Transmission problems

[Dave N]

I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed
troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:

1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on.
2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and
there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas,
take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse.
Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops.

I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are
fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and
had its full service at 90K.

Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of
what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Edward Hayes]

The transmission light is flashing a code. Each flash as in
flash-flash-flash-pause-flash flash will = 32. Get the code to us and
someone here will have the factory manual with the code identifiers.

 

[Dave N]

The AT light flashes 16 times, if that helps. Thanks!

 

[Edward Hayes]

Dave: My factory manual doesn't list a #16 code. Make sure that you
have the correct flash sequence. I will type what is in the manual. "A
LONG SEGMENT (1.2 SECONDS ON) INDICATES A TEN AND A SHORT SEGMENT (.02
SECONDS ON) SIGNIFIES A ONE" So one long and 6 short will be a 16
code. Hope this makes more sense. To clear the TMC code "remove fuse #
4 for longer than one minute"

 

[Dave N]

Dave: My factory manual doesn't list a #16 code. Make sure that you
have the correct flash sequence. I will type what is in the manual. "A
LONG SEGMENT (1.2 SECONDS ON) INDICATES A TEN AND A SHORT SEGMENT (.02
SECONDS ON) SIGNIFIES A ONE" So one long and 6 short will be a 16
code. Hope this makes more sense. To clear the TMC code "remove fuse #
4 for longer than one minute"

The light flashes 16 times. To clarify a bit, when I turn the car on, the
light comes on with all the other instrument panel lights. When all the
lights go off a few seconds later, the AT light also goes off, then it
flashes quickly 16 times (probably "short segments", as your manual
describes), then turns off and stays off. Thanks again for the replies!

 

[Edward Hayes]

Dave: I rechecked my factory manual and there is no #16 transmission
error code. My book is for a 4eat and the manual is for a MY 2000.
Maybe your vehicle being older there was a code change? Hopefully
someone else will chime in here that has a manual for you MY.

 

[Lyons Net]

Hi Dave,

I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting
the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns,
etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and
the code came back with the following quote:

Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and
re-seal transmission oil pan.

Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour

I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the
parts, I need to find the money and the service rep said I could
still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said
the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power
ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but
more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).

If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without
changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Hi Dave,

I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting
the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns,
etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and
the code came back with the following quote:

Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and
re-seal transmission oil pan.

Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour

I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the
parts, I need to find the money and the service rep said I could
still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said
the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power
ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but
more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).

If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without
changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.

Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at www.ultimatesubaru.org (and
elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of xmission
fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in many cases.
Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the labor
yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the clutch
plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.

Carl

 

[burdock]

I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle

 

[Joe Kultgen]

I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.

I just did this on a legacy wagon for my niece. If you can put the 2WD
fuse in and the problem goes away the flush and additive has a good chance
of working for you.

If installing the 2WD fuse has no effect it's either a bad C selenoid, a
stuck valve body, or a bad clutch.

The good news is that all the affected parts are in the last segment at the
rear of the transmission. If you're good with tools you can drop the
driveshaft and crack the case open without removing the transmission from
the car. The job is more difficult than an oil change but much easier than
fixing a blown head gasket. Personally I'd get a used trans from a salvage
yard and then swap the end instead of the whole unit.

Later,
Joe

 

[Lyons Net]

Here's an update on my 96 OBW... I added a bottle of the limited slip
differential and the binding stopped within 10KM, although the AT OIL
TEMP light would still flash during startup. However, after about
500KM, the binding came back, but not as bad as previous. Now I am
hoping that it is a gummyness problem.

I have not gone back to Subaru to do the recommended repairs to the
clutch assembly yet, as the additive did have a temporary affect. So
my next task is to change the transmission fluid and see how that goes.
And I've not ruled out an entire transmission flush, but will see if
just a fluid change does the trick.

Cheers,