Fumotovalve & high mileage oil

J

Jim

OK. I have a 2000 OBW with 167K kms on it. I've just got a Fumotovalve
which I'm hoping will be ok. Just wondering how many miles/changes do
people have on their fumotovalves??

I also just saw at Canadian Tire the Fram SureDrain oil drain valve.
Anyone have experience with this one?? it actually looks like a good
design and come with a hose and also a dust cover which I like.
It's highlighted on the Fram website: http://www.fram.com

Also at 167 kms, I'm considering changing to a high mileage oil like
Valvoline Max Life. I actually started using synthetic oil just to try
it out and haven't noticed any problems but I'm wondering if at this
point would going to a somethign liek Max Life be bettter??

Thanks,
Jim
 
Jim said:
which I'm hoping will be ok. Just wondering how many miles/changes do
people have on their fumotovalves??

Hi,

I've no experience with the Fumoto valve--like Jim Stewart, I believe
trial by hot oil strengthens the character! :D

On high mileage oil... mixed emotions prevail. I understand the main
claim to fame with such products is the addition of a "seal conditioner"
that helps reduce leaks. Some say it helps reduce oil consumption--one
of my clients runs a quickie lube place, and says he's seen
"spectacular" results, in SOME engines! Personal opinion here is if your
engine doesn't leak, and doesn't eat a lot of oil, little will be gained
by its use and you'll probably benefit more from the synthetic than a
change to a hi-mileage product. OTOH, it might be worth a try if either
condition exists in your engine (which at your mileage, probably
doesn't.) Oil leaks are best cured by mechanical means, IMO, and the
areas most likely to leak on Subie engines are the seals that probably
oughta be replaced at each t-belt change, especially if you have a 100k
mile belt change interval on your engine vs the original 60k, where
sometimes you can get away with every second change on seals. (And
sometimes not!)

Good luck,

Rick
 
Couple questions here...
If my seals were leaking or my engine was consumming oil...would it be
painfully obvious to me? Or might it be something I need to look for??

Also, I wasn't aware that they changed seals with the timing belt. Is
that part of the normal service? What seals are those?

I've noticed lately my engine is starting to show some of it's age.
It's a bit pickier about my clutch work when it's cold and when I
change the oil I can really feel the difference afterwards. These are
things I didn't really notice when the engine was younger. I'm
assuming this is all normal?

Thanks,
Jim
 
Jim said:
If my seals were leaking or my engine was consumming oil...would it be
painfully obvious to me? Or might it be something I need to look for??

Any drips of oil on the floor underneath the engine? If so, yes, you
have a leaky seal. If not, you could still have a tiny leak, but nothing
to fret over--it will just make the engine grimy. Engine oil
consumption's a "risk tolerance" thing. Most mfrs won't talk to you
about oil consumption being a problem unless you're going thru more than
a quart in 1000 miles. My experience with a variety of engines is that a
quart in 2000 to 3000 miles is about right for my driving style once the
engine's got some miles, though as long as it's less than 1 qt/k mi I
don't worry. A few of newer engines may show minimal oil usage in as
much as 5000 miles. I check my oil at least once a week (depends on time
of year as my mileage varies tremendously by "season") and keep it
topped up, adding 1/4 to 1/2 qt or so as needed. Friends think I'm nuts.
I'm the only one of them with over 350k miles on an original engine. You
pays your money and you takes your choices.
Also, I wasn't aware that they changed seals with the timing belt. Is
that part of the normal service? What seals are those?

Probably not a part of normal service unless you do it yourself or ask
your mechanic/dealer to do it. Seals you want to pay attention to are
the camshaft seals (one on each side of the engine), the front main
crank seal, and the O-rings on the back and regular seal on the front of
the oil pump. All these are quite easy to service during a timing belt
change cuz the engine's already stripped down for easy access. Some
people add a water pump to the list of "just do its" cuz it, too,
requires the same disassembly as t-belt service. BTW, if you do the
t-belt yourself, or have in independent mechanic doing it, Subaru OEM
belts are the only way to go. Life expectancy of aftermarket belts, even
top name brands, CAN be lower than should be expected.
I've noticed lately my engine is starting to show some of it's age.
It's a bit pickier about my clutch work when it's cold and when I
change the oil I can really feel the difference afterwards. These are

