Valve lifter rattle - oil filter?

[fopetesl]

My 93 Legacy Turbo has had the same valve lifter rattle for the last
10 years, (& +130K miles).
I've tried just about everything I can find on the net over the years
including removing the valve cover and an oil galley plug to clean.
I've read recently that the problem is down to the oil filter which
seems to be corroborated by the noise being much less or absent just
after an oil change.

What's the advice on a high flow/efficiency oil filter?

 

[Rick Courtright]

What's the advice on a high flow/efficiency oil filter?

Hi,

I haven't a clue why some Subies, 'specially many late-'80s/early '90s
models, are so grumpy about oil filters, but many have reported their
lifter noises disappeared when using OEM filters.

On my '90 Loyale, I'd get zero lifter noise (past just a couple of
seconds on a cold start) w/ OEM. Also had good luck w/ Bosch and Wix
(NAPA Gold is the same filter in a different box.) Although I've used
plain ol' orange Frams (don't start, guys!) for years w/ NO problems in
other makes, my Subie would pitch a ring-tailed fit w/ anything from
Fram (including the "better" grades.) Lifter noise would go as long as
10 minutes before settling down.

Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil have also produced positive results in
these engines for many users. I've used Rislone personally, about every
3rd oil change (near the end of the change cycle, maybe 500 miles to go)
and it appeared to get a fair amount of crud out of the engine when I
first got the car (209k miles of "less than perfect" maintenance by the
original owner) but after two or three treatments, I didn't notice much
difference.

Hope something here helps your car...

Rick

 

[AS]

I got rid of the noise in my 95 after replacing the o-ring that is
located between the oil suction strainer pipe and the engine block.

This required removing the oil pan.

 

[jimmy]

I got rid of the noise in my 95 after replacing the o-ring that is
located between the oil suction strainer pipe and the engine block.

This required removing the oil pan.





- Show quoted text -

I will try an OEM filter on my 96 Outback and see if it helps. My
lifters make such a racket
that it is causing the Anti-knock Sensor to freak out, causing the car
to chug and hesitate.Runs
like crap ;-( So far, every mechanic I take it to says the only fix
is to replace the lifters and
overhaul the engine...I definitely don't have the money for that!
Good luck to you.
jimmy

 

[fopetesl]

Hi,

I haven't a clue why some Subies, 'specially many late-'80s/early '90s
models, are so grumpy about oil filters, but many have reported their
lifter noises disappeared when using OEM filters.

On my '90 Loyale, I'd get zero lifter noise (past just a couple of
seconds on a cold start) w/ OEM. Also had good luck w/ Bosch and Wix
(NAPA Gold is the same filter in a different box.) Although I've used
plain ol' orange Frams (don't start, guys!) for years w/ NO problems in
other makes, my Subie would pitch a ring-tailed fit w/ anything from
Fram (including the "better" grades.) Lifter noise would go as long as
10 minutes before settling down.

Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil have also produced positive results in
these engines for many users. I've used Rislone personally, about every
3rd oil change (near the end of the change cycle, maybe 500 miles to go)
and it appeared to get a fair amount of crud out of the engine when I
first got the car (209k miles of "less than perfect" maintenance by the
original owner) but after two or three treatments, I didn't notice much
difference.

Hope something here helps your car...

Rick

Hi, Rick. When you say "OEM" filter - is this a brand name? In my
business, (electronics), it means Original Equipment Manufacturer. So
maybe, you're talking a Subie Filter?

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

I will try an OEM filter on my 96 Outback and see if it helps. My
lifters make such a racket
that it is causing the Anti-knock Sensor to freak out, causing the car
to chug and hesitate.Runs
like crap ;-( So far, every mechanic I take it to says the only fix
is to replace the lifters and
overhaul the engine...I definitely don't have the money for that!
Good luck to you.
jimmy

I think it's for older soobs than yours - don't remember - BUT there may
be a TSB for bad (overly sensitive) knock sensors.


just a vague memory - maybe someone else knows?

Carl

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi, Rick. When you say "OEM" filter - is this a brand name? In my
business, (electronics), it means Original Equipment Manufacturer. So
maybe, you're talking a Subie Filter?

Hi,

Yes, "OEM" means the same in the automotive world as the electronics
world, so we'd be talking a Subie "branded" filter. In the US, these
have generally been made by Purolator--from visual inspection (and
experimenting on my own) I think they're somewhere between the regular
"white" Purolator models and the top of line "Pure One" models. I don't
know who makes the OEM filters in the rest of the world markets. I
believe most mfrs use several vendors to ensure a steady supply
stream...

Rick

 

[fopetesl]

Hi,

Yes, "OEM" means the same in the automotive world as the electronics
world, so we'd be talking a Subie "branded" filter. In the US, these
have generally been made by Purolator--from visual inspection (and
experimenting on my own) I think they're somewhere between the regular
"white" Purolator models and the top of line "Pure One" models. I don't
know who makes the OEM filters in the rest of the world markets. I
believe most mfrs use several vendors to ensure a steady supply
stream...

Rick

Thanks, Rick. I'll do some digging and experimentation and let you
know what happens.