Auto Transmission fluid change

[John A. Mason]

Hi All,
I have a 2002 Outback H-6 VDC Sedan with 120,000 miles. I have 'changed' the automatic transmission fluid once by letting the fluid drain out of the drain plug then refilling until full. I have never done a complete flush/change-out (torque converter, etc). What are the thoughts about this method? John A. Mason Comer, GA

 

[nobody >]

Hi All,
I have a 2002 Outback H-6 VDC Sedan with 120,000 miles. I have 'changed' the automatic transmission fluid once by letting the fluid drain out of the drain plug then refilling until full. I have never done a complete flush/change-out (torque converter, etc). What are the thoughts about this method? John A. Mason Comer, GA

I had Clary's transmission shop (an independent in Seattle I've done business with for many years, they know Subarus as well) do a flush on my '00 OB at 99K miles as I bought it with 95K and had no service history, just to ease my mind.

About 8K later, it developed the known 4EAT quirk of hesitation doing into a forward gear when first started cold (goes away on warmup).

It's something to do with an aged O-ring that doesn't seal as well when the gunk gets flushed out around it from the power flush. It's not a disabling problem, just an irritation.

Rather than doing a teardown on the tranny, they suggested adding a can of Seafoam transmission additive every 6-8 months.it swells the seals. That works, I just dump in a can when it starts acting up. I can live with this...

There may be other tranny additives that would work, but I'm not going to waste time finding out. Seafoam brand stuff isn't stocked by Shucks or Autozone. I get mine at NAPA, you may have to find a "more professional type" autoparts store if you don't have a NAPA store nearby.

I'd still go with the flush, just be aware that it may cause problems. There have been some instances where a flush uncovers a serious problem that was going to occur anyway, the flush just accelerated it.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m% (B]

Hi All,
I have a 2002 Outback H-6 VDC Sedan with 120,000 miles. I have 'changed' the automatic transmission fluid once by letting the fluid drain out of the drain plug then refilling until full. I have never done a complete flush/change-out (torque converter, etc). What are the thoughts about this method? John A. Mason Comer, GA

Do it again. You're doing just fine.

In my experience, 'flushing' just flushes your wallet of cash. When I was working for a dealer (used cars) we had two trannies flushed. The first one waited until we sold it, and then failed about a week later. The second one had to be flat-bedded about 1 mile from the place that flushed it.

If the fliud is still, um, at least 'reddish', doesn't have black in it, and isn't brown, drain and refill again. If it's brown, drain it, fill it, drive about 3,000 miles and do it again. If it's black, put a Crepe on it, it's dead... (I had a tranny run 12,000 miles like that..DON'T TOUCH IT!!!).

60,000 miles is about right for a drain and fill. You should be in good shape.

If you're particularly anal about it, you could disconnect the high pressure side hose that goes from the tranny to the cooler in the radiator, with the wheels off the ground start the car, let it warm until the idle comes down, put it in drive and put the hose in at least a one gallon container. Five gallons is better. Keep adding tranny fluid to the inlet as fast as it is running out of the hose. When the stuff running out of the hose looks new, stop everything, reattach the hose, check the fluid and add more if necessary. I think you can do this in neutral, too, but we always did it with the drive wheels off the ground and turning.

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m% (B]

Rather than doing a teardown on the tranny, they suggested adding a can of Seafoam transmission additive every 6-8 months.it swells the seals. That works, I just dump in a can when it starts acting up. I can live with this...

This seems to be the recommended 'fix' for anything that goes a little off on a Soob trans..."Get a can of Sea Foam..."

It seems to work. I'm not a big fan of snake oil, although I use Slick 50, but it gets rid of hesitation and judders in Soob trannies...

There may be other tranny additives that would work, but I'm not going to waste time finding out. Seafoam brand stuff isn't stocked by Shucks or Autozone. I get mine at NAPA, you may have to find a "more professional type" autoparts store if you don't have a NAPA store nearby.

Hmmm....I get mine at AutoZone, although every time I get one it has gone up a couple bucks...

 

[John (archive)]

I think you can do this in neutral, too, but we
always did it with the drive wheels off the ground and turning.

On this soob wouldn't that mean all four wheels?
What do you recommend for the filter, leave it if doing the simple drain/refill and only change on the full fluid change? My 00 OBW is due for one or the other. At 135K I'm apprehensive about doing a full flush but a simple drain/refill, even a couple of times might be worth it. But the filter...Hmmmm.....

BTW, AutoZones in MA have Seafoam on the shelf

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m% (B]

On this soob wouldn't that mean all four wheels?
What do you recommend for the filter, leave it if doing the simple drain/refill and only change on the full fluid change? My 00 OBW is due for one or the other. At 135K I'm apprehensive about doing a full flush but a simple drain/refill, even a couple of times might be worth it. But the filter...Hmmmm.....

BTW, AutoZones in MA have Seafoam on the shelf

That's where I am. That's where I get it.
Are you in Eastern or Lefter...I mean, Western MA?

If you look through posts over the weekend, you'll see I wasn't able to get my filter out. On my '89 it is a screen, like most of the Jap cars I have owned. I always buy one just in case it's really dirty or decrepit, but usually put the new one in regardless. They run $8-15, and it's cheap insurance.

I cleaned the one I couldn't get out with AZ Brakleen, the non-chlorinated version. It doesn't leave a residue and dries quickly.

The manual (Chilton's) said to clean it with gasoline. Since I couldn't get it off the car, I decided this probably wasn't a real good idea...

 

[John (archive)]

That's where I am. That's where I get it.
Are you in Eastern or Lefter...I mean, Western MA?

Eastern
North Shore
Begins with an "I"
Has a beach and really good clams

 

[Hachiroku $B%O%A%m% (B]

Eastern
North Shore
Begins with an "I"
Has a beach and really good clams

Western.

Northern Western. Throw rocks into VT.

Let me ask you this: do you like Tar-Tar sauce?

I used to live in Andover, and then (UGH!) Lawrence, and hung around a lot in Newburyport.

 

[Guest]

I had Clary's transmission shop (an independent in Seattle I've done business with for many years, they know Subarus as well) do a flush on my '00 OB at 99K miles as I bought it with 95K and had no service history, just to ease my mind.

About 8K later, it developed the known 4EAT quirk of hesitation doing into a forward gear when first started cold (goes away on warmup).

It's something to do with an aged O-ring that doesn't seal as well when the gunk gets flushed out around it from the power flush. It's not a disabling problem, just an irritation.

Rather than doing a teardown on the tranny, they suggested adding a can of Seafoam transmission additive every 6-8 months.it swells the seals. That works, I just dump in a can when it starts acting up. I can live with this...

There may be other tranny additives that would work, but I'm not going to waste time finding out. Seafoam brand stuff isn't stocked by Shucks or Autozone. I get mine at NAPA, you may have to find a "more professional type" autoparts store if you don't have a NAPA store nearby.

I'd still go with the flush, just be aware that it may cause problems. There have been some instances where a flush uncovers a serious problem that was going to occur anyway, the flush just accelerated it.

Trans-X is the other goop that seems to work for the Delayed Forward Engagement syndrome.

Dave