Rhbuxton said:
car and it is fine. I am starting to wonder if the engine wasn't air locked
when I changed the coolant. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a
Hi,
Sounds like you nailed it: air in the system's not unusual. Some Subies
have an air bleed valve on/near the radiator. Sorry, I don't remember
which ones, but if you tell us what car you're working on, I'm sure
somebody can help more.
If your car's like mine, an older one without a bleed valve, you can try
what "usually" (note the quotes) works for me. After draining the
system, I refill it about halfway, then start the car with the radiator
cap off. Be sure the heater's on full (most Subies I've seen have a
constant flow heater, not a water valve, but it's still a good idea),
let the engine run at idle to warm up. Watch the water level in the
radiator, and add water slowly as it goes down, but keep the level below
the height of the top radiator hose fitting so air can escape. By the
time the t-stat opens and you feel the top radiator hose getting warm,
you should have most of the air out. Shut off the engine and let it
cool. When it's cool, slowly fill the radiator to the top, and fill the
overflow tank. Put the cap on, start the engine and run it again until
it gets up to temp. If everything's ok, then drive around the block a
coupla times and watch the gauge. If it's still doing fine, you should
be good to go, but check the level in the overflow tank daily for a few
days until you're sure.
OTOH, if you're still seeing things get a little too warm, let the
engine cool, siphon some coolant out of the radiator, to below the top
hose fitting, start the engine with the radiator cap off, and repeat the
drill. Sometimes it's necessary to "force" the air out by running the
engine up to speed a few times, but expect plenty of splashing coolant
all over if you have to resort to that method, and you'll want to clean
it up immediately to keep from endangering any pets who are attracted to
it.
Hope this helps,
Rick