manual or automatic?

[grape]

plan to own a impreza 2.5rs wagon, never drove a manual before, but 'd like
to.

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to
buy a manual car, is that true???

also, is pre-owned WRX a good option? the price is only around $21,000(CDN)
where new WRX is about 35000.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to

Hi,

All I can say about that is I drive a manual in SoCal traffic every day,
and never notice it, but after nearly 40 years, I'm sure I've learned to
ignore a lot. Since different cars have different clutches, and each
person's got a different tolerance level for comfort/pain, only you can
tell for sure. Personally, I find an auto's got more drawbacks than
drawing cards overall, but you'll find opinions cross the entire
spectrum there. I'll stick with my manuals as long as possible...

As for a used WRX, if it IS a manual, I'd expect the clutch (and
possibly the gearbox) to have some wear. It's not the kind of car most
people are likely to drive sedately. I'd suggest you have it checked
carefully before buying if that's your choice.

Good luck,

Rick

 

[Mark Carroll]

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to
buy a manual car, is that true???[/QUOTE]

No, it isn't. I've driven various manual cars in traffic jams, stuck
in stop-and-go traffic up and down hills, and it's not been a problem
once you're used to it. My first manual was back in 1991 and, still,
both of our present cars are manual - my wife and I both prefer them.

If you're new to manual, I would recommend just a couple of lessons,
at least so you can confidently pull away up a hill without stalling
or rolling back or revving way too loudly or whatever. A lot of people
/think/ they can drive stick-shift but make it pretty obvious that
they can't.

also, is pre-owned WRX a good option? the price is only around $21,000(CDN)
where new WRX is about 35000.

I would guess so, if that's not many years old.

-- Mark

 

[Todd H.]

plan to own a impreza 2.5rs wagon, never drove a manual before, but 'd like
to.

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to
buy a manual car, is that true???

also, is pre-owned WRX a good option? the price is only around $21,000(CDN)
where new WRX is about 35000.

In my younger years you couldn't get me away from a manual. They're
fun, tend to be a little peppier off the line nad all that.

Then I moved to Chicago.

As Click and Clack say, "Never by a used car from a male under the age
of 30."

Best Regards,

 

[Paul]

I've driven manual cars for almost thirty years. I would certainly
prefer an automatic in stop-and-go traffic. I can't imagine anyone
preferring otherwise. "Clutch in - shift into first - clutch out - creep
a bit - clutch in - shift to neutral - clutch out" gets old real quick.
Someone with weak legs would find it positively painful.

For every other situation, though, I prefer a manual. In the case of
many models from Subaru, the question is more serious since
only the manual transmissions are true all-wheel-drive. If you can
afford a WRX, STi, Legacy GT or high-end Outback then you
can get true AWD with an automatic transmission, otherwise it's
only part-time, being FWD most of the time. This is the case
for regular Legacys and Imprezas as well as all Foresters.

If you can't get hold of a manual car to practice on enough to get
used to driving it then I think you should stick with an automatic.

If you'll be driving in snow (why else would you want a Subaru
it would be useful to try both the automatic and manual RS's in
snow to see the difference between the two forms of four wheel
drive. Either version of the WRX should be great, but as Rick
Courtright wrote I'd also be wary of buying a used WRX.

Used Subarus are also a bit risky due to the problems they had
with clutches, head gaskets and piston slap. New models are
supposted to be better (I'm counting on it).

A used Legacy GT automatic in great shape might be a
nice choice.

 

[KLS]

As for a used WRX, if it IS a manual, I'd expect the clutch (and
possibly the gearbox) to have some wear. It's not the kind of car most
people are likely to drive sedately.

Actually, most people drive manual transmission cars incompetently, so
you should assume that the clutch in this one, especially since it's a
sporty car, won't last a lot longer. Save the $700 for a new clutch,
starting now. My other half had to replace her clutch at 79k miles
because the previous owner didn't treat it well, and neither did she,
but she's doing much better with the new clutch after that expensive
lesson. The clutch in my 98 Audi is still going perfectly at 89k
miles, and I expect never to replace it for as long as I own the car,
which will be probably another 10 years.

