Engine lifting points?

[Remco]

Hi all
I am getting ready to lift the engine out of my daughter's impreza and
was wondering what the best place is to lift this engine from.
I see threaded holes on the cylinder heads so could probably bolt "I"
bolts into them but is that the preferred way? I have a load leveller
and was wondering if the best way was mount it side to side or back to
front? As far as can be seen, I don't see any hook points anywhere.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Remco

 

[johninKY]

Subaru engines weigh next to nothing. I have used a tow strap more than
once to pull an engine. Just wrap it around the ends of the cylinder
heads and across the intake manifold in an X pattern.

 

[Remco]

Subaru engines weigh next to nothing. I have used a tow strap more than
once to pull an engine. Just wrap it around the ends of the cylinder
heads and across the intake manifold in an X pattern.

Thanks - I'll try that too. It looks like a very similar engine as my
aircooled bug has and that one I can pull in about 1/2 hour or so (of
course, it doesn't have half the stuff this thing has

I started today by disconnecting the obvious stuff, all the while
taking pictures of the connections and putting lables on them. I think
I can carefully swing the AC compressor and power steering pump out of
the way (towards the sides) without having to disconnect everything,
does that sound right to you?
It also looks like the radiator has to come out so that there's enough
room to pull the engine clear from the shaft, do I have that right?
I was actually debating whether the intake manifold has to come off or
not. You're suggesting it can stay without a problem? It just looks
tight, in that one may not be able to get a socket on the flexplate
bolts with it on..

Thanks for the suggestions.
Remco

 

[johninKY]

My engine-pulling experiences are limited to the EA 82 and ER 27 engines.
Having said that, I see no reason to remove the intake manifold. I always
removed the radiator. The AC compressor can be removed from the engine
without breaking any of the lines and placed out of the way. I don't
think this will work with the power steering. I always removed the lines
at the pump. Sometimes I removed the hood and other times I didn't. The
compressor bracket can be used for one chain attachment point. I think
you will also need to support the transmission with a jack as it will move
forward and downward when separated from the engine. Always a good idea to
remove the battery from the engine bay. When you think the engine is ready
to pull, look again for something still connected. In my experience I
almost always find an overlooked ground strap or something still connected
to the engine.

 

[Remco]

My engine-pulling experiences are limited to the EA 82 and ER 27 engines.
Having said that, I see no reason to remove the intake manifold. I always
removed the radiator. The AC compressor can be removed from the engine
without breaking any of the lines and placed out of the way. I don't
think this will work with the power steering. I always removed the lines
at the pump. Sometimes I removed the hood and other times I didn't. The
compressor bracket can be used for one chain attachment point. I think
you will also need to support the transmission with a jack as it will move
forward and downward when separated from the engine. Always a good idea to
remove the battery from the engine bay. When you think the engine is ready
to pull, look again for something still connected. In my experience I
almost always find an overlooked ground strap or something still connected
to the engine.

Thanks for those hints, John. I'll try to do it the same way, hopefully
today if not tomorrow.

Remco

 

[beertender]

Thanks - I'll try that too. It looks like a very similar engine as my
aircooled bug has and that one I can pull in about 1/2 hour or so (of
course, it doesn't have half the stuff this thing has

I started today by disconnecting the obvious stuff, all the while
taking pictures of the connections and putting lables on them. I think
I can carefully swing the AC compressor and power steering pump out of
the way (towards the sides) without having to disconnect everything,
does that sound right to you?
It also looks like the radiator has to come out so that there's enough
room to pull the engine clear from the shaft, do I have that right?
I was actually debating whether the intake manifold has to come off or
not. You're suggesting it can stay without a problem? It just looks
tight, in that one may not be able to get a socket on the flexplate
bolts with it on..

Thanks for the suggestions.
Remco

Hi Remco,

I missed the original post, so I'm not clear on exactly what model Subaru
you are working on.

All of the engines I have pulled had a pair of dedicated lift points, one on
the alternator/AC bracket, the other bolted to the passenger side rear of
the block.

Easy engines to pull - no need to lift car and work underneath.

I have been able to remove starter and bell housing bolts/nuts from the
topside, only needed to lie down and reach under the front to unbolt
the exhaust and remove engine mount to frame nuts.

zero

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

My engine-pulling experiences are limited to the EA 82 and ER 27 engines.
Having said that, I see no reason to remove the intake manifold. I always
removed the radiator. The AC compressor can be removed from the engine
without breaking any of the lines and placed out of the way. I don't
think this will work with the power steering. I always removed the lines
at the pump. Sometimes I removed the hood and other times I didn't. The
compressor bracket can be used for one chain attachment point. I think
you will also need to support the transmission with a jack as it will move
forward and downward when separated from the engine. Always a good idea to
remove the battery from the engine bay. When you think the engine is ready
to pull, look again for something still connected. In my experience I
almost always find an overlooked ground strap or something still connected
to the engine.

