1996 Subaru Legacy Outback Stalling at 1 Mile or 5 Minutes

[Uraprat]

Dear All,

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback with 100,000 miles that has
begun to stall after driving approximately 1 mile or 5 minutes the
first time each day. The Check Engine light comes on and may stay on
for a while (but it eventually turns itself off) and the engine begins
to run very rough (as if on maybe 2 or 3 of the 4 cylinders). If you
can shift the automatic transmission into neutral fast enough and step
on the gas hard, you may be able to avoid the stall, but its a hit or
miss situation. When the stall occurs all batery powered items seem
fine (no lights dimming or anything). After it gets its almost daily
stall out of the way, it seems to run fine for the rest of the day.
There are some days when this does not happen, but its rare especially
since it has been below freezing each night and I have been driving in
the early part of the day. Would you have any idea what could be
causing this?

Thank you, (e-mail address removed)

 

[johninKY]

First thing you should do is to see what trouble codes are now stored in
the ECU.

 

[rwessley]

I agree. Check the codes first. I had a problem similar to this and
it ended up being the Coolant Temperature sensor. I have a 1995 Legacy
L 2.2

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

I'm having a similar problem with my 1982 GL Wagon. On days where the
temperature is approx 30-45 deg in the morning it starts and runs fine for
about the first mile or so and then every time we come to a stop it won't
maintain idle and conks out. After about 3-4 miles it runs usually fine
although now and then it will exhibit the problem further down the road. On
mornings when the temperature is cold, even below zero the problem usually
doesn't show up. Sure would like to find the soure of this problem. Ideas?

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[ujduche]

These symptoms you describe for your 82 GL Wagon sound very similiar to a
condition known as Carb Freezing.

At near freezing temperature, the air entering the carbs carries with it
some moisture; as the air is accelerated, it's temperature drops below
freezing. The moisture in the air freezes, disrupting the flow, and the car
stalls. After sitting for a few minutes, the carbs warm up enough from
engine heat to melt the ice, and the engine will start again. I've heard
about this happening more on motorcycles than on cars.

It doesn't occur below freezing because the air is not crossing over from
above freezing to below freezing.

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

These symptoms you describe for your 82 GL Wagon sound very similiar to a
condition known as Carb Freezing.

At near freezing temperature, the air entering the carbs carries with it
some moisture; as the air is accelerated, it's temperature drops below
freezing. The moisture in the air freezes, disrupting the flow, and the car
stalls. After sitting for a few minutes, the carbs warm up enough from
engine heat to melt the ice, and the engine will start again. I've heard
about this happening more on motorcycles than on cars.

It doesn't occur below freezing because the air is not crossing over from
above freezing to below freezing.

But it doesn't have to sit a few minutes to get the restart. As SOON as it
dies it can easily be restarted however one needs to push on the gas pedal a
little to keep the idle up and th engine running.

If it is indeed some sort of carb freezing issue what is the fix?

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[Mike]

If that's the case...

Most model cars have a small anti-freeze line that runs through the
intake area just prior to the carbs to pre-heat that cold winter air just a
scosh more so it doesn't freeze due to the ventuir effect and cause
carb-icing.... I would ensure that it wasn't "bypassed", a common technique
used by many to get a little colder air in for those hot (think Texas in the
summer) climates where warming the air further is just nonsense.

Mike

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

If that's the case...

Most model cars have a small anti-freeze line that runs through the
intake area just prior to the carbs to pre-heat that cold winter air just a
scosh more so it doesn't freeze due to the ventuir effect and cause
carb-icing.... I would ensure that it wasn't "bypassed", a common technique
used by many to get a little colder air in for those hot (think Texas in the
summer) climates where warming the air further is just nonsense.

Mike

On the 82: Well I just discovered that the vacuum motor which controls
whether heated or fresh air enters the air cleaner is bad. When the engine
first starts it should allow heated air to enter the air cleaner. Not sure
if that will fix my problem but since it is defective and is leaking vacuum
I'll start with that.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
*
* To avoid getting a lot of SPAM junk mail, I have altered my REPLY-TO
* address. PLEASE remove the leading "RUBBISH" from my REPLY address.
* Any Email sent to the address without removing "RUBBISH" will
* automatically be discarded without me even seeing it.

 

[SnatchCritic]

Have the MAF sensor checked out. I had similar issues (with a few
others) for about a month untill it crapped out on me. Look into a
used part now, unless you want to pay full price for a new one. My
used one cost 1/5 of new and is running fine (knock on wood).

-SC

Dear All,

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback with 100,000 miles that has
begun to stall after driving approximately 1 mile or 5 minutes the
first time each day. The Check Engine light comes on and may stay on
for a while (but it eventually turns itself off) and the engine begins
to run very rough (as if on maybe 2 or 3 of the 4 cylinders). If you
can shift the automatic transmission into neutral fast enough and step
on the gas hard, you may be able to avoid the stall, but its a hit or
miss situation. When the stall occurs all batery powered items seem
fine (no lights dimming or anything). After it gets its almost daily
stall out of the way, it seems to run fine for the rest of the day.
There are some days when this does not happen, but its rare especially
since it has been below freezing each night and I have been driving in
the early part of the day. Would you have any idea what could be
causing this?

Thank you, (e-mail address removed)

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