Pre--oil system for '04 OBW

[Brian K. M.]

I am looking for a pre-oil system for my '04 2.5L OBW. This system
would prelube the cylindering, bearing, and seals before the engine is
started. Calls to my local auto shops, NAPA, Autozone, and Fisher
resulted in lots of confused service reps. After doing an Internet
search, the only automotive pre-oil system I could find was from AMS
Oil for $300-$400. Has anyone seen another other system. I would be
interested in a kit system, but don't want to design and build from
scratch.

Also, has anyone every seen a battery power block heater?

Thanks,
Brian
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[RWM]

You want an "AccuSump" from Mecca Development/Canton Racing Products.

- RWM

 

[Jim Stewart]

I am looking for a pre-oil system for my '04 2.5L OBW. This system
would prelube the cylindering, bearing, and seals before the engine is
started. Calls to my local auto shops, NAPA, Autozone, and Fisher
resulted in lots of confused service reps. After doing an Internet
search, the only automotive pre-oil system I could find was from AMS
Oil for $300-$400. Has anyone seen another other system. I would be
interested in a kit system, but don't want to design and build from
scratch.

With folks getting 300k miles with dino
oil and no pre-oil, I have to ask, why?

Also, has anyone every seen a battery power block heater?

So you would have a warm engine and a dead
battery? Your car battery would never have
enough amps to do this.

 

[Edward Hayes]

I think either Amsoil or Redline oils market a preoiler. I feel this is a
waste of money with our newer 0w30 and 5w30 oils.

 

[Hallraker]

With folks getting 300k miles with dino
oil and no pre-oil, I have to ask, why?

Peace of mind I guess. I was thinking the same thing myself. Maybe if he's
starting and stopping the car a lot, but I've read that since the engines
are flat, it takes a longer time for the oil to drain down into the pan, so
who knows.

-Matt

 

[Brian K. M.]

I'm mainly interested in getting infor on pre-oilers b/c I used them
in marine applications and thought I'd look into them for cars. I
don't do much driving that requires securing my engine and then
restarting. However, I do east coast ski and thought it would be
better for the engine to get oil to it before starting when cold. This
would be much better if somehow I could heat the block or oil first.
I'm just getting people's opinions, but I'm thinking it doesn't make
much economy since seeing that AMS Oil's system is almost 400USD and
ppl are getting 300K miles just doing minimums for car care.

Thanks for the input on everything.
Brian
P.S. If you want to read about pre-oilers, pros/cons, run a search for
them on alt.autos. You'll also learn about aircraft and startups,
kinda cool.

 

[John Rethorst]

dino oil

Please forgive the newbie question, but what's dino oil?

 

[Henry Paul]

I think it means the regular old fossil dinosaur oil as opposed to synthetic
oil.

 

[Jim Stewart]

Please forgive the newbie question, but what's dino oil?

No problem. Dino for dinosaur. Plain
old petroleum-based oil as opposed to
synthetic.

 

[Ignignokt]

Please forgive the newbie question, but what's dino oil?

LOL. It refers to the dinosaurs who died so that we could pump it up out of
the ground. (Which is a misnomer, because most of our oil and coal actually
comes from long-dead *plants* not dinosaurs.) The term "dino" is used to
distinguish between "natural" oil and synthetic.

- Greg Reed

 

[Rick Courtright]

Peace of mind I guess. I was thinking the same thing myself. Maybe if he's
starting and stopping the car a lot, but I've read that since the engines

Unless the engine's sitting in really cold weather for a relatively long
time (weeks or more?), I'm afraid I miss the point, too! But I live in
SoCal, so I don't even know what cold is.

Ever torn down an engine and felt the pistons, cylinder walls, cams,
rockers, etc.? Notice there's a LOT of residual oil in most parts of the
engine even after it's sat for quite some time? Or lost all your oil at
speed due to a blown cooler line or other catastrophic failure? IF you
can get the engine shut down fast enough, you'll probably be ok. That
one I know from experience--I was surpised there was NO visible or
measurable wear on bearings or other items I checked before buttoning
that particular engine back up and putting another 75k miles on it. I
should probably put on my flame suit before speculating this, but I
think the "wear at engine startup due to lack of lubrication" idea is a
highly overrated problem. Although Castrol's capitalizing on the idea
with their GTX Start-up or whatever they call their new stuff. Wonder if
it still works after the engine's running?

OTOH, difficulty starting and poor running of a really cold engine might
warrant such a system... though a good plug-in block heater oughta take
care of things for most people, IMO. I'll keep an open mind!

Rick

 

[Henry Paul]

I would tend to agree with you. I think we are talking about SEVERE winter
weather here for such a condition. My dad told me stories of winters in
Alaska about using engine block heaters just so the engine would turn over.

 

[Jim Stewart]

Hallraker wrote:




Unless the engine's sitting in really cold weather for a relatively long
time (weeks or more?), I'm afraid I miss the point, too! But I live in
SoCal, so I don't even know what cold is.

Ever torn down an engine and felt the pistons, cylinder walls, cams,
rockers, etc.? Notice there's a LOT of residual oil in most parts of the
engine even after it's sat for quite some time? Or lost all your oil at
speed due to a blown cooler line or other catastrophic failure? IF you
can get the engine shut down fast enough, you'll probably be ok. That
one I know from experience--I was surpised there was NO visible or
measurable wear on bearings or other items I checked before buttoning
that particular engine back up and putting another 75k miles on it. I
should probably put on my flame suit before speculating this, but I
think the "wear at engine startup due to lack of lubrication" idea is a
highly overrated problem. Although Castrol's capitalizing on the idea
with their GTX Start-up or whatever they call their new stuff. Wonder if
it still works after the engine's running?

Castrol kinda lost all credibility with me
when they suggested I needed a "High Mileage"
motor oil at 75k miles. I'm still running
Mobil 1 at 100k and I never have to top-up
between oil changes.