Engine lifting points?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Remco, Dec 26, 2005.

  1. Remco

    Remco Guest

    Hi all
    I am getting ready to lift the engine out of my daughter's impreza and
    was wondering what the best place is to lift this engine from.
    I see threaded holes on the cylinder heads so could probably bolt "I"
    bolts into them but is that the preferred way? I have a load leveller
    and was wondering if the best way was mount it side to side or back to
    front? As far as can be seen, I don't see any hook points anywhere.

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 26, 2005
    #1
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  2. Remco

    johninKY Guest

    Subaru engines weigh next to nothing. I have used a tow strap more than
    once to pull an engine. Just wrap it around the ends of the cylinder
    heads and across the intake manifold in an X pattern.
     
    johninKY, Dec 27, 2005
    #2
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  3. Remco

    Remco Guest

    Thanks - I'll try that too. It looks like a very similar engine as my
    aircooled bug has and that one I can pull in about 1/2 hour or so (of
    course, it doesn't have half the stuff this thing has :)

    I started today by disconnecting the obvious stuff, all the while
    taking pictures of the connections and putting lables on them. I think
    I can carefully swing the AC compressor and power steering pump out of
    the way (towards the sides) without having to disconnect everything,
    does that sound right to you?
    It also looks like the radiator has to come out so that there's enough
    room to pull the engine clear from the shaft, do I have that right?
    I was actually debating whether the intake manifold has to come off or
    not. You're suggesting it can stay without a problem? It just looks
    tight, in that one may not be able to get a socket on the flexplate
    bolts with it on..

    Thanks for the suggestions.
    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 27, 2005
    #3
  4. Remco

    johninKY Guest

    My engine-pulling experiences are limited to the EA 82 and ER 27 engines.
    Having said that, I see no reason to remove the intake manifold. I always
    removed the radiator. The AC compressor can be removed from the engine
    without breaking any of the lines and placed out of the way. I don't
    think this will work with the power steering. I always removed the lines
    at the pump. Sometimes I removed the hood and other times I didn't. The
    compressor bracket can be used for one chain attachment point. I think
    you will also need to support the transmission with a jack as it will move
    forward and downward when separated from the engine. Always a good idea to
    remove the battery from the engine bay. When you think the engine is ready
    to pull, look again for something still connected. In my experience I
    almost always find an overlooked ground strap or something still connected
    to the engine.
     
    johninKY, Dec 28, 2005
    #4
  5. Remco

    Remco Guest

    Thanks for those hints, John. I'll try to do it the same way, hopefully
    today if not tomorrow.

    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 28, 2005
    #5
  6. Remco

    beertender Guest

    Hi Remco,

    I missed the original post, so I'm not clear on exactly what model Subaru
    you are working on.

    All of the engines I have pulled had a pair of dedicated lift points, one on
    the alternator/AC bracket, the other bolted to the passenger side rear of
    the block.

    Easy engines to pull - no need to lift car and work underneath.

    I have been able to remove starter and bell housing bolts/nuts from the
    topside, only needed to lie down and reach under the front to unbolt
    the exhaust and remove engine mount to frame nuts.

    zero
     
    beertender, Dec 28, 2005
    #6
  7. I THINK there is also a little known 'feature' concerning the hood.
    Look near the pass side strut tower for a hole. Evidently Subaru has
    placed it there so the support strut can be moved, placed in that hole
    (not sure if I remember the plastic piece goes too - or maybe on some
    models the rod switches end-for-end?) and it will hold the hood in a
    vertical position. Some soobs may need windshield washer tubing
    disconnected.

    good luck

    Carl
     
    Carl 1 Lucky Texan, Dec 28, 2005
    #7
  8. Couldn't find a pic, here's a description;
    http://tinyurl.com/e3x6c

    Carl
     
    Carl 1 Lucky Texan, Dec 28, 2005
    #8
  9. Remco

    Remco Guest

    Thanks, Carl. I tried that second hole and it works very well. The hood
    stands straight up and does not need to be removed at all, from the
    looks of it.
     
    Remco, Dec 28, 2005
    #9
  10. Remco

    Remco Guest


    Thanks! I just got back in as it is getting dark again. Got everything
    off the engine, radiator out, exhaust off and nothing else connected,
    from what I can tell. Even got the AC and power steering pump pushed to
    the side -- didn't even have to disconnect the steering pump.

    Thanks for the location on those lift point - I see what they are now.
    Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the engine out. Unfortunately,
    my bug's body and frame is in the garage so have to do all this stuff
    outside - hoping for no rain.

    Thanks again, guys.
    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 28, 2005
    #10
  11. Cool! I did read of a coupla guys roping the hood to a rafter or back to
    the roof rack on a wagon.

    Carl
     
    Carl 1 Lucky Texan, Dec 29, 2005
    #11
  12. Remco

    S Guest

    Hi Remco!

    Sounds like you're mostly there. As you have found, the AC and PS
    pumps can be moved out of the way; no need to disconnect. No need to
    remove alternator or intake manifold. Disconnect engine wiring
    harness, fuel lines, brake booster, etc. Remove the radiator, heater
    lines, engine snubber, starter, and the other upper bell-housing bolt.
    Disconnect the exhaust "Y" pipe (don't forget to disconnect the O2
    sensor), motor mount nuts, and lower bell-housing nuts from below.
    This is an automatic car? The flex plate bolts (4 of 'em) are accessed
    thru the timing hole. When you move the engine forward prior to
    lifting it out, be sure you do not inadvertently pull the torque
    converter forward. This is real easy to do, and it's not particularly
    obvious that it is out of position. However, you will severely damage
    the transmission if you attempt to re-install the engine with it out.
    I'd suggest that you carefully measure the position of the torque
    converter in relation to the bell-housing before attempting to
    separate the engine. Briefly, the torque converter has two concentric
    shafts; the inner one drives the gear train, the outer drives the
    pump. It is the connection to the pump that is the issue. Should you
    accidentally move the converter, keep trying different orientations
    until you get it to slide all of the way into place. The difference
    between good and bad is only about 1/4 inch, so do be careful.
    FWIW, I haven't found the engine "leveler" to be of much use on the
    Soobies. I generally use a bit of light chain to lift the engine
    roughly into position, and then basically grab the engine and ease it
    into position by hand. This sounds kinda macho, but the engine is
    fairly light, and this allows you to be reasonably gentle as you "feel
    around" for the correct alignment. You should be able to get the
    bell-housing flange right up against the engine this way; if there is
    a stubborn 1/4 inch gap, DO NOT FORCE THE ISSUE. Rather, lift the
    engine back out and verify the torque converter position.

    ByeBye! S.


    Steve Jernigan KG0MB
    Laboratory Manager
    Microelectronics Research
    University of Colorado
    (719) 262-3101
     
    S, Dec 29, 2005
    #12
  13. Remco

    Remco Guest

    Just to keep you guys updated, today I got the engine out (was waiting
    for some decent weather).
    because of not being secured correctly, as suspected. Three of the
    holes in the torque converter/flywheel are clear, one has a snapped off
    bolt in it - I think I can get it out, so it is soaking in kroil right
    now. I'll try to nurse it out later.
    Other than that, I think a new driveplate and I'll be good to go. Will
    probably also replace the water pump as it looks like it is leaking, so
    will also do the timing belt while I am there.

    Appreciate the help, guys.
    Remco
     
    Remco, Dec 30, 2005
    #13
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