Valve lifter noise (I think)

[Phil Andrus]

The engine on our '94 Legacy has begun to click when first started in
the morning, which I take to be one or more valve lifters sticking.
After a few minutes, the clicking ceases.

I recall that one means of addressing this problem, minor though it is,
is to add something either to the fuel or to the oil.

Recommendations?


Phil

 

[Rick Courtright]

I recall that one means of addressing this problem, minor though it is,
is to add something either to the fuel or to the oil.

Hi,

For "mechanic in a can" fixes, I've used Rislone w/ some success in
cases like this. Others have recommended Marvel Mystery Oil, also w/
some success. Both go in the oil. There are a variety of "top cylinder"
oils that go in the gas that may help sticky valves, but I doubt they'll
do much for a sticky lifter.

For actual mechanical fixes, a variety of things have helped different
folks, in generally ascending order of complexity: use of an OEM oil
filter (some aftermarket brands have been implicated), installing new
O-rings and seals on the oil pump (major chore, might as well reseal the
whole front of the engine, and do timing belt and water pump at the same
time to save much labor!), or actually removing the lifters and cleaning
or replacing them. As long as the noise goes away quickly, I'd do as
little mechanical fixing as I could get away with! Subie hydraulic
lifters are notorious for noise, but the same happens on some other
boxer engines, so I think some of it just comes w/ the territory!

Good luck!

Rick

 

[pheasant]

The engine on our '94 Legacy has begun to click when first started in
the morning, which I take to be one or more valve lifters sticking.
After a few minutes, the clicking ceases.

I recall that one means of addressing this problem, minor though it is,
is to add something either to the fuel or to the oil.

Recommendations?

I just redid the seals on my 86 GL's oil pump, and the noise stopped dead.
4 bucks worth of parts, plus redid cam and crank seals and timing belts so
for about 75 bucks or so, you'll be good to go. If you don't want to take
the time yourself...... mabye 300-400 bucks labor, but still a cheap fix
when you look at a car payment every month.

If you want to just stop the noise temporarily, Lucas Oil works great, but
by no means meant to solve the problem if it is air leaking past the pump's
o rings.

Thanks again Joe K.

Mine would have hit the junk yard if it hadn't been for the o ring tip.
Thought mine was lifters too. Joe said about 90% of the time it's the oil
pump. Don't need a new pump, just the seals for it. Glad I took the
gamble.

Mark

 

[Joe Kultgen]

[posted and mailed]

Thanks again Joe K.

Mine would have hit the junk yard if it hadn't been for the o ring
tip. Thought mine was lifters too. Joe said about 90% of the time
it's the oil pump. Don't need a new pump, just the seals for it.
Glad I took the gamble.

Mark

Thanks for the compliments but this poster has a Legacy. It uses the 2.2
Liter engine and the valve setup is different. Resealing it can't hurt
but I have no idea if it will help enough to be worth the trouble.

BTW, I finished converting my '86 wagon to SPFI and it runs much nicer
now. Unfortunately it spent too many years with a badly adjusted carb
and the rings are gone. (Too rich = Washes oil off the cylinder walls =
Won't pass emission check @ 140K miles)

The engine out of the parts car I used for the conversion has 200K on it
and died by overheating. When I pulled it apart for the post mortem I
was absolutely amazed. The thing got so hot the block expanded until one
of the cylinder sleaves rotated about ten degrees. At that point it blew
both head gaskets and shut itself down.

The amazing part is that so little went wrong. The cylinders aren't
scored or even excessively worn. They still have cross hatch hone marks
from the original build. The main and rod bearings show some wear but
the journals are good and they're still within spec on the clearance. If
the prior owner had replaced the temp sending unit when it went bad and
fixed a minor coolant leak there's no reason this engine wouldn't have
gone 300K.

If I can get the sleave back where it belongs without warping everything
out of alignment I'll throw rings and bearings in it and run it some
more. I could probably reuse the old bearings but a complete set and new
rings is still under $100.

Repairable. I like that in a car.

Later,
Joe

 

[G.J.H. Jørgensen]

Yes, four things:
a. check your oil pump - the valve lifters need some pressure to work
correctly;
b. check your oil seals (front crankshaft!) for oil leakage - this can mean
loss of oil pressure;
b. check your oil level: if it's too low you are at the beginning of costly
repairs...;
c. check your engine oil viscosity: to thick engine oil takes a lot of time
to build up pressure, especially on cold mornings.

Soobie valves are hydraulally driven, they need no adjustment! (See sticker
under the bonnet).

George