oil burning realted, engine health checking

[alf]

Hi,

After writing previous post decided to ask one more question.
I noted that after 5K miles of running on dealer changed oil my 85K
miles 2002 Outback takes some oil. Had to add about 3/4 quart today.
Changing the oil anyway tomorrow but wanted to know how bad it is so
added it.

Question: what simple steps can I take to find out the engine health.
Does the compression check make sense when the engine is burning the oil?

I do a lot of highway driving at 80mph and do not avoid readlining my
Subie - I mean when I accelerate I do it at 80-90% of engine capability.
But I do not kill it either. Just sporty, dynamic driving.

I checked visually - engine seems to be clean, no leaks. What else could
I do?

 

[alf]

Make certain the PCV valve and hoses are clean and operating correctly.

Thx for the hint. But is it possible to DIY for above? Also did some
research on our group and 3/4 quarter per 5000K miles does not seem that
dramatic bad any more.

Investigate using a higher viscosity oil. If you now use 5w-30, try a
5w-40 or a 10w40.

I am planning to switch to Rotella Synthetic T 5W-40 (Chicago climate) -
so it seems to be right viscosity now. Have been changing oil every 5K
miles at dealership (which for whatever reason charged $10-12 per oil
change) since bought the Outback with 5K miles on odometer. Will be
checking oil every few hundreds miles since then to monitor the oil burning.

If you contunue to feel the usage is too high - a compression/'leakdown'
test may find a broken ring or ???

Do you know how much (ballpark) it cost typically?

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Hi,

After writing previous post decided to ask one more question.
I noted that after 5K miles of running on dealer changed oil my 85K
miles 2002 Outback takes some oil. Had to add about 3/4 quart today.
Changing the oil anyway tomorrow but wanted to know how bad it is so
added it.

Question: what simple steps can I take to find out the engine health.
Does the compression check make sense when the engine is burning the oil?

I do a lot of highway driving at 80mph and do not avoid readlining my
Subie - I mean when I accelerate I do it at 80-90% of engine capability.
But I do not kill it either. Just sporty, dynamic driving.

I checked visually - engine seems to be clean, no leaks. What else could
I do?

Make certain the PCV valve and hoses are clean and operating correctly.
Investigate using a higher viscosity oil. If you now use 5w-30, try a
5w-40 or a 10w40.
If you contunue to feel the usage is too high - a compression/'leakdown'
test may find a broken ring or ???

Carl

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Thx for the hint. But is it possible to DIY for above? Also did some
research on our group and 3/4 quarter per 5000K miles does not seem that
dramatic bad any more.



I am planning to switch to Rotella Synthetic T 5W-40 (Chicago climate) -
so it seems to be right viscosity now. Have been changing oil every 5K
miles at dealership (which for whatever reason charged $10-12 per oil
change) since bought the Outback with 5K miles on odometer. Will be
checking oil every few hundreds miles since then to monitor the oil
burning.



Do you know how much (ballpark) it cost typically?

Your consumption rate is of no concern. That's not to say different
viscosity oil and PCV mauntenance isn't important - but 'high'
consumption, while very subjective, would 1 qt./1000 miles or so.

If you are having the maint. schedule performed at a dealership, they
should inspect/replace the PCV valve on schedule. As for diy, yes, very
possible. An aftermarket repair manual (Haynes, Chilton) is helpful. Or
someone here or at www.usmb.net , www.nasioc.com , etc. could perhaps
find a linkk to a procedure.

Don't worry.

Carl

 

[Edward Hayes]

In addition to what has been said I would check my oil level just
after the dealer service. Too often you may find the oil level not at
the top line/hole. I'm not in favor of upping the viscosity until I've
check out other possible causes. My Forester consumes a measured 4-5
oz. every 5,000 miles. To say it's ok to use 1 quart/1000 miles is a
dealer/manufactures excuse to not do warranty work to find the cause.
My opinion. Ed

 

[Rick Courtright]

I checked visually - engine seems to be clean, no leaks. What else > could I do?

Hi,

And now you know why they put dipsticks in cars...

There are TOO MANY variables affecting oil consumption and you gave TOO
LITTLE info to offer a judgment other than "so?"

For example, if you're using 5W-30 oil, running at 80 or so, redlining
the engine frequently enough to keep the spiders blasted out of the
exhaust, and doing it in my neighborhood during the summer (105-110 deg
F is "normal"), I'd consider your consumption "lower than normal" for an
engine w/ that kind of mileage. Others would think it's "high" for THEIR
conditions. While lots of people think an engine should use NO oil, if
it's that tight, it's probably going to wear quickly to a point where it
uses at least a little.

