"at oil temp" (sometimes) flashes 16 times on startup

[smcx1]

I have a '97 Subaru outback with ~70,000 miles on it, automatic
transmission.

A couple of months back I had serious oil leak problems which seem
mainly resolved after the crankshaft seal was replaced. (I also had
the crank pulley replaced and the timing belt was changed)

Now I find that sometimes (but not always) when I start the car the
"AT OIL TEMP" light flashes exactly 16 times and then goes out.

I've not noticed any obvious problems while driving the car.

I suppose I need to take the car to the dealer, but I'd really
appreciate it if anyone out there has any insight into what is causing
this apprarently intermittent problem. In particular, how urgently do
I need to get this looked at, and could it be related to my previous
problems and the fixes done?

Thanks in advance,

Henry

 

[null]

Do a search on this newsgroup or call your dealer, but I believe it's
flashing a code of what's wrong.
Similiar to how GM works. Whatever it is you defintely want to get it
checked out. Autozone, Pepboys
etc. will hook a code reader to the OBDII diagnostic port for free and
tell you if there's any
'codes'.

 

[Mike B.]

Just having my 2001 serviced for the same but my AT HOT light stays blinking
for the entire drive. 50K and this solinoid is under powertrain warranty.

 

[Edward Hayes]

Call dealer service dept and ask what an AT light #16 code is. Did you count
the blinks AND pauses to get the code number correctly? ed

Just having my 2001 serviced for the same but my AT HOT light stays blinking
for the entire drive. 50K and this solinoid is under powertrain warranty.

 

[smcx1]

Call dealer service dept and ask what an AT light #16 code is. Did you count
the blinks AND pauses to get the code number correctly? ed

I believe the 16 flashes at start up is a "generic" warning rather
than the specific error code for a particular problem. I tried the
magic sequence posted once before to this group that is supposed to
make the light flash the problem code but it didn't work.

Time to make that appointment with a mechanic...

Henry

 

[smcx1]

I took my car into the shop.
They said the error message is coming from "duty solenoid C". Since it
would cost about $450 to replace this, if it's the solenoid itself
that's bad, I was wondering if this is really necessary?

Right now the only sign of a problem is the flashing light which I can
easily live with! Will driving with a malfunctioning "duty solenoid C"
cause any real problems?

Henry

 

[Richard Kaszeta]

I took my car into the shop.
They said the error message is coming from "duty solenoid C". Since it
would cost about $450 to replace this, if it's the solenoid itself
that's bad, I was wondering if this is really necessary?

If I'm not mistaken, duty solenoid C is the solenoid that controls the
front/back torque split. If this goes, I'm pretty sure that your AT
will just lock in a 50/50 front/rear split. The two problems I would
see is that sometimes your transmission will start to bind if you are
going around a tight corner (most older AWD vehicles do this anyways),
and I think it increases the wear on the transmission.

 

[smcx1]

If I'm not mistaken, duty solenoid C is the solenoid that controls the
front/back torque split. If this goes, I'm pretty sure that your AT
will just lock in a 50/50 front/rear split. The two problems I would
see is that sometimes your transmission will start to bind if you are
going around a tight corner (most older AWD vehicles do this anyways),
and I think it increases the wear on the transmission.

Turns out that replacement duty solenoids are "on back order
nationally" according to the shop. So, they're going to stick in the
fuse that makes it run as front wheel drive only until the part
arrives!

 

[smcx1]

Turns out that replacement duty solenoids are "on back order
nationally" according to the shop. So, they're going to stick in the
fuse that makes it run as front wheel drive only until the part
arrives!

Picked up the car with the fuse in the "FWD" socket.
Drove it to work, halfway there the "FWD" light on the dash goes out!
Checked that the fuse is still firmly in place.
Looks like it hasn't blown (if I'm checking it correctly).

I don't understand this!
Or could this also be connected to the solenoid failure?
Another solenoid failure?

Henry

 

[Mike B.]

You have a 5yr/60K powertrain... if you are withing that. If not I would go
with the $450. Not bad, you get a trans fluid change.
I would drive the car and see if it goes into overdrive. After 3rd gear you
will see a 250rpm drop as it goes into trans lock. Mine died (just flashed the
AT hot light constantly) after 48K - fixed under warranty.
My son's GMC had a stupid motor that shifts from 2wd-4wd-FT4WS for $925 with
tax. $525 for this stupid part with 49K on it.