Wanted to get ideas from they guys who answered my last thread.
I suppose you're wondering why I called you all here.
Considering the car has 335,000 miles, I think I'd like to take the
easiest way out. What's the easiest way to remove the heads without
undoing anything else? Is it possible to lift the engine X inches and
remove the heads?
If I can, then what do I have to unbolt?
OK, here it goes in the best order I can. (assuming a single cam?)
front:
radiator fans, and belts (tip) Take a 22 mm socket 1/2 inch- on a
breaker bar, put it on the crank bolt and tuck the breaker bar on the
car frame by the battery. turn key, listen for thump. check to see if
crank bolt is loose. timing belt and pulleys, remove covers from rear
of pullies. 1 10mm bolt for the dipstick tube and 3 14mm bolts holding
the lower ac bracket to the head-
drain rad.
Mostly bottom:
unplug o2 sensor by rt ft axle, unbolt the exhaust manifold from the
head, cover both with baggies. Unbolt aft exhaust bolt and drop out of
the way- you may elect to remove the exhaust pipe at this time -2 more
bolts by the transmission. remove two bolts on the engine mount.
Top:
air filter and all boxes, battery, washer tank. rear support rod.
Remove the two 10mm bolts on the right intake manifold that hold the
power steering lines down, bend the lines up about 1/2 an inch or so-
create room. unbolt the 8 bolts holding the intake manifold down,
also, remove the egr tube from the left head and intake.manifold (on
some cars) Pull up in the intake manifold and use something (we use
2x2's) to hold it "up"
Jack engine and somehow push it to one side, I suggest to the drivers
side first- and pull the pass side head first. put some wood under the
eng mounts, safety. In the shop we can get it high enough to clear the
mount studs from the frame, and pushed over so that sometimes the
bolts isn't even over the holes- not as easy to do on a auto trans.
Rt head:
There is a ground wire on the rear of the pass head, un-plug it.
Valve covers, 6 head bolts. You will need a 13mm 12 point socket,
preferably a 3/8 adapted to a 1/2 breaker bar; loosen the head bolts.
some may not be able to remove from the head because they will hit the
frame, but remove the ones you can. wiggle the head and remove it from
the bottom. coolant will come out, this is why you covered the exhaust
manifolds if you did not remove them.
now shift the eng to the pass side as far as it can go.
left head:
unplug the cam sensor and unbolt the oil fill tube. two 10mm bolts
hold the transmission lines to the bottom of the head, remove the
bolts. this is why you have it safetied up.
it helps to undo the rubber hoses, but it will leak trans fluid.
there is a hose clamp by the t-stat. it points toward the tire; pinch
it and turn it forward, it may be in the way when you wiggle the head
out.
unbolt the valve cover and remove the head bolts. this side is a bit
harder to squeeze out, but it can be done.
Unless I forgot something, hour heads are now on the ground.
