The last straw.....

[null]

Had 3 bad experiences from the service dept at the local (30 min drive)
Subaru. Gave a fitting survey, they
called me up a week later apologizing and offered $100.00 gift certificate
for my next service. So, last week
I took my 19,000 mile 2002 H6 Sedan in for the 15,000 mile service (check
brakes, hoses, filters, change oil).
Well, now when I back up with the wheel turned left then pull forward
there's several load clunks/slaps (metal
hitting metal). Needless, to say I'm not taking it back to the same dealer
but another one. I'll then inform
the previous dealer of the problem and the fix. I thought I was fair and
gave them one last chance and they
Fscked it up. So anybody got guesses what might be wrong? I'm still
determing the exact way to reproduce the noise
to see if it's suspension, brakes, etc. It doesn't do it when making normal
left turns.

 

[TW-Ohio]

The last straw.....

From: null (e-mail address removed)
Date: 9/11/2003 8:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: <(e-mail address removed)>

Had 3 bad experiences from the service dept at the local (30 min drive)
Subaru. Gave a fitting survey, they
called me up a week later apologizing and offered $100.00 gift certificate
for my next service. So, last week
I took my 19,000 mile 2002 H6 Sedan in for the 15,000 mile service (check
brakes, hoses, filters, change oil).
Well, now when I back up with the wheel turned left then pull forward
there's several load clunks/slaps (metal
hitting metal). Needless, to say I'm not taking it back to the same dealer
but another one. I'll then inform
the previous dealer of the problem and the fix. I thought I was fair and
gave them one last chance and they
Fscked it up. So anybody got guesses what might be wrong? I'm still
determing the exact way to reproduce the noise
to see if it's suspension, brakes, etc. It doesn't do it when making normal
left turns.

After I back out in the am, after making my usual turning stop (left or
right), the first brake application at the end of the street (180yds) has
always made a bit of a clunk; in this GT and in my previous car (a Mazda). It
was just the pads shifting around slightly. At one point it disappeared, (weak
retainer springs replaced?) but when i replaced the generic pads with the
better of two Mazda pads, it was back... It was not a serious sounding clank,
though. More like when the car sits and cools down after a drive in the rain,
the rotors get slightly rusted and when the car first gets driven the pads
break free of the rotors.
Terry - '03 Silver Legacy SE sedan - 36 miles!
'02 Regatta-Red GT wagon 5spd - 23k miles
Yakima / TandeMover / Rockymount rack
To reply, get rid of the "nonsense"

 

[Alan]

The sound (clunk) is probably the automatic ABS test. All ABS cars do this.

 

[John Varela]

The sound (clunk) is probably the automatic ABS test. All ABS cars do this.

All? My Volvo did it, very audibly, but I've never heard it in the wife's
Forester. Nor have I heard it in the Infiniti that replaced the Volvo.

And with the Volvo it was one clunk at around 15 or 20 mph, not "several load
clunks/slaps (metal hitting metal)".

 

[Alan]

I didn't always hear it in my Camry, but I know it did it. If the radio is
on, noise outside, etc. it would be drowned out. Anyway, it was the second
poster's noise I was referring to, not the OP. If the brakes are down to
metal, the test could make that sound, but you'd probably hear it whenever
you stepped on the brakes.

 

[Dan Duncan]

The sound (clunk) is probably the automatic ABS test. All ABS cars do this.

Wouldn't he have noticed it before? I assume this is a new noise...

-DanD

 

[Mike Anzel]

Too bad about your dealer service expierence. Would like to know what
dealer you used??

 

[null]

You'd be correct if it only did this once, after some testing the sound is
most audible and easily reproduceable
when I do sharper then normal left turns. I.E. turn into parking spaces.
turning into lots at low speed. If you
do a normal gradual left turn it doesn't always make the noise. It's also
quite loud and there are several
snaps when going from reverse to forward. I am aware of the ABS noise on
start-up this isn't the noise.

 

[Ken Gilbert]

You'd be correct if it only did this once, after some testing the sound is
most audible and easily reproduceable
when I do sharper then normal left turns. I.E. turn into parking spaces.
turning into lots at low speed. If you
do a normal gradual left turn it doesn't always make the noise. It's also
quite loud and there are several
snaps when going from reverse to forward. I am aware of the ABS noise on
start-up this isn't the noise.

cv joint.

jm2c
ken

 

[null]

The verdict is in Dealer A fscked it up!

Two weeks ago took it to dealer 'A' for 15k/30k service they were supposed
to:
*Lube, oil & filter
*Lube locks & hinges
*Replace air filter
*4-wheel brake service
*Tire rotation & balance
*Adjust emergency brake
*Inspect coolant & radiator
*Inspect hose & belts
*Check all filters
*Check fluid levels
*General visual inspection
*Check Battery & charging system
*Road Test vehicle

Two days later the symptoms started:
Snapping/Popping noise in right front wheel when turning
1 week later:
Left rear wheel makes a helicopter noise

Took it to dealer 'B'
(from the service report
Checked for clunk noise on turns, found the front pads worn unevenly,
causing pads to cock in holders. Machined front rotor (rust ridge in
center face of both rotors), Replaced front disc pads, cleaned & lubed
caliper sliders


After removing rear wheels for inspection and reinstalling wheels,
roadtest again, noise is gone

So what happened?

Talked to the mechanic he stated that rear wheels was not centered
on the lugs, which is what caused the helicopter noise. Also, at least one
wheel nut was loose (I turned it by hand). As for the caliper
when Dealer 'A' removed it to inspect it, they 1, failed to notice that
the pads were wearing unevenly, 2 failed to acknowledge rust ridge on
rotor, and 3 by removing it they caused it snap and pop as the caliper
pressed the now freed uneven pads. Now the back wheel, the mechanic said
that
the wheel locked 'cocked'. He said this is caused by a few things. Of them
them dealer 'A' failed to torque the nuts in the correct order leaving the
un-centerd
or overtorqued them or undertorqued them. I'm putting my money on the first
and last
scenario here's why. 2 month prior to this the car was taken to dealer 'A'
to have the
wheels replaced due to corrosion. After getting the car home I checked the
torque on the
wheels. Front right wheels-all 5 lug nuts could be taken off with 2
fingers. Left rear
wheel 2 lug nuts could be removed with fingers. So, dealer 'A' has a
history of not
correctly torqueing the wheel nuts.

All that said, at least the wheel didn't fall off as I do 90% highway
driving.
Dealer 'B' is getting an A+ survey for quickly and correctly diagnosing the
problem
As this is Dealer 'A' 5th failed attempt at servicing my vehicle (5
different visits (recalls, various warranty work)
both the owner and Subaru will be getting a complete service history and
the problems encountered.

If you wonder who dealer A is hint: (search google for some of my previous
posts I used to call them the best)




8< snip