I have a 2006 Legacy Outback, 2.5 non turbo, 5sp M/T, purchased 2yrs ago with newer motor (79k) and an even newer timing belt (roughly 30k ago)
I was driving in single digit cold and the car cut out at speed briefly a couple times over an hour. Being snow and ice I was in a shorter gear than normal but nowhere near even 3k rpm’s. When this happened I noticed if i upshifted It it would be asymptomatic. I remember thinking “maybe I should tune it up when it’s warmer”. The car has been bulletproof besides this:
Next day car was in 6-8 “ of snow (not near pushing height) and getting out of my driveway it died. I hooked up a code reader… and nothing. I mean it turns over does nothing else.
Fuses/relays are good.
My 2 month old battery tested at 12.4, not the very best? I tested it in 3 degree weather after trying to start 10-12 times, so probably closer to 13 under normal circ.
Fuel system- I can hear the pump engage, but still sprayed starter fluid in air-box to try n rule out pump, and filter. She still didn’t start, so fuel system shouldn’t be the problem.
Is the absence of a code in theory a code in and of itself, or at least steering my in a certain direction?
Next i should be checking the plugs for spark and from here I’m unsure what do.
if there’s no spark in plug(s), how do I differentiate between a bad coil pack that controls the same cylinder(s), bad plugs, wires, etc?
Also where does the crankshaft sensor fit into equation of part cost/probability/ease of changing? And wouldn’t the code reader have caught something like a cylinder not firing? I’m starting to be unclear of what these things actually do?
That being said, regarding the spark issue, unless there’s something visible like an oily plug, cracked wire, etc. do I spend the money to get all the parts in question and take back what I don’t use? Or is there a preferred order? And while it shouldn’t be the timing belt, how do I know when to say when and take start taking things apart to check?
Have I missed anything up till this point?
Ideas, or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for reading!
I was driving in single digit cold and the car cut out at speed briefly a couple times over an hour. Being snow and ice I was in a shorter gear than normal but nowhere near even 3k rpm’s. When this happened I noticed if i upshifted It it would be asymptomatic. I remember thinking “maybe I should tune it up when it’s warmer”. The car has been bulletproof besides this:
Next day car was in 6-8 “ of snow (not near pushing height) and getting out of my driveway it died. I hooked up a code reader… and nothing. I mean it turns over does nothing else.
Fuses/relays are good.
My 2 month old battery tested at 12.4, not the very best? I tested it in 3 degree weather after trying to start 10-12 times, so probably closer to 13 under normal circ.
Fuel system- I can hear the pump engage, but still sprayed starter fluid in air-box to try n rule out pump, and filter. She still didn’t start, so fuel system shouldn’t be the problem.
Is the absence of a code in theory a code in and of itself, or at least steering my in a certain direction?
Next i should be checking the plugs for spark and from here I’m unsure what do.
if there’s no spark in plug(s), how do I differentiate between a bad coil pack that controls the same cylinder(s), bad plugs, wires, etc?
Also where does the crankshaft sensor fit into equation of part cost/probability/ease of changing? And wouldn’t the code reader have caught something like a cylinder not firing? I’m starting to be unclear of what these things actually do?
That being said, regarding the spark issue, unless there’s something visible like an oily plug, cracked wire, etc. do I spend the money to get all the parts in question and take back what I don’t use? Or is there a preferred order? And while it shouldn’t be the timing belt, how do I know when to say when and take start taking things apart to check?
Have I missed anything up till this point?
Ideas, or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for reading!
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