more room to work with). Frankly it looks like the
same connection setup could be applied to a ladder chain.

Regular old "chains"; ladder-chains, I guess, not the cable-chains in
any event. And yep, they sure are a pain in the a__ to put on; almost
as bad to take off. Not to mention that usually by the time you decide
you want 'em, you're stuck in knee-deep snow, your wheel-wells are
packed with muddy slush, and you're wearing your goin'-to-work
clothes.

So now you're gonna get down on your knees and mount those chains, eh?
Easier said than done; those of you who have been there know _exactly_
what I'm talking about. Those who haven't . . . I recommend learning
how on a warm, dry afternoon in the privacy of your driveway. And send
the kids out to play lest they pick up some new and colorful language!

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101
 
Hi YPW, All!


Regular old "chains"; ladder-chains, I guess, not the cable-chains in
any event. And yep, they sure are a pain in the a__ to put on; almost
as bad to take off. Not to mention that usually by the time you decide
you want 'em, you're stuck in knee-deep snow, your wheel-wells are
packed with muddy slush, and you're wearing your goin'-to-work
clothes.

I've been looking into getting newer chains. "Ladder" or "radial" vs
"diagonal" or "Z" designs are really independent of the type of
material
used. The cable-type chains are the ones made of steel cable and
little crimped on rollers on the traction portion of the chains. The
standard link style chains are of course made of chain links (duh).

The following link is for five different styles of chains: a
ladder-type
using links, a ladder-type with cable/rollers, a diagonal type with
cable/rollers (and a rubber chain tightener), and two diamond-types
using links.

<http://www.tirechain.com/P205-55R-16.htm>

Security Chain has several different variations.

So now you're gonna get down on your knees and mount those chains, eh?
Easier said than done; those of you who have been there know _exactly_
what I'm talking about. Those who haven't . . . I recommend learning
how on a warm, dry afternoon in the privacy of your driveway. And send
the kids out to play lest they pick up some new and colorful language!

I tried and gave up. The strange thing is that the instructions with
my
cable chains recommend draping them over the top of the tire, then
attaching them at the bottom. I tried in my garage and it ain't easy.
The hard part seems to be getting the hands around the back. Of
course it's supposed to be tightened a bit after driving a few feet.
I've got the common Cobra Tire Chain from Quality Chain.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/pdfs/passenger_install.PDF>

More traditional instructions (I've seen on the web) for the ladder
type
chains is to lay them down, drive over them, connect the attachments
(which are no longer at the bottom), drive a few feet, and tighten.
This
seems easier for some reason if I don't try and tighten them at the
bottom. I would even venture to guess that it would be even easier
to do this with the tires jacked up in a garage, before venturing out
into the snow. ;-)
 
strchild said:
Sorry, my apologies. The spelling didn't dawn on me until you pointed it
out! (-;

Thanks for the info about the anti-lock "brakes"! Sounds somewhat
distracting to me, but I suppose they do their job, and they're good for the
pedal mashers out there.

~Brian

I used to believe my foot was more educated than the damned ABS was,
especially after hitting the trip point on the '95 Chev van I drive at
work. (This was back in the era when GM had to put a videotape in the
jockeybox explaining ABS. I could either featherfoot the pedal or pump
it as conditions dictated.. lots of pre-ABS ice experience.

Either I'm losing my touch or ABS has gotten much better. It kicked in
on my '00 OBWL on ice a couple of weeks ago and (other than the "ABS
Surprise") actually allowed some steering control. I later found an
empty parking lot and "let it all hang out" with and without ABS.. I was
impressed!
 
especially after hitting the trip point on the '95 Chev van I drive at
work. (This was back in the era when GM had to put a videotape in the
jockeybox explaining ABS. I could either featherfoot the pedal or pump
it as conditions dictated.. lots of pre-ABS ice experience.

Either I'm losing my touch or ABS has gotten much better. It kicked in
on my '00 OBWL on ice a couple of weeks ago and (other than the "ABS
Surprise") actually allowed some steering control. I later found an
empty parking lot and "let it all hang out" with and without ABS.. I was
impressed!

Just remember to test it daily so that it does not go bad from disuse.
What's L in OBWL?
 
Oscar_Lives said:
LL Bean Edition?
"Limited". They didn't have the LL Bean back then. Basically an OB with
leather seats and twin moonroofs. It also has a limited slip rear..
that's worth it.
 
Just remember to test it daily so that it does not go bad from disuse.
What's L in OBWL?

Are you serious or just kidding?

ABS isn't really meant for anything but emergency stopping.
"Disuse" doesn't really matter as ABS pumps always cycle
at startup and can cycle when driving.
 
y_p_w said:
I've been looking into getting newer chains. "Ladder" or "radial" vs
"diagonal" or "Z" designs are really independent of the type of
material
used. The cable-type chains are the ones made of steel cable and
little crimped on rollers on the traction portion of the chains. The
standard link style chains are of course made of chain links (duh).

The following link is for five different styles of chains: a
ladder-type
using links, a ladder-type with cable/rollers, a diagonal type with
cable/rollers (and a rubber chain tightener), and two diamond-types
using links.

<http://www.tirechain.com/P205-55R-16.htm>

Security Chain has several different variations.




I tried and gave up. The strange thing is that the instructions with
my
cable chains recommend draping them over the top of the tire, then
attaching them at the bottom. I tried in my garage and it ain't easy.
The hard part seems to be getting the hands around the back. Of
course it's supposed to be tightened a bit after driving a few feet.
I've got the common Cobra Tire Chain from Quality Chain.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/pdfs/passenger_install.PDF>

More traditional instructions (I've seen on the web) for the ladder
type
chains is to lay them down, drive over them, connect the attachments
(which are no longer at the bottom), drive a few feet, and tighten.
This
seems easier for some reason if I don't try and tighten them at the
bottom. I would even venture to guess that it would be even easier
to do this with the tires jacked up in a garage, before venturing out
into the snow. ;-)
http://www.spikes-spiders.com/

Carl
 
Can you imagine being on this road?


