Adventure changing my spark plugs on a 2001 Legacy L.

Ron (archive)

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I just finished changing my plugs on my 4-cyl. 2001 Legacy L. I had an annoying problem that I never saw on the internet. I tried to read all I could find on the internet, to be prepared, but something new always seems to happen.

I found that the spark plug socket attachment for my extension wrench kept staying behind in the cylinder, every time I finished tightening a new plug. That was because the piece of rubber that holds the plug was stronger than the connection between the spark plug attachment and the 6 in. extension of my 3/8" wrench.

I went to Sears and they recommended getting a locking extension bar. I bought one, but when I got home, I found out that it did not lock on to my spark plug socket, so I had the same problem. I had to go back to Sears and get their brand of spark plug socket, which did lock on to the locking extension bar.

Then, the job finally was very easy to finish. I wonder if locking socket pieces are used by most people, or if my sockets were just much looser than average.

Maybe this can save someone a headache. Solving the loose socket problem was about 5 times harder than actually changing the plugs.

Ron
 
Ron said:
I just finished changing my plugs on my 4-cyl. 2001 Legacy L. I had an annoying problem that I never saw on the internet. I tried to read all I could find on the internet, to be prepared, but something new always seems to happen.

I found that the spark plug socket attachment for my extension wrench kept staying behind in the cylinder, every time I finished tightening a new plug. That was because the piece of rubber that holds the plug was stronger than the connection between the spark plug attachment and the 6 in. extension of my 3/8" wrench.

I went to Sears and they recommended getting a locking extension bar. I bought one, but when I got home, I found out that it did not lock on to my spark plug socket, so I had the same problem. I had to go back to Sears and get their brand of spark plug socket, which did lock on to the locking extension bar.

Then, the job finally was very easy to finish. I wonder if locking socket pieces are used by most people, or if my sockets were just much looser than average.

Maybe this can save someone a headache. Solving the loose socket problem was about 5 times harder than actually changing the plugs.

Ron

Could you have removed or 'compromised' the rubber in the socket? Did you need the plug to be retained by the rubber?

Carl
 
I actually had an old one with the rubber out, but I wanted it in since the spark plug cylinder is a downwards incline and I thought that I could more easily start the thread with it held by the rubber. Without the rubber, I thought the plug might just fall down towards the thread, possibly causing damage and making it a lot harder to start screwing it in.

The best solution turned out to be using the rubber together with a locking extension. It just took me a while to find out.

In the old days (dating back to my 1969 Slant Six Plymouth), there was no long tube and you could just pull the spark plug socket off with any pair of pliers. This is my first spark plug change with a long cylinder.

Ron
 
I actually had an old one with the rubber out, but I wanted it in since the spark plug cylinder is a downwards incline and I thought that I could more easily start the thread with it held by the rubber. Without the rubber, I thought the plug might just fall down towards the thread, possibly causing damage and making it a lot harder to start screwing it in.

The best solution turned out to be using the rubber together with a locking extension. It just took me a while to find out.

In the old days (dating back to my 1969 Slant Six Plymouth), there was no long tube and you could just pull the spark plug socket off with any pair of pliers. This is my first spark plug change with a long cylinder.

Ron

All my plug-sockets have the rubber pulled out (less likely to break a plug), and I start the plugs into the threads with a piece of fuel- line over the end of the plug. A longer piece of fuel line can even be used as a curveable hand-driver.

Dave
 
Ron said:
I just finished changing my plugs on my 4-cyl. 2001 Legacy L. I had an annoying problem that I never saw on the internet. I tried to read all I could find on the internet, to be prepared, but something new always seems to happen.

I found that the spark plug socket attachment for my extension wrench kept staying behind in the cylinder, every time I finished tightening a new plug. That was because the piece of rubber that holds the plug was stronger than the connection between the spark plug attachment and the 6 in. extension of my 3/8" wrench.

I went to Sears and they recommended getting a locking extension bar. I bought one, but when I got home, I found out that it did not lock on to my spark plug socket, so I had the same problem. I had to go back to Sears and get their brand of spark plug socket, which did lock on to the locking extension bar.

Then, the job finally was very easy to finish. I wonder if locking socket pieces are used by most people, or if my sockets were just much looser than average.

Maybe this can save someone a headache. Solving the loose socket problem was about 5 times harder than actually changing the plugs.

Ron

When installing down into a deep head I often use the end of the spark plug boot and turn in by hand. I just need it to thread a little and then use the socket to tighten to torque. On the H4 since its a horizontal installation I just use the socket without the rubber insert. I also found that a T-plug wrench will work well as the rubber will stay in the socket.
 
> :>I just finished changing my plugs on my 4-cyl. 2001 Legacy L. I had an
> annoying problem that I never saw on the internet. I tried to read all
> I could find on the internet, to be prepared, but something new always
> seems to happen.
>
> I found that the spark plug socket attachment for my extension wrench
> kept staying behind in the cylinder, every time I finished tightening
> a new plug. That was because the piece of rubber that holds the plug
> was stronger than the connection between the spark plug attachment and
> the 6 in. extension of my 3/8" wrench.
>
> I went to Sears and they recommended getting a locking extension bar.
...

When I changed the plugs in my 2003 Outback, I just used masking tape to secure the plug socket to the extension. This was strong enough to keep the socket from staying in with the plug.
 
I usually use a magnetic extension pick-up tool to carefully lower the plug into the cylinder until it hits bottom, then use a flat blade screwdriver to push it off the end and align it in the clyinder enough to get a socket on it. Then once I slide the socket over it, I turn it counter clockwise until it seems that it has lined up, then I turn it clockwise to screw it in. I only started using the magnetic tool because it is the easiest way to get the plugs OUT without a special socket, then I had it there when it was time to put them in.
 

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