Repaired mine on a 05 Baja. Might be like some others but not sure.
Just a FYI: I'm working on my 2005 Subaru Baja with this problem. You can't reset the Trip A meter or change to Trip B. Removed the dash and then the Instrument Cluster. After a little troubleshooting, there is a Tactile Switch mounted Through holes of the circuit board. The Trip Reset Stem/Plunger pushes down onto this little Tactile Switch. On the Baja, you can see on the circuit board, where the switch is solder in. I used my Multimeter, set to Ohms, and measured from one side to the other. You can see on the circuit board that each side of the contacts are connected by solder runs. So you connect your Leads to opposite sides and Push in on the Trip Reset Stem and see what your Ohms are. It should read close to 0. My was floating around 40k ohms. So I figured the internal contacts of the switch were worn off......Bad switch.
So after looking at this a little more, I would not even attempt to disassemble this circuit board from the Gauges. Unless you've done it before, DON'T do it....would be my suggestion. I would hate to screw up the Gauges. So, what I did is remove the Tactile Switch by GENTLY prying up the bottom side of the circuit board, by using simple golf tees. I also used some cutters to cut away some pieces of the plastic, around the area of the switch, so I could get to the switch a little better. There are also some White Tabs coming up, out of the circuit board, in the center and around the switch, that you can kinda push those down on BUT not through the board. This gives it a little more space to push the golf tees under the circuit board. Use anything to push under it BUT don't go much higher than the width of the tees AND ALSO make sure you don't damage any components under the circuit board, as you push the Tees underneath.
With the circuit board raised up a little, I desoldered the 4 leads of the switch, coming through the board. Then carefully using some pretty small needle nose pliers, I gently gripped the switch, underneath and then gently tapped around the 4 leads with my soldering iron. This would loosen up the solder joints of the switch, enough so I could kinda rock the switch back and forth and pull it down, out of the holes of the circuit board. You don't want to HOLD your soldering iron on the contacts to long, as too much heat can damage the circuit board or the part.
Part out: Can't see a part number but I have worked with these Tactile Switches a lot. Cheaply made. These type, I think they just simply spray a carbon solution onto a rubber tip plunger and over 1000s of uses, the carbon just wears off. At that point, it can't make contact to a circuit, inside the switch and fails. These switches are SPST-NO, single pole single throw, normally open contacts. Anyway, the switch measures at 7.5mmX7.5mmX5mm. So it's 7.5mm square and 5mm from the bottom of the switch to the top of the rubber plunger. And these 8x8 switches are a little hard to find. But I did find some on Amazon. They don't have to be exact, but pretty damn close. 7.8mm maybe. I would think the height could be close too. I see a LOT of the 12x12. I just don't see those working at all, just for the fact that your soldering holes are only around 8 to 9 mm apart. You would effectively cover up the soldering holes on the circuit board. And the others I saw a lot of, were the 6X6mm. A person might be able to get those to work, if they can bend the leads on the switch, to the point of getting them up through the holes and still keep the part centered. If the Leads are long enough too.
I did find a place you might be able to order them from. Digikey. They didn't have the exact measurements but close. One part number is MJTP1119. It is a 7.2mmX7.2mmX5mm. It should work and fit through the holes nicely. Of course the Leads on the switch are offset. Across from each other, they are around 8mm apart but the Leads next to each other are 5mm apart. The original measured right at 7.5X7.5X5mm, the 5mm being from the bottom of the switch, to the top of the rubber plunger. But Digikey use to have a minimum order that was crazy. Another part number maybe: ST5.0LF160Q might work. So I wound up ordering those off of Amazon.
I will upload some pics, if the site will let me. The PDF file on the MJTP1119 has the about exact measurements. Hope this helps some people.
Just a FYI: I'm working on my 2005 Subaru Baja with this problem. You can't reset the Trip A meter or change to Trip B. Removed the dash and then the Instrument Cluster. After a little troubleshooting, there is a Tactile Switch mounted Through holes of the circuit board. The Trip Reset Stem/Plunger pushes down onto this little Tactile Switch. On the Baja, you can see on the circuit board, where the switch is solder in. I used my Multimeter, set to Ohms, and measured from one side to the other. You can see on the circuit board that each side of the contacts are connected by solder runs. So you connect your Leads to opposite sides and Push in on the Trip Reset Stem and see what your Ohms are. It should read close to 0. My was floating around 40k ohms. So I figured the internal contacts of the switch were worn off......Bad switch.
So after looking at this a little more, I would not even attempt to disassemble this circuit board from the Gauges. Unless you've done it before, DON'T do it....would be my suggestion. I would hate to screw up the Gauges. So, what I did is remove the Tactile Switch by GENTLY prying up the bottom side of the circuit board, by using simple golf tees. I also used some cutters to cut away some pieces of the plastic, around the area of the switch, so I could get to the switch a little better. There are also some White Tabs coming up, out of the circuit board, in the center and around the switch, that you can kinda push those down on BUT not through the board. This gives it a little more space to push the golf tees under the circuit board. Use anything to push under it BUT don't go much higher than the width of the tees AND ALSO make sure you don't damage any components under the circuit board, as you push the Tees underneath.
With the circuit board raised up a little, I desoldered the 4 leads of the switch, coming through the board. Then carefully using some pretty small needle nose pliers, I gently gripped the switch, underneath and then gently tapped around the 4 leads with my soldering iron. This would loosen up the solder joints of the switch, enough so I could kinda rock the switch back and forth and pull it down, out of the holes of the circuit board. You don't want to HOLD your soldering iron on the contacts to long, as too much heat can damage the circuit board or the part.
Part out: Can't see a part number but I have worked with these Tactile Switches a lot. Cheaply made. These type, I think they just simply spray a carbon solution onto a rubber tip plunger and over 1000s of uses, the carbon just wears off. At that point, it can't make contact to a circuit, inside the switch and fails. These switches are SPST-NO, single pole single throw, normally open contacts. Anyway, the switch measures at 7.5mmX7.5mmX5mm. So it's 7.5mm square and 5mm from the bottom of the switch to the top of the rubber plunger. And these 8x8 switches are a little hard to find. But I did find some on Amazon. They don't have to be exact, but pretty damn close. 7.8mm maybe. I would think the height could be close too. I see a LOT of the 12x12. I just don't see those working at all, just for the fact that your soldering holes are only around 8 to 9 mm apart. You would effectively cover up the soldering holes on the circuit board. And the others I saw a lot of, were the 6X6mm. A person might be able to get those to work, if they can bend the leads on the switch, to the point of getting them up through the holes and still keep the part centered. If the Leads are long enough too.
I did find a place you might be able to order them from. Digikey. They didn't have the exact measurements but close. One part number is MJTP1119. It is a 7.2mmX7.2mmX5mm. It should work and fit through the holes nicely. Of course the Leads on the switch are offset. Across from each other, they are around 8mm apart but the Leads next to each other are 5mm apart. The original measured right at 7.5X7.5X5mm, the 5mm being from the bottom of the switch, to the top of the rubber plunger. But Digikey use to have a minimum order that was crazy. Another part number maybe: ST5.0LF160Q might work. So I wound up ordering those off of Amazon.
I will upload some pics, if the site will let me. The PDF file on the MJTP1119 has the about exact measurements. Hope this helps some people.