headlight switch - modifying?

J

Jim

I am in CA with a new OBW.

It has DRL so the headlights are always on. I like that, because it
gives me one less thing to remember. But in the 1st postition of the
switch, while the headlights are on, the taillights ARE NOT on. The
other night, I was driving around and I thought I had all my lights on -
but in reality the switch was in the 1st position and I had no
taillights. Fortunately, a friend driving behind me noticed it, before
the cops did. I would like to change the way the switch works, so that
the taillights are on in 1st position too. Or, modify the switch so it
can't go in the 1st position.

Any suggestions?

Jim
 
Jim said:
I am in CA with a new OBW.

It has DRL so the headlights are always on. I like that, because it
gives me one less thing to remember. But in the 1st postition of the
switch, while the headlights are on, the taillights ARE NOT on. The
other night, I was driving around and I thought I had all my lights on -
but in reality the switch was in the 1st position and I had no
taillights. Fortunately, a friend driving behind me noticed it, before
the cops did. I would like to change the way the switch works, so that
the taillights are on in 1st position too. Or, modify the switch so it
can't go in the 1st position.
Any suggestions?

Jim

I'm not sure I understand your post. It sounds as if you feel the DRL
are for use at night! They are D aytime R unning L ights. DAYTIME. The
first position of the switch on the light stalk however SHOULD turn on
the 'parking' lights front AND rear. If it does not, take the vehicle
back to the dealer.

Carl
 
I leave the switch full on all the time on my 03 OBW (headlights shut
off when the engine is shut off). I would assume you could do the same
and not have to worry about modifying anything. Or, is yours different?

Jim
 
Thanks for suggestions but there's two reasons why they don't work for me.

1. While I am the main driver, I am not the only driver, and others
adjust the switch.

2. I know I could tape or glue it in the all-the-way-on (3rd) position,
but I like to use the 2nd position when I'm driving where the streets
have good street lighting. The 2nd position leaves the headlights on a
less than full power setting, and doesn't blind oncoming drivers as much
as the full power setting (3rd position) does.

Jim (the OP)
 
Jim said:
Thanks for suggestions but there's two reasons why they don't work for me.

1. While I am the main driver, I am not the only driver, and others
adjust the switch.

2. I know I could tape or glue it in the all-the-way-on (3rd) position,
but I like to use the 2nd position when I'm driving where the streets
have good street lighting. The 2nd position leaves the headlights on a
less than full power setting, and doesn't blind oncoming drivers as much
as the full power setting (3rd position) does.

Jim (the OP)
Try just using the switch on top of the steering column. But I'd like to
go on record as saying you're crazy for not using the lights at night!

Carl
 
OK, it sounds like the easiest way to fix it will be to glue something
onto the switch, to keep it from moving into the first (headlights but
no taillights) position. So I will do that.

Jim
 
The problem is that the dash lights are on in DRL mode as well.
This makes it tough to remember to switch to regular headlight mode after
dark, I've done the same thing as the OP several times.

I actually talked to SOA about this, and they agreed it was a strange
design, but there is no way to fix it other than their recommendation of
leaving the lights on all the time as well.

-pete
 
If anyone is interested, I made a piece the other day, and have now
tested it for a couple days. It works. It locks out the first position
(drl's, no taillites). So now I only have a choice between 2nd position
(drls with tails) or 3rd position (full headlamps and tails), and can
never inadvertently be driving at night with no taillights (which is a
sure way to get pulled over).

The piece is made from a small portion of a 3/4" white PVC pipe coupling
(available at any hardware store for about 20 cents US). I used that
size because its curvature matches the curve of the knob on the stalk. I
cut out a (approx.) 1/2" x 1/2" piece with a little projection on one
side. I glued it onto the upper surface of the knob, in such a way that
the projection hangs over onto the adjacent ring and hits the molded rib
- which stops it from going into 1st position. The design is pretty
obvious so I won't describe it further as it will take you only a few
seconds to figure it out while you're making your piece.

I used super glue, the kit that comes with primer which you apply to the
plastic surfaces first. I used less than a drop of the glue. I cleaned
both plastic surfaces with mild cleaning solvent first. (Use solvent
sparingly, and keep it off of silk screened lettering, if any.) Once the
piece was in position, I used a black magic marker to color the piece black.

Total working time less than 15 minutes. Materials required: Plastic
coupling, hacksaw or professional PVC pipe cutter pliers to cut PVC,
fine toothed file or sandpaper to smooth/bevel the edges, cleaning
solvent, glue, marker, small plastic baggie to protect fingers from
getting glued.

Sorry no pictures. I tried but my camera would not focus properly at the
close distance.

Jim


Pete said:
The problem is that the dash lights are on in DRL mode as well.
This makes it tough to remember to switch to regular headlight mode after
dark, I've done the same thing as the OP several times.

I actually talked to SOA about this, and they agreed it was a strange
design, but there is no way to fix it other than their recommendation of
leaving the lights on all the time as well.

-pete
 
I just thought of a way to describe the shape of the piece I made.
Looks pretty much like the outline of the state of Oklahoma, except
flipped over (mirror image). The "little projection" I mentioned is
Oklahoma's "pan handle."

Jim
 

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