I THINK there is also a little known 'feature' concerning the hood.
Look near the pass side strut tower for a hole. Evidently Subaru has
placed it there so the support strut can be moved, placed in that hole
(not sure if I remember the plastic piece goes too - or maybe on some
models the rod switches end-for-end?) and it will hold the hood in a
vertical position. Some soobs may need windshield washer tubing
disconnected.

good luck

Carl

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

I THINK there is also a little known 'feature' concerning the hood.
Look near the pass side strut tower for a hole. Evidently Subaru has
placed it there so the support strut can be moved, placed in that hole
(not sure if I remember the plastic piece goes too - or maybe on some
models the rod switches end-for-end?) and it will hold the hood in a
vertical position. Some soobs may need windshield washer tubing
disconnected.

good luck

Carl

Couldn't find a pic, here's a description;
http://tinyurl.com/e3x6c

Carl

 

[Remco]

Couldn't find a pic, here's a description;
http://tinyurl.com/e3x6c

Thanks, Carl. I tried that second hole and it works very well. The hood
stands straight up and does not need to be removed at all, from the
looks of it.

 

[Remco]

Hi Remco,

I missed the original post, so I'm not clear on exactly what model Subaru
you are working on.

All of the engines I have pulled had a pair of dedicated lift points, one on
the alternator/AC bracket, the other bolted to the passenger side rear of
the block.

Easy engines to pull - no need to lift car and work underneath.

I have been able to remove starter and bell housing bolts/nuts from the
topside, only needed to lie down and reach under the front to unbolt
the exhaust and remove engine mount to frame nuts.

zero

Thanks! I just got back in as it is getting dark again. Got everything
off the engine, radiator out, exhaust off and nothing else connected,
from what I can tell. Even got the AC and power steering pump pushed to
the side -- didn't even have to disconnect the steering pump.

Thanks for the location on those lift point - I see what they are now.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the engine out. Unfortunately,
my bug's body and frame is in the garage so have to do all this stuff
outside - hoping for no rain.

Thanks again, guys.
Remco

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks, Carl. I tried that second hole and it works very well. The hood
stands straight up and does not need to be removed at all, from the
looks of it.

Cool! I did read of a coupla guys roping the hood to a rafter or back to
the roof rack on a wagon.

Carl

 

[S]

Hi Remco!

Thanks! I just got back in as it is getting dark again. Got everything
off the engine, radiator out, exhaust off and nothing else connected,
from what I can tell. Even got the AC and power steering pump pushed to
the side -- didn't even have to disconnect the steering pump.

Thanks for the location on those lift point - I see what they are now.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the engine out. Unfortunately,
my bug's body and frame is in the garage so have to do all this stuff
outside - hoping for no rain.

Sounds like you're mostly there. As you have found, the AC and PS
pumps can be moved out of the way; no need to disconnect. No need to
remove alternator or intake manifold. Disconnect engine wiring
harness, fuel lines, brake booster, etc. Remove the radiator, heater
lines, engine snubber, starter, and the other upper bell-housing bolt.
Disconnect the exhaust "Y" pipe (don't forget to disconnect the O2
sensor), motor mount nuts, and lower bell-housing nuts from below.
This is an automatic car? The flex plate bolts (4 of 'em) are accessed
thru the timing hole. When you move the engine forward prior to
lifting it out, be sure you do not inadvertently pull the torque
converter forward. This is real easy to do, and it's not particularly
obvious that it is out of position. However, you will severely damage
the transmission if you attempt to re-install the engine with it out.
I'd suggest that you carefully measure the position of the torque
converter in relation to the bell-housing before attempting to
separate the engine. Briefly, the torque converter has two concentric
shafts; the inner one drives the gear train, the outer drives the
pump. It is the connection to the pump that is the issue. Should you
accidentally move the converter, keep trying different orientations
until you get it to slide all of the way into place. The difference
between good and bad is only about 1/4 inch, so do be careful.
FWIW, I haven't found the engine "leveler" to be of much use on the
Soobies. I generally use a bit of light chain to lift the engine
roughly into position, and then basically grab the engine and ease it
into position by hand. This sounds kinda macho, but the engine is
fairly light, and this allows you to be reasonably gentle as you "feel
around" for the correct alignment. You should be able to get the
bell-housing flange right up against the engine this way; if there is
a stubborn 1/4 inch gap, DO NOT FORCE THE ISSUE. Rather, lift the
engine back out and verify the torque converter position.

ByeBye! S.


Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Remco]

Hi all
I am getting ready to lift the engine out of my daughter's impreza and
was wondering what the best place is to lift this engine from.
I see threaded holes on the cylinder heads so could probably bolt "I"
bolts into them but is that the preferred way? I have a load leveller
and was wondering if the best way was mount it side to side or back to
front? As far as can be seen, I don't see any hook points anywhere.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Remco

Just to keep you guys updated, today I got the engine out (was waiting
for some decent weather).

From the looks of it, the driveplate bolts must have just walked out

because of not being secured correctly, as suspected. Three of the
holes in the torque converter/flywheel are clear, one has a snapped off
bolt in it - I think I can get it out, so it is soaking in kroil right
now. I'll try to nurse it out later.
Other than that, I think a new driveplate and I'll be good to go. Will
probably also replace the water pump as it looks like it is leaking, so
will also do the timing belt while I am there.

Appreciate the help, guys.
Remco