We all get older, find it harder to get out of bed in the morning, and
hear stranger noises each year while doing so... :) The clutch could be
getting worn, there could also be a bit of oil leakage from the rear
main seal onto it. The added perkiness after an oil change is something
many of us "perceive" even in newer engines, though it could also be a
signal an engine flush is in order. You can use Rislone to help clean
things out while you drive, Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase does the
same, or you can go to more aggressive cleaners at an oil change. I'd
start w/ Rislone or MMO--they're far less likely to bust loose a big
deposit of "stuff" and clog something.

HTH,

Rick
 
Rick Courtright said:
Any drips of oil on the floor underneath the engine? If so, yes, you
have a leaky seal. If not, you could still have a tiny leak, but nothing
to fret over--it will just make the engine grimy. Engine oil
consumption's a "risk tolerance" thing. Most mfrs won't talk to you
about oil consumption being a problem unless you're going thru more than
a quart in 1000 miles. My experience with a variety of engines is that a
quart in 2000 to 3000 miles is about right for my driving style once the
engine's got some miles, though as long as it's less than 1 qt/k mi I
don't worry. A few of newer engines may show minimal oil usage in as
much as 5000 miles. I check my oil at least once a week (depends on time
of year as my mileage varies tremendously by "season") and keep it
topped up, adding 1/4 to 1/2 qt or so as needed. Friends think I'm nuts.
I'm the only one of them with over 350k miles on an original engine. You
pays your money and you takes your choices.
I used to lose a quart every 3000 or so, but with the recent worsening of my
oil seals, I'm feeling like it's more like every 1500. Then again I've got
170k on an engine that, as far as I can tell from Subaru service records,
has never been opened, replaced, or otherwise modified from factory
condition save for filters and external devices. I might even be on the
original timing belt. (EJ22 non-interference.) Since I lack the funds to
really care for my vehicle at this point, only the Subaru resistance to
neglect is holding it together.

-Matt
 
i have about 10 oil changes on my fumotovalve. Probably about 45k miles.
About same with my car (96 Brighton wagon). Considering the way the
Fumoto valve is built, I would bet it will last the life of the car.
I have the standard model but you can get one with a spigot you can fit
a tube on when you drain the oil.
 
Subaru's are notorious for the two cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump
leaking. These are almost always changed (along with the water pump and
drive belts) when the timing belt is replaced. All of these reside behind
the timing cover and it's cheaper to do it while it's apart.
A leak at these seals flows to the drain hole in the timing cover and when
you drive it drips out and blows back to the converter where it burns up
without a trace. Ever notice a smell or a little smoke from under the hood
after a long trip? TG
 
The Application Guide from Fram lists all 1972 and 1973 Subaru 4
cylinder engines and nothing else!

-R.
 
Thanks for the info. I've never noticed any buring smells or smoke
from under the hood and about every other week I make a 800 km round
trip weekend. So 3-4 hours on the road, sometimes non stop and I've
never noticed anything like that...I'm assuming I should be ok then?

Thanks.
 
I checked with Fram a year or so ago and they said that they did not
carry a SureDrain for the current Subaru engine. So I went with Fumoto.
It works fine, but I have to re-remember which way to push every time
I use it.

I've got SureDrain on my Geo and it works great.
 
It's a good thing that the Fram drain valve doesn't fit Subarus. I
have a Fumoto valve on my Outback which works great and I have about
50K miles on it ( change every 5K). I have Fram valves on a Honda and
a Chevy truck. I hate them. The little tube has to be twisted with the
fitting in order to open the valve because the tube is permanently
curved due to the packaging.. The hot oil usually causes the tube to
slip off making a big mess. Fumoto valve is a dream and I'm sure it
will last the lifetime of any Subaru.

On synthetic oil I used it since my Outback was new. I developed an
oil leak under the cam cover at 85K miles. Now this is common for
Subaru but I think it came a little early and I wonder if the
synthetic oil causes the seals to harden up. So I've gotten everything
changed under the timing cover and I'm going back to dino oil. Don't
notice any gas mileage difference or noises except the oil a lot
cheaper.
 

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