CV joint noise

[dave.mcc]

I have a 1996 Legacy AWD wagon. I hear a CV joint clunking when we're
accelerating and turning towards the right. I'm having trouble
deciding exactly which CV joint is responsible. Given the direction
we're turning when we hear the noise, which side is it likely to be.
I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front and I suppose it an outer
CV joint, but I can't decide on which side it is. Any comments?

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

I have a 1996 Legacy AWD wagon. I hear a CV joint clunking when we're
accelerating and turning towards the right. I'm having trouble
deciding exactly which CV joint is responsible. Given the direction
we're turning when we hear the noise, which side is it likely to be.
I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front and I suppose it an outer
CV joint, but I can't decide on which side it is. Any comments?

Clicking when turning is often the first sign folks notice, but usually
the boot splits - losing the grease and allowing water/grit to enter and
begin destroying the Rzeppa joint. Inspect the boots in the front for
splits and/or obvious signs of splattered grease. In my limited
experience, the right side fails before the left (I'm in the US) so
maybe the curb side gets more dirt exposure and more sharp cornering?

I hope you do not FEEL or sense jerking in slow speed maneuvering - that
might point to center differential problems.

Carl

 

[Bob Noble]

Most cv boots fail on the right because most are over the cat convertor and
a lot of heat rises and therefore the inside one near the engine goes first,
usually. I put a piece of aluminum metal under that boot to protect it from
this. There isn't much room to do that, but can be done. These boots had
failed when I bought my last two subs.

Clunking can also be caused if the large nut on the axle is not tight.
Personally, I don't consider the clunks for a cv joint to be too critical as
long as there isn't a split boot.
The balls are about three quarter inches in diameter and these joints are
way tougher than our U joints. They are very strong and would make a lot of
noise and last a long time before total failure. To me, some clunks are part
of owning a Subaru with this kind of joint. I admit that all my Subaru's
have been used before I got them, so I've learned to deal with some clunks.
I'm perfectly capable of replacing the cvjoint axles, but I'm also perfectly
capable of keeping an ear on the noises while I'm driving and detecting
anything that changes for the worse and dealing with it. I have too many
things to keep them all in perfect shape.
They all are mechanically sound though.

 

[Carl 1 Lucky Texan]

Most cv boots fail on the right because most are over the cat convertor
and a lot of heat rises and therefore the inside one near the engine
goes first, usually. I put a piece of aluminum metal under that boot to
protect it from this. There isn't much room to do that, but can be done.
These boots had failed when I bought my last two subs.

Clunking can also be caused if the large nut on the axle is not tight.
Personally, I don't consider the clunks for a cv joint to be too
critical as long as there isn't a split boot.
The balls are about three quarter inches in diameter and these joints
are way tougher than our U joints. They are very strong and would make a
lot of noise and last a long time before total failure. To me, some
clunks are part of owning a Subaru with this kind of joint. I admit that
all my Subaru's have been used before I got them, so I've learned to
deal with some clunks. I'm perfectly capable of replacing the cvjoint
axles, but I'm also perfectly capable of keeping an ear on the noises
while I'm driving and detecting anything that changes for the worse and
dealing with it. I have too many things to keep them all in perfect shape.
They all are mechanically sound though.

Yep, although I wouldn't recommend anyone do it - as an anecdote, I have
driven for months with clicking CV joints before repairing them. Very tough.

Carl