94 Legacy, 2,2 Timing Belt Set Up

[Dan]

Hello,
I'm changing the timing belt and need to make sure that the valves and
crank are on the same page. Ihad to rework the crank keyway a bit and
things got moved around some. How do I make sure everything is good to
go with the belt off? Many thanks.

 

[X-Eliminator]

You need to consult the service manual which will show the position of
the keyway for each cam at Top Dead Center. This assumes that you
placed the crank at TDC and lined-up the timing marks before you took
off the belt. It's always a good practice to do this and take pictures
of it before you take it all apart as a sanity check later if you have
a problem

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Hello,
I'm changing the timing belt and need to make sure that the valves and
crank are on the same page. Ihad to rework the crank keyway a bit and
things got moved around some. How do I make sure everything is good to
go with the belt off? Many thanks.

Found a blurb warning to use the 'nothches' BUT not the 'arrows'.

also, there may be some good pics here;
http://www.lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=64

 

[Dan]

Found a blurb warning to use the 'nothches' BUT not the 'arrows'.

also, there may be some good pics here;http://www.lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&vie...

Thanks for the reply info.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks for the reply info.

not sure which engine, but here's another link;

http://www.scoobymods.com/my01-rs-timing-belt-change-t3837.html?t=3837


Also, try to triple check the number for crank pulley torque. Some
older books/gudes have too low torque listed.(sry, I don't recall the
torque required)

Also, some folks insist on changing the front crank seal and
rebuilding the oil pump. Also, be VERY careful compressing the
hydraulic tensioner. You can't go too slowly.

 

[weelliott]

not sure which engine, but here's another link;

http://www.scoobymods.com/my01-rs-timing-belt-change-t3837.html?t=3837

Also, try to triple check the number for crank pulley torque. Some
older books/gudes have too low torque listed.(sry, I don't recall the
torque required)

Also, some folks insist on changing the front crank seal and
rebuilding the oil pump. Also, be VERY careful compressing the
hydraulic tensioner. You can't go too slowly.

There are some helpful youtube videos on subaru timing belt changes. I
used a few when I did my 2.5, and saw that there are some on the 2.2.
On the 2.5 I had been using the wrong marks on the crank pulley and
when I tried to turn it over by hand it didn't work. I was able to
clear it up by looking at the videos and pausing at just the right
moment. The 2.2 is less of a gamble since it is non-interference. The
keyways should only fit into one spot on the pulley, ant the mark is
on the pulley, So I'm not sure what keyway work you would have done
that would mess up the ability of the marks to indicate correct
alignment.

The next paragraph is from fuzzy memory. Don't take it for face value
and assume it is wrong until you find proof otherwise:

I believe that the marks are circles on the outer rim of the pulley
and the arrows that you speak of are on the spokes of the pulley. The
circles are the timing marks for belt alignment, whereas the arrows
are for finding TDC. Check that theory out before you use it.

A thing to note... If you turn it over by hand once you get it all
together, that won't actually tell you if everyting is aligned
properly since it is non-interference. It could still be off, but turn
over fine by hand.But if you turn it, turn it by the crank, not the
cam since turning it by the cam can cause the belt to slip since it
puts tension on the wrong parts of the belt and prevents the tensioner
from working properly, thus allowing the belt to get loose and slip
teeth. This happened on my 2.5 and I thought that the tensioner was
bad, so I put on a a new one. Then it did it again, and I thought the
engine was screwed up. Then I figured it out, spun it with the crank,
and all was good.