Driveplate bolts -- left or right turn to get off?

[Remco]

Hi all

I have my engine out and would like to replace the drive plate as it is
all bent up.

The bolts that attach this to the crank shaft are these regular (lefty
loosy, righty tighty bolts or what? The tightening torque in the
manual is only 51-55 lbs but these suckers are on there. I don't want
to snap them by doing something stupid.

Thanks!
Remco

 

[johninKY]

They loosen just like all the other fasteners on the car. The only time I
have ever seen "reverse threaded" bolts was on old Chrysler products.
Chrysler used reversed threaded lug nuts on the passenger side of the
vehicle back in the 50s and into the 60s.

 

[Remco]

They loosen just like all the other fasteners on the car. The only time I
have ever seen "reverse threaded" bolts was on old Chrysler products.
Chrysler used reversed threaded lug nuts on the passenger side of the
vehicle back in the 50s and into the 60s.

Thanks, John. Just wanted to make sure before I give it a serious try.
Was I right on the torque? If so, these things must tighten themselves
as the car runs.

 

[Coggo]

Thanks, John. Just wanted to make sure before I give it a serious try.
Was I right on the torque? If so, these things must tighten themselves
as the car runs.

Somebody mentioned in an earlier post that these bolts MUST be Locktited in
place to prevent them coming loose. Maybe that's why they are so hard to get
out???

Dave

 

[Remco]

Somebody mentioned in an earlier post that these bolts MUST be Locktited in
place to prevent them coming loose. Maybe that's why they are so hard to get
out???

Yeah, they are probably locktited in. These things just in there beyond
all belief, though (way beyond the spec, even with the locktite)
Didn't get a chance to do anything today, but I don't think I'll use a
gun (yet) - a 1/2 " breaker bar will probably do it.

 

[Geoff]

If they are in with Loctite, warm them up first. I had that sort of problem
with a different make on the crankshaft pulley bolt, and heating (not
excessively, just until too hot to hold) was the recommended action.

Geoff

 

[Edward Hayes]

Use a quality 6 point socket. ed

 

[S]

Hi Remco!

The bolts that attach this to the crank shaft are these regular (lefty
loosy, righty tighty bolts or what? The tightening torque in the
manual is only 51-55 lbs but these suckers are on there. I don't want
to snap them by doing something stupid.

CCW loosens them. Use an impact to remove, and to re-install. Use the
lowest torque setting. On my IR 1/2in impact, this works out to be
50-60ftlb, but check yours with a torque wrench (a lug nut makes a
good test subject) if you're unsure.
Loctite is recommended, use the "blue" stuff.
Do take the opportunity to replace the rear main seal while you're in
there.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Remco]

Hi Remco!




CCW loosens them. Use an impact to remove, and to re-install. Use the
lowest torque setting. On my IR 1/2in impact, this works out to be
50-60ftlb, but check yours with a torque wrench (a lug nut makes a
good test subject) if you're unsure.
Loctite is recommended, use the "blue" stuff.
Do take the opportunity to replace the rear main seal while you're in
there.

Thanks - we had snow so didn't have an opportunity to do it yet (the
car's outside as the garage is full). I was a little afraid to use the
rattle gun, but that sounds good.

That rear seal idea is a good one. Didn't think of that... Thanks!

Remco
KB1ZB/Pe1DGC (a long time ago, that is