I'd follow the advice to keep the PCV system clean (if it hasn't been
done, it's probably about time to replace the PCV valve--they're cheap)
and you can experiment w/ different oils, both brand and type (dino or
synthetic) and weights. Remember it wasn't THAT long ago that 5W-30 oils
were NOT recommended for continuous highway use by many mfrs, including
Subie. You might want to compare a 10W-30, a 5W-40 or maybe even a
15W-40 if your low temps aren't bad (we can use any of these all year in
my area, but we also don't have a clue what "cold" really is!) Even
within a given weight, you'll find different consumption rates from
brand to brand, and engine to engine.

As others have said, you have nothing to worry about. Spirited driving
costs: fuel, oil, tires and brakes all work harder and last fewer miles
than with moderate freeway cruising. AND, as suggested, make sure you
know where the oil level registers immediately after an oil change so
you know you're comparing apples to apples: if the dealer shorted you a
half quart (not unusual), then you really only used 1/4 qt/5000 miles
(within Ed H's range), while if they overfilled you a half quart (ALSO
not unusual--many "add" a bit so those owners who DON'T know what those
dipsticks are for don't run short within a given OCI) then you might
have used far more than you thought! Just another reason I do my own oil
changes...

Also, on that "energy conserving" sticker from your other post: consider
it advertising hype! Your driving style defines (or defies) "energy
conserving" far more than whatever infinitesimal change there is in the
oil. The API S-rating IS important, and virtually ALL oils on the market
that meet a current standard (SM on the last jug I bought) will handle
prior standards, such as the SH you mentioned.

Rick

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

In addition to what has been said I would check my oil level just
after the dealer service. Too often you may find the oil level not at
the top line/hole. I'm not in favor of upping the viscosity until I've
check out other possible causes. My Forester consumes a measured 4-5
oz. every 5,000 miles. To say it's ok to use 1 quart/1000 miles is a
dealer/manufactures excuse to not do warranty work to find the cause.
My opinion. Ed

Oh you're certainly right about the 1qt/1Kmiles usage - I'm just using
that as a figure everyone (except as you mention, some dealers/manufs.)
would agree is 'high'. So when does 'moderate' come in? what is 'normal'
? very subjective.

Carl

 

[AS]

Compression is not a good indication for oil consumption. As a matter
of fact, the excess oil in the combustion chamber (rings, etc) sometimes
increases the compression readings.

The best way to determine oil consumption is by looking at the
sparkplugs after the car has run for several thousand miles on clean plugs.

Best of lucks

 

[alf]

All,

thx for all the tips - will try to use them. Also just switched to
Rottela Synthetic T 5W-40 (hope it will be good for cold in the winter
and hot in the summer in Chicago). Besides wet hand, all went smooth.


Last question, what is the torque for oil filter itself. I change oil in
my bike, Yamaha provided it for people doing it on their own in then
manual, so it eliminates second thought.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Last question, what is the torque for oil filter itself. I change oil in
my bike, Yamaha provided it for people doing it on their own in then

Hi,

While I've seen a FEW auto mfrs recommend a torque setting, most don't.
The ones I've seen (others may have different experiences) were usually
for those "why in the world did you put the filter THERE?" situations
where one must use a cap wrench both to remove AND to tighten the new
filter. I'd also expect to see more torque figures show up as mfrs
return to the replaceable cartridge filters--Saturn has on at least some
models, and I understand others may soon--not getting the canister on
tight with that style can be LOADS of fun (don't ask how I learned
that!" Just for giggles, I wonder how they'll sell as "new" an idea
that's been gone for a half century?

In general, if you can get your hands on the filter to tighten it, the
recommendation most frequently seen is 3/4 turn after the gasket
contacts the metal base. In simple terms, get it as tight as you can w/
one hand! Also, be sure to put a coupla drops of oil on the gasket
before installation to help tighten and later remove the filter.

Best of luck!

Rick

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

alf wrote:




Hi,

While I've seen a FEW auto mfrs recommend a torque setting, most don't.
The ones I've seen (others may have different experiences) were usually
for those "why in the world did you put the filter THERE?" situations
where one must use a cap wrench both to remove AND to tighten the new
filter. I'd also expect to see more torque figures show up as mfrs
return to the replaceable cartridge filters--Saturn has on at least some
models, and I understand others may soon--not getting the canister on
tight with that style can be LOADS of fun (don't ask how I learned
that!" Just for giggles, I wonder how they'll sell as "new" an idea
that's been gone for a half century?

In general, if you can get your hands on the filter to tighten it, the
recommendation most frequently seen is 3/4 turn after the gasket
contacts the metal base. In simple terms, get it as tight as you can w/
one hand! Also, be sure to put a coupla drops of oil on the gasket
before installation to help tighten and later remove the filter.

Best of luck!

Rick

Plus, make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter! Some folks
pre-fill the filter with oil.

Carl