1998 Forester Still Overheating!

[jhay77]

Okay, so here's the story.... I am a former Saab Technician who buys
and sells cars on the side to make some extra money. I picked up a 98
Forester for $1000 with a known overheating problem. The car would
overheat and blow coolant into the overflow tank. After some
diagnosis, it was determined that the headgaskets were bad/heads
warped. I picked up a new set of heads and a gasket set, and had my
friend who owns a foreign car repair shop replace them. He ran the
car for 2 days after replacing these items and the temp guage stayed
right in the middle with cooling fans coming on, etc. After I drove
it home, I let it idle in my driveway (which is uphill) and it
started to over heat. The thermostat wasn't opening. I assumed that
there was an air bubble behind the thermostat and took the t-stat out,
refilled the block and tried to bleed the system. It ran fine until I
turned the heat on (I then remembered you are supposed to have the
heat on when you refill and bleed the system) and then it got hot.
Does anyone have a bleeding procedure that works well or any other
ideas to fix this car? I've thought about flushing the block to see
if there is a clogged coolant passage or something. Any help is
appreciated.

 

[S]

Hi Justin!

Any help is
appreciated.

Mmmmm, generic for newer Soobies:

Park with nose higher, or put front up on jack stands/ramps.
Remove "bleeder" plug from R. side of radiator.
Fill cold until coolant overflows from bleeder.
Start engine and allow to warm with heater on max.
Keep adding coolant as necessary until bubbles stop coming and coolant
overflows from bleeder.

Sometimes helps to pour coolant into bleeder hole initially; messy,
but effective.
Always use OEM thermostat.
Run coolant system leak-down test if tools are available; possible
that new head gaskets _still_ bad?
Have radiator checked, or simply replace with unit from salvage yard.
Consider new water pump (and timing belt/idlers/etc. while you're at
it.

Go here:
<http://chester.uccs.edu/WRX_Manual/>
and D/L the SOHC Engine.pdf section. Close enough to the Forry to get
you goin'.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.

ByeBye! S.



Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[jhay77]

Hi Justin!



Mmmmm, generic for newer Soobies:

Park with nose higher, or put front up on jack stands/ramps.
Remove "bleeder" plug from R. side of radiator.
Fill cold until coolant overflows from bleeder.
Start engine and allow to warm with heater on max.
Keep adding coolant as necessary until bubbles stop coming and coolant
overflows from bleeder.

Sometimes helps to pour coolant into bleeder hole initially; messy,
but effective.
Always use OEM thermostat.
Run coolant system leak-down test if tools are available; possible
that new head gaskets _still_ bad?
Have radiator checked, or simply replace with unit from salvage yard.
Consider new water pump (and timing belt/idlers/etc. while you're at
it.

Go here:
<http://chester.uccs.edu/WRX_Manual/>
and D/L the SOHC Engine.pdf section. Close enough to the Forry to get
you goin'.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

Hi Steve,
Thanks for the info, the car is good to go now.... Well, except
for the clutch pedal that just went almost to the floor.... I get one
thing fixed and another pops up. I guess I'll try to bleed the clutch
next!