2 questions about Subaru 87 gl-10 wagon, carbed

[Bruce Bowler]

I have a '87 gl-10 wagon that has 2 problems that I'd like to fix, one
intermitant, but potentially serious, the other constant, but a mere
annoyance. I'll start with that one. The heater fan only works on "high".
I recall reading somewhere that it's controlled by a series of ballast
resistors, which I presume are buried deep in the dashboard somewhere.
Are they easy to get to (ha!) or a real pain that would require ripping
out the entire dash?

Second, more serious problem. The car occasionally, and without any
discernable pattern, will suddenly lose power and stall. If it is going to
happen, if will be a cold, but not neccessarily bitterly so (this morning
it did it and it was 31-32, yesterday, at ~10 was fine), morning and it
will happen within 2-3 miles of starting up. When it happens, the car will
start up again and run without any further problem, if I let it sit for
about 1 minute before restarting.

146k miles, automatic, carbed (oh how it wish it was FI).

Thanks for any insight on either problem.

Bruce

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Bruce Bowler | Light the lamp, not the rat! - Rizzo the rat
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[odyssey]

The 1st problem I had on the '87 is the resistor it is very easy to get to
in the front or bottom of the heater there is a plug & two screws take out
the plug & the two screws and it is out , very easy,but the problem is to
get it to go in without damaging it. Sometimes the coating gets interupted.

The second problem sounds like the fuel fiter needs a change. With some
deicer put in the tank. When I had mine ( that I loved ) It was always
something simple that I could do. I hope that either one of the things will
work out for you.

Yes, the injected one would be nicer .

Bruce Bowler wrote in message ...

 

[S]

Hi Bruce, All!

I have a '87 gl-10 wagon that has 2 problems that I'd like to fix, one
intermitant, but potentially serious, the other constant, but a mere
annoyance. I'll start with that one. The heater fan only works on "high".
I recall reading somewhere that it's controlled by a series of ballast
resistors, which I presume are buried deep in the dashboard somewhere.
Are they easy to get to (ha!) or a real pain that would require ripping
out the entire dash?

Don't know for sure on the newer GL, but on the older ones the heater
fan resistors are mounted in the heater-core housing right above the
heater control valve, up above the gas pedal. Two screws, and kind of
a contortion to get to it, but do-able. Pulling the drivers seat will
help a little. Look for a rectangular plastic cover about 1 1/2 by 2
inches with a 4 (or 6?) pin plug on it.
If you find a donor car at a scrapyard (least expensive option), ask
them to show you where it is.

Second, more serious problem. The car occasionally, and without any
discernable pattern, will suddenly lose power and stall. If it is going to
happen, if will be a cold, but not neccessarily bitterly so (this morning
it did it and it was 31-32, yesterday, at ~10 was fine), morning and it
will happen within 2-3 miles of starting up. When it happens, the car will
start up again and run without any further problem, if I let it sit for
about 1 minute before restarting.

146k miles, automatic, carbed (oh how it wish it was FI).

I would guess it is the automatic choke's transition from closed to
open. As a starting point, pull the air cleaner and spritz everything
well with carb cleaner. You might also try jury-rigging the choke so
that it is always open. Pump the gas pedal a bit to start the cold
engine, and it'll run kinda rough for the first minute or so, but if
that cures the stall, you'll know what you need to fix anyway. I have
an '83 GL that has given dependable winter service for years w/o the
automatic choke FWIW.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101