-John O

as a wise man once pointed out, cars have always had 4-wheel BRAKES -
the addition of 4-wheel DRIVE doesn't make them stop any better.
 
y_p_w said:
First thing - studded tires aren't legal in California.

I thought studs were illegal in California because they chew
up pavement, but I found the following when researching chain
control requirements (apologies for the bad info):

<http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc27454.htm>

"Protuberances on Tires: Exceptions

27454. No tire on any vehicle upon any highway shall have
on its periphery any block, stud, flange, cleat, ridge, bead,
or any other protuberance of metal or wood that projects
beyond the tread of the traction surface of the tire.

This section does not apply to any of the following:

(e) Pneumatic tires containing metal-type studs of tungsten
carbide or other suitable material that are so inserted or
constructed that under no conditions will the number of
studs or the percentage of metal in contact with the roadway
exceed 3 percent of the total tire area in contact with the
roadway, between November 1 and April 30 of each year. The
commissioner, after consultation with the Department of
Transportation, may extend the period during which studded
pneumatic tires may be used in any area of the state for
the protection of the public because of adverse weather
conditions."

** ** **

However - studded tires don't count as "traction control
devices". Anyone with studded snow tires would still
need to carry chains in chain control areas and maybe
even install them.

<http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/traffops/trucks/trucksize/chains.htm#studded>

"If I have studded snow tires, do I need to carry chains?

Yes. Studded snow tires are not considered tire traction
devices and may not be used in lieu of chains."
 
y_p_w said:
I tried and gave up. The strange thing is that the instructions
with my cable chains recommend draping them over the top of the
tire, then attaching them at the bottom. I tried in my garage
and it ain't easy. The hard part seems to be getting the hands
around the back. Of course it's supposed to be tightened a bit
after driving a few feet. I've got the common Cobra Tire Chain
from Quality Chain.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/pdfs/passenger_install.PDF>

I tried it again last night. I could get the stock #
1034 Cobra cable chain to 6 bushings on each side on some
nearly brand new 205/55R16 tires. I tried pulling in one
more bushing into the outside keyhole/endhook but couldn't
get it any tighter. I didn't try driving it, which the
instructions suggest may be needed to tighten any further.
At that point, it still felt loose and I don't think I
would have been comfortable driving with them on.

I see they also sell a "spider adjuster" that seems to be
6 rubber arms (joined at the center) with hooks to take up
the slack. The catalog picture even shows the chain with
one of these adjusters installed. I don't know where to
find them, but maybe I can located them up in the Sierras
when I go on vacation. While I suppose they aren't needed
if you can get the side cables tight, it would really help
for someone like me who doesn't particularly like putting
on chains. It also seems to get the chains on tight w/o
making them impossible to take off later.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/detail.phtml?sku=1034>
http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/accessories.php?s=3&a=misc_parts&sku=0212

I looked up a few more assorted installation instructions
for ladder type chains. Each manufacturer seems to have
a slightly different take, along with slightly different
setups. However - one thing that did make sense was an
instruction to turn the tires (with the steering wheel)
to make it easier to reach the inside connector.

Of course I am driving a Subaru, and I've been waved past
every California chain checkpoint I've gone through so
far. I have the chains because I'm required to carry at
least a pair going through chain control areas.

BTW - I know my owner's manual don't recommend it, but
has anyone tried out four chains in a Subaru? I keep
on hearing that chains on the front are a recipe for
spinning out if all four wheels are driven.
 
tom said:
as a wise man once pointed out, cars have always had 4-wheel BRAKES -
the addition of 4-wheel DRIVE doesn't make them stop any better.

Are you sure. I remember some bicycles from my childhood
only had rear coaster brakes. I'm sure there might have
been some early cars that only had two wheel braking. Did
Gottlieb Daimler's first three wheeler even have brakes?

BTW - Any experienced bicyclist can stop with the front
brakes alone. As with cars, the front brakes are far
more effective, as the weight transfers to the front
tire. It just takes some technique, including leaning
the weight backwards, and a bit of balance.
 
S said:
Regular old "chains"; ladder-chains, I guess, not the cable-chains in
any event. And yep, they sure are a pain in the a__ to put on; almost
as bad to take off. Not to mention that usually by the time you decide
you want 'em, you're stuck in knee-deep snow, your wheel-wells are
packed with muddy slush, and you're wearing your goin'-to-work
clothes.

So now you're gonna get down on your knees and mount those chains, eh?
Easier said than done; those of you who have been there know _exactly_
what I'm talking about. Those who haven't . . . I recommend learning
how on a warm, dry afternoon in the privacy of your driveway. And send
the kids out to play lest they pick up some new and colorful language!

I looked some of the different offerings. Several chain
manufacturers sell and recommend using chain tighteners.
The company that makes my chains even shows them being used.

<http://www.qualitychaincorp.com/detail.phtml?sku=1034>

I tried getting them on tight without adjusters, and really
couldn't. However - when I just pulled down on the side
cable it seemed to take up the slack. I asked in another
forum, and bungee cords were suggested instead of the
purpose-built chain adjusters.

Some of the newer cables don't even have any adjustment to
them. They have a huge slack if just attached via the
metal connectors. They have to be tightened with rubber
chain adjusters that are included. One supposed benefit
is that they have to be driven and periodically checked,
because the tighteners always ensure that they're tight.

<http://www.scc-chain.com/Traction Pages/Trac_SGZ.html>
 

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