oh boy. spark plug fell out of my wife's car.

D

Dave Goodman

Well, the #1 cylinder head thread stripped . I tried the Auto Zone insert
but it wouldn't bite - I guess the hole is still too small. Local wisdom
suggests removing the head to rethread to avoid chips and potential damage
to zero clearance piston. Any comments ? Oh, yeah, its a 1999 forester with
the EJ25 engine.

Dave
 
Dave Goodman said:
Well, the #1 cylinder head thread stripped . I tried the Auto Zone insert
but it wouldn't bite - I guess the hole is still too small. Local wisdom
suggests removing the head to rethread to avoid chips and potential damage
to zero clearance piston. Any comments ? Oh, yeah, its a 1999 forester
with
the EJ25 engine.

Dave
Maybe the same people that came up with the "Coolant Conditioner" have
designed a Spark Plug thread conditioner too...
In all honesty, you can drill the hole(use the recommended size drill )
CAREFULLY/SLOWLY from outside.Use a shopvac to pull any chips out the top of
the cylinder.Remember..the aluminum chips are softer than the
rings/walls/valves.
When you insert the "Helicoil" IT *MUST* BE PROPERLY POSITIONED! If done
properly, it will be stronger then the original hole.Do it correctly as you
get ONE chance.
This is why you use a "Clicker" wrench AND "Anti-Seize Compound" on ALL
sparkplugs.Don't go with that...turn 1/2 more turn after it's snug crap.
Chances are the last person to replace them fractured the threads, it
eventually blows out.They don't need to be in as tight as wheel lugnuts.
 
This is why you use a "Clicker" wrench AND "Anti-Seize Compound" on
ALL sparkplugs.Don't go with that...turn 1/2 more turn after it's snug
crap. Chances are the last person to replace them fractured the
threads, it eventually blows out.They don't need to be in as tight as
wheel lugnuts.

And forget about buying your sparkplugs at a "big box"! I've run into too
many factory seconds. They may be selling the same name brands but when
the profit margin gets thin so does the QC.

Later,
Joe
 
Well, the #1 cylinder head thread stripped . I tried the Auto Zone insert
but it wouldn't bite - I guess the hole is still too small. Local wisdom
suggests removing the head to rethread to avoid chips and potential damage
to zero clearance piston. Any comments ? Oh, yeah, its a 1999 forester with
the EJ25 engine.

I heard this from a mechanic:

Shove pantyhose into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Drill.
Remove pantyhose.

theory: the shavings get caught in the hose.
 
Well, the #1 cylinder head thread stripped . I tried the Auto Zone insert
but it wouldn't bite - I guess the hole is still too small. Local wisdom
suggests removing the head to rethread to avoid chips and potential damage
to zero clearance piston. Any comments ? Oh, yeah, its a 1999 forester with
the EJ25 engine.

Dave

I think I would grease up the drill bit to trap the chips, but would
test it somehow to be sure it worked. Stuffing the combustion chamber
sounds good, but I'd want something sticky also.
 
And forget about buying your sparkplugs at a "big box"! I've run into too
many factory seconds. They may be selling the same name brands but when
the profit margin gets thin so does the QC.

What does a factory-second plug look like?
 
What does a factory-second plug look like?

Exactly like a regular plug, which is why they're such a problem.

The ones with obvious defects get tossed. No major manufacturer wants
junk being sold with their brand on it. Then there are the others.

Most manufacturers are constantly updating and upgrading their production
machinery. The newest machines can hold the tightest tolerances. These
machines also have the highest priced "production time" because they're
still being paid for. By the time a machine is paid for it isn't holding
the dimensional tolerances it did when new, but is still producing a
usable product at a lower price than the new machine. Eventually it
wears to the point that the scrap count wipes out the savings and it gets
sold to a third world company making "odd brand" plugs.

The plugs on sale in a "big box" are being sold on a razor thin margin.
Even if it's a name brand, it's the least expensive production that
they're still willing to put their name on. While you may not be able to
tell a difference with the naked eyeball, if you sit down with a thread
micrometer and a pitch gage you'll spot it in a few minutes. You'll find
threads that are over/under sized, and not concentric with the plugs
axis. Sometimes you actually *can* see a problem. Hold a straight edge
against the threads so it lines up with the side electrode. The gap
between the straight edge and the electrode should be greater than the
depth of the threads. I've seen side electrodes welded on so far out
there was no way you could screw the plug into the hole without damaging
threads in the head.

Later,
Joe
 

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