'94 Legacy Turbo

V

Vern

I have an "interesting" (read disturbing) problem with my '94 Legacy
Turbo. First, some info.

1994 Legacy Turbo - 4 speed EAT all wheel drive
160,000 km (100,000 miles)
New tires

About a year ago I took it to the dealer because there was a definite
hesitation before it would go into drive. I'd move the gear selector to
D, and it might take 10 seconds before it actually kicked into gear.
Wanted the dealer to replace the transmission fluid, they basically told
me the trans was on it's way out. I took it to a local transmission
shop, they changed the fluid and told me it looked very good, no bits of
metal or anything and the fluid was very clean.

Recently (I don't know when it started, I don't drive the car much and
my wife never noticed the problem ???) the problem started. If I'm
backing up or moving forward, if I turn the wheel to lock left or right,
the car acts like the brakes are applied. I asked the dealer for free
advice about it, and based on my description they said it sounds like
the transmission is going, or the rear differential. I have removed the
ABS module (plug in dooby under the hood) and the FWD fuse, and get the
same result. If I turn the steering wheel to full lock it acts like I'm
applying the brakes. When I straighten the wheels it's ok. Oh yeah,
there was a definite whine coming from somewhere on the highway last
night. Couldn't tell if it was from the front or back. Took the back
roads home as it went away if the engine wasn't pulling too hard.

So, has anyone encountered this? What's a rear differential going to
cost me? There's an '05 Legacy GT for sale locally, should I try to dump
the '94 on them and have the car I'd really like to have? :) I'll tell
my wife you guys said it was the way to go. Sorry for the long winded note.
 
I have an "interesting" (read disturbing) problem with my '94 Legacy
Turbo. First, some info. I have removed the
ABS module (plug in dooby under the hood) and the FWD fuse, and get the
same result.

AIUI, the FWD fuse should NOT be fitted for normal, i.e., all wheel
drive. The fuse is
fitted only when it is neccesary to disconnect the rear axle for e.g.
brake testing on a
brake testing roller. Running the car with the fuse fitted gives you
front-wheel drive
all the time, and can, according to the Suberu owner's handbook, do
massive damage
to the CENTRE differential.



If I turn the steering wheel to full lock it acts like I'm
applying the brakes.

This is because the power steering pump is absorbing a lot of engine
power
when the steering is on the stops.



When I straighten the wheels it's ok. Oh yeah,
 
Thanks for the reply Steve

The problem is not one of lack of power because of the power steering.
It is a definite feeling like the brakes are applied when the wheels are
turned, and I think (I haven't had someone outside to check though) that
the back wheels actually lock up. Also, it's a relatively new problem.
The noise on the highway is a symptom too.

Thought I had all questions answered correctly, but it's the old story
of RTFM. Now, I've Read the F%^$%g Manual :) . I plugged a fuse into
the slot so it was only in FWD mode, and the problem goes away. So, I'm
assuming that it is the rear differential. So, has anyone had this
problem, and what $$$ am I looking at to have someone (besides me in my
driveway) fix the problem.

Thanks again!
vern....


After
 
This would indicate a problem with the "duty C solenoid" that controls power
between the front and rear differentials. Search on "duty C solenoid" in
Google groups to find lots of information.

The "duty C solenoid" is in the transmission, it is a clutch pack.

If the rear differential was locked, you would still be scrubbing a rear
tire with the fuse in.

Blair
 
"The "duty C solenoid" is in the transmission, it is a clutch pack."

Should have read, "The "duty C solenoid" is in the transmission and controls
the clutch pack."

Blair
 
Blair said:
"The "duty C solenoid" is in the transmission, it is a clutch pack."

Should have read, "The "duty C solenoid" is in the transmission and controls
the clutch pack."

Blair

I partly agree, but feel the probelm IS the tranny/clutchpack or
possibly a gummed up/bad solenoid seat.

Also, IIRC ,there's a year or 2 in the 90s that has a tranny that had an
aluminum wear part and the 'fix' was a steel sleeve.

search this group and at www.ultimatesubaru.org for 'torque bind' and
clutch pack and duty C solenoid etc.

Carl
 
Thanks to all for your feedback. I talked to my local mechanic, who
referred me to his favourite auto trans repair shop, who referred me to
the dealer. So, off to the dealer tomorrow. I'll let ya'll know what the
final result is. I fear the worst, that is, I figure I won't get out of
there for less than $1000. Oh well, it's only money, right?

And none of you told me to buy the '05 Legacy GT. I'm very disappointed
in everybody :)

vern...
 
So, I took it to the dealer and they poured"conditioner" into the
transmission. Problem has disappeared 95%, maybe more as my wife drives
the car and she can't tell me. So. . .
1) Seems like this magic conditioner is the first step to solving the
binding problem, at my local dealer. Only cost me $45 to diagnose the
problem and do this anyway.
2) Have any of you had this conditioner added to solve a binding issue
with your Subie? Mine has the 4EAT transmission.
3) How long can I expect this to last? Should I be looking at a new car
while mine is working well? Well, new to me at least with low kms.
4) Kind of frustrating, this was a real issue, and of course the
mechanic couldn't replicate it. I assume he read my note about turning
the wheel left and right to lock and you'd feel the binding. Damn car,
probably fixed itself after I parked it there.

For what it's worth, the dealer has a very good reputation but I sure
got a lot more answers here that I did from them! On the other hand,
none of you are responsible for what you tell me :) . Thanks for the
responses to my first question anyway.

vern....
 

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