Clacking from head/block

[AS]

Forgot to mention, that the 2.2 has an o-ring between the engine block,
and the oil pickup tube. That oring gets flat and then the oil pump
sucks air causing all the lifter noise. I now remember that after I
replaced that o-ring, not a fun job to do because of the removal of the
oil pan, all the lifters quieted down, probably an indication that they
self bleed.

Good luck,

AS

 

[AS]

Camshaft damage is very unlikely, the fact that the noise almost
disappears with higher revs, indicates that the adjuster is not
collapsed to the point of being a risk to itself or to the valve stem.

 

[hachiroku]

Head gasket is very unlikely to fail with the engine not being used.

This motor has hydraulic lash adjusters. When the engine is stopped for
a long while, the adjusters that where under pressure all the time will
leak oil causing the clacking on starting the engine. The reason why
the noise is more noticeable at idle is because the oil pressure is
lower. If you are lucky, the lash adjusters will evacuate the air
inside with repeated use. If unlucky, as with some Nissan Maxima
engines, the only way to get rid of air inside the lash adjusters is by
bleeding the adjusters inside a container full of clean oil.

Sticky valve would be noticeable as a miss on the pressure coming out
from the exhaust pipe.

Other than the nuisance and the "reduced" engine output (if noticeable
at all) the noise wont be too harmful.

Good luck.

AS

Thanks! I have a 1989 Mazda with HLAs and after I bought a box of 4 I
changed the oil to a different brand and the clacking stopped. Luckily, i
got my $55 back! Hopefully, this is what the issue is, but it sounds like
it's in the block side of the head... But it's not a rapping, it's a
distintive clack, like on the old hyrdaulic lifters on Chevys.

 

[hachiroku]

Forgot to mention, that the 2.2 has an o-ring between the engine block,
and the oil pickup tube. That oring gets flat and then the oil pump
sucks air causing all the lifter noise. I now remember that after I
replaced that o-ring, not a fun job to do because of the removal of the
oil pan, all the lifters quieted down, probably an indication that they
self bleed.

Good luck,

AS

Shoot. On my '89 GL, the oil pump was right up front, and changing the O
ring was a piece of cake! Took me 25 minutes.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Shoot. On my '89 GL, the oil pump was right up front, and changing the O
ring was a piece of cake! Took me 25 minutes.

He did say pump - but I think he means pick-up tube in the pan.

 

[AS]

The o-ring I mentioned is in between the oil pick up tube and engine
block. This is different front he o-ring sealing the oil pump which is
located in the front part of the engine.

When the pick up tube o-ring flattens, the pump sucks air. The 95
legacy L I had, with the 2.2, was noisy till i replaced that o-ring.

The o-ring is # 3 in the illustration found here:
http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_25/lubrication_system/oil_pan/illustration_2/


Regular Buna o-rings will not last here, you need higher temperature
resistance, e.g. Viton.

Good luck,

AS