 

[Rick Courtright]

but she's doing much better with the new clutch after that expensive
lesson. The clutch in my 98 Audi is still going perfectly at 89k
miles, and I expect never to replace it for as long as I own the car,
which will be probably another 10 years.

Hi,

There IS a huge difference between treating a clutch properly and not,
isn't there?

I got my Subie used w/ 209k miles. I can't say the prior owner had been
especially good to the car, but the clutch felt "acceptable" so I
figured out of curiosity, I'd just drive it until it gave up. Throwout
bearing was what gave up... frozen. That was at 310k miles. When I
removed the old one and took the parts to the dealer to match and
replace, my parts guy looked at everything and pronounced it "the
original" clutch! So... treat yours right and who knows how far it can
go?

Rick

 

[grape]

Used Subarus are also a bit risky due to the problems they had
with clutches, head gaskets and piston slap. New models are
supposted to be better (I'm counting on it).

err.... so it's risky to own a Sub in general? I've heard a blowing
headgasket is expensive.

 

[grape]

If you're new to manual, I would recommend just a couple of lessons,

at least so you can confidently pull away up a hill without stalling
or rolling back or revving way too loudly or whatever. A lot of people
/think/ they can drive stick-shift but make it pretty obvious that
they can't.

I am driving a Camry right now, and treated it as a manual one. put in
Neutral, then rev in certain RPM, gear in D, you can actually *feel* the
wet-clutch in auto gearbox ingaging and slipping (not good to an
auto,though), and my front tyres smoking a bit,So.... does that count ?

Just can't help myself without shifting anything, hehe, every
auto-trannyI've droven will be shifted hell a lot, despite the fact auto
shifting has a noticeable delay.

 

[grape]

one of my friends got jerk during a jam... or maybe he got wimpy legs?

 

[JaySee]

I am driving a Camry right now, and treated it as a manual one. put in
Neutral, then rev in certain RPM, gear in D, you can actually *feel* the
wet-clutch in auto gearbox ingaging and slipping (not good to an
auto,though), and my front tyres smoking a bit,So.... does that count ?

Just can't help myself without shifting anything, hehe, every
auto-trannyI've droven will be shifted hell a lot, despite the fact auto
shifting has a noticeable delay.

FYI, you're ruining your automatic transmission. That's NOT how you
launch an automatic. The proper way is to left foot brake, gas it up
to you rev launch point, then lift off the brake and punch the gas.

 

[Bruce Hoult]

FYI, you're ruining your automatic transmission. That's NOT how you
launch an automatic. The proper way is to left foot brake, gas it up
to you rev launch point, then lift off the brake and punch the gas.

Yeah, he is. But I can't see any point in your procedure, at least on
my 2.5l Legacy. I've tried it. The torque converter stall speed is
only a tad over 2000 rpm so the engine isn't *really* into the power
yet. Just hit the gas from idle and it's there in an instant -- and I
think with more *punch*.

I can see how it might be useful to do that to spool up a turbo though,
if anyone buys turbo automatics.

 

[Guest]

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to
buy a manual car, is that true???

I drove a manual for many years, but an auto for the last 18 yrs.
An auto well maintained, which is only a proper oil change for modern
autos which auto adjust, will last for many miles. I assume Subrau has
a modern auto.
With a manual the clutch and sync rings will wear. In city driving this
wear is very significant.

My oldie '95 Chrysler has 7 shift points. It has 4 gears with lockup on
the top 3 gears. I downshift on hills. In cruise control it downshifts
itself.
I'm sure I couldn't get more mileage with a manual although I could
probably get a few split seconds more acceleration, which isn't required.
As for driving in snow I prefer the auto on startup, as I can control
wheel spin better. In snow I downshift at times to avoid it running
away at too high a speed on down slopes.

So my suggestion is an auto unless you drive only on the highway.

 

[David Betts]

plan to own a impreza 2.5rs wagon, never drove a manual before, but 'd like
to.

Friends who owned a manual car warned me that in daily commutes, your leg
will be extremely painful if got jammed in traffic... that hesitated me to
buy a manual car, is that true???

No. Anyone who gets leg pain from using a clutch is desperately unfit.
Anybody with normal levels of fitness, ie capable of walking a few
miles, will have no problems.

also, is pre-owned WRX a good option? the price is only around $21,000(CDN)
where new WRX is about 35000.

Yes, as long as it has been properly looked after a used car is always
a better option than a new car. Any delivery/initial manufacture
faults have been dealt with under warranty and the initial
depreciation has taken place.

David Betts
(e-mail address removed)

 

[David Betts]

There IS a huge difference between treating a clutch properly and not,
isn't there?

I got my Subie used w/ 209k miles. I can't say the prior owner had been
especially good to the car, but the clutch felt "acceptable" so I
figured out of curiosity, I'd just drive it until it gave up. Throwout
bearing was what gave up... frozen. That was at 310k miles. When I
removed the old one and took the parts to the dealer to match and
replace, my parts guy looked at everything and pronounced it "the
original" clutch! So... treat yours right and who knows how far it can
go?

The difference on a Rex is between 25.000 and 65,000 miles. Don't know
anybody who has got much more than 65 out of a clutch. The point is -
and I've made this before - that a powerful awd car can't dissipate
excess power at launch as wheelspin, therefore it has to slip the
clutch. Also, powerful awd drive cars put a trememdous load on their
transmission and there has to be a weak link somewhere. Much cheaper
and simpler to change a clutch than to change a gearbox <g>. Simply
regard it as a consumable - like tyres and brakes.

David Betts
(e-mail address removed)

 

[David Betts]

err.... so it's risky to own a Sub in general? I've heard a blowing
headgasket is expensive.

Ignore the trolls. Subarus are amongst the best built, best engineered
most reliable cars in the world. Plenty of evidence in the customer
satisfaction surveys.

David Betts
(e-mail address removed)

 

[cobs]

Yeah, he is. But I can't see any point in your procedure, at least on
my 2.5l Legacy. I've tried it. The torque converter stall speed is
only a tad over 2000 rpm so the engine isn't *really* into the power
yet. Just hit the gas from idle and it's there in an instant -- and I
think with more *punch*.

I can see how it might be useful to do that to spool up a turbo though,
if anyone buys turbo automatics.

I've never bothered. With a tiptronic auto b4, the first turbo seems to
cut in about 2300/2500 rpm, though I don't tend to launch from a set of
lights. I'm not in that much of a hurry around town
It's the 80 to something over 100km that's more useful, especially
around articulated stock trucks.

 

[grape]

manual tranny durability can't outrun auto?! your the first who tells the
contrary of most people do.....

 

[iksalama]

Yeah, he is. But I can't see any point in your procedure, at least on
my 2.5l Legacy. I've tried it. The torque converter stall speed is
only a tad over 2000 rpm so the engine isn't *really* into the power
yet. Just hit the gas from idle and it's there in an instant -- and I
think with more *punch*.

I can see how it might be useful to do that to spool up a turbo though,
if anyone buys turbo automatics.

Proper way to launch an automatic WRX.....shift car to neutral and press
brake pedal hard, rev motor to about 4,500 RPM (you'll feel the brake pedal
go down another 1/2 inch or so) return gas pedal to idle position but do not
let off brake, shift car into "3", press gas pedal to floor, leave on last
yellow light (when racing at track), cut .500 light...be happy.

At least this is the method I use...oh and for those that have an auto wrx,
a highstall Torque Converter from protorque is bar none the best investment
you can make if you want to be fast in the 1/4 mile.

 

[iksalama]

manual tranny durability can't outrun auto?! your the first who tells the
contrary of most people do.....

In a WRX, yes. The stock 5 speed is shitty, the auto is much more rugged
and handles WAY more power.