T-Belt changing

[Edward Hayes]

I getting ready to change the timing belt on my 2.5L SOHC Forester. I
have 95,000 miles on the original belt and wish to drive the car to
~150,000 miles. I plan on changing the water pump (new one from
Advanced Auto OK? Should I also replace the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulleys? Anything else? Thanks so much. Ed Hayes

 

[mulder]

I getting ready to change the timing belt on my 2.5L SOHC Forester. I
have 95,000 miles on the original belt and wish to drive the car to
~150,000 miles. I plan on changing the water pump (new one from
Advanced Auto OK? Should I also replace the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulleys? Anything else? Thanks so much. Ed Hayes

If you're planning to keep the car, you're doing the right thing
changing all those items. In addition you may want to replace the
camshaft and crankshaft seals even if they aren't leaking as they are
known to do so at high mileage.
I would suggest biting the bullet and using all OEM parts, the extra
cost isn't that bad taken over the projected life of the car. You
wouldn't want that pump to fail prematurely and require you to take it
all apart again, an OEM one is far less likely to do so. Same goes for
the belt and the other parts, just take a trip to the dealer with your
list and credit card.

 

[Mickey]

I getting ready to change the timing belt on my 2.5L SOHC Forester. I
have 95,000 miles on the original belt and wish to drive the car to
~150,000 miles. I plan on changing the water pump (new one from
Advanced Auto OK? Should I also replace the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulleys? Anything else? Thanks so much. Ed Hayes

I went through this this past summer. I did not use OEM belt or WP
but did for the thermostat. Belt was HQ U.S. made belt, Kelly
Springfield. WP was Japanese mfg, looked to be of HQ and came with a
lifetime guarantee. Partial reason for using non-OEM parts is there
is no local dealer and these parts were available at local parts
store. When I had the head gaskets replaced earlier this yr I told
the shop about the belt and WP replacement, didn't receive any hard
sell to replace again and this shop is a OEM parts only shop.

As for the thermostat, purchase a Beck Arnley, $20, and then found out
the water passage was only about 50% of that of OEM so took back the
BA part.

As for the other parts you mention. I would give them a close insp
and then decide what to do. If money is no issue than replace to be
on the safe side.

Do pay attention to instructions for the belt tensioner as the piston
has to be compressed VERY SLOW so as not to damage the seal/valve.
The tensioner is heavily dampened.

Mickey

 

[GrumpyOldGeek]

I getting ready to change the timing belt on my 2.5L SOHC Forester. I
have 95,000 miles on the original belt and wish to drive the car to
~150,000 miles. I plan on changing the water pump (new one from
Advanced Auto OK? Should I also replace the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulleys? Anything else? Thanks so much. Ed Hayes

As others have mentioned, seals. They
only take a few minutes apiece and are cheap.

It's also a good time to change fan belts,
plugs and coolant.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Advanced Auto OK? Should I also replace the timing belt tensioner and
idler pulleys? Anything else? Thanks so much. Ed Hayes

Hi, Ed

Others have covered the seals issue: I think it's wise to replace all
the front engine seals at each t-belt change.

On OEM or aftermarket: my experience has been to go OEM only w/ t-belts,
and I used OEM idlers and tensioners cuz my dealer had 'em when I needed
'em and the local parts store had to order them and it would take longer
than I wanted to wait at the time. However, their price was half that of
the dealer, and I seriously doubt there are that many people out their
making those particular parts, so you stand a good chance of getting an
identical part to the OEM unit. That's been the case w/ wheel bearings
and various seals IME. Water pump? New, I've done ok w/ aftermarket for
most apps (used OEM for my Subie for same reason I used OEM idlers,
etc.--a bit of planning would probably save a ton of money next time!)
but I wouldn't go "rebuilt" cuz of the amount of labor involved getting
to the pump if it's not a good one. You might want to add valve covers
and ALL the hoses to the list just cuz of mileage (if they're still
originals.)

Good luck w/ the job!

Rick

 

[lkreh]

My strongest advice is to use OEM parts. Subarus are OEM-parts
sensitive. Second to that, it's a good idea to replace seals, belt
tensioner, and water pump while you're at it. They're likely to go in
the next 20-40,000 miles, which'll require you to remove the t-belt
again. Although I didn't do it myself, it's also a good idea to
replace the oil pump too.

 

[Dean Hoffman]

My strongest advice is to use OEM parts. Subarus