Hello I would like to ask about the brakes

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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester and my boyfriend is trying to bleed the brakes but these cars aren't like the older cars and you can't bleed them like you used to. We have tried 3 different ways but still can't figure it out.

So I would really appreciate any information on it. There we can't get the air out. I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you

Suzanne
 
All of mine bleed normally. Maybe some details? Unless you replaced a component, there should be no air in the system. Even if a caliper is replaced, the air is only in the caliper and quickly bled. (Still easier if you fill the caliper first with the pistons pushed out a bit then pushed back in with the bleeder open.)
 
Gravity bleed it to start with and be patient
Then
Start the bleed procedure
He needs a good assistant, let that be you
He has you pump the pedal as he opens and closes the bleed screw, right?
You make sure he does it right
That bleed screw needs to be closed EVERY time the pedal comes up
YOU be the good assistant and make sure the screw is closed before you let up the brake pedal
 
I never open /close. Fluid in the master should be pulled in up the upstroke much easier than through the bleeder. Just ensure the hose on the bleeder has enough fluid (aimed up a bit). Absolutely no need to open/close a thousand times.
 
What made you decide to bleed the brakes? The diagnosis may depend on what has been done to the brake system. Calipers can be replaced when they get stuck.
Maybe the problem is air entering the brake system via the brake master cylinder.
Is there any evidence of leakage? Do you have to top off the brake reservoir? Did the brake pads get replaced?
How many miles are on the car?
Brake fluid can become contaminated over time. The fluid should be clean and clear.
Dark brake fluid indicates the seals are wearing out, or water and rust have entered the system.
A handy kit for bleeding brakes is available at Harbor Freight. It is a hand operated pump/vacuum device that will draw the air into a container. The routine is to start at the wheel furthest from the driver, the right rear wheel, then left rear wheel, the right front, and finally the front left (driver's side) wheel.
Usually, if brake fluid is disappearing, it will leak out and be easy to spot upon inspection. If air enters the brake system, then there is usually a path that includes brake fluid escaping. Sometimes the master cylinder leaks into the brake booster instead on the floor below the pedal.
 
Sometimes a car will have a proportioning valve to the rear brakes. If the car is suspended by a jackstand on the body, and the rear wheels dangle in the air, then the proportioning valve will not allow the air to be purged from the rear brake circuit. The solution is to use wheel ramps instead of the body jacks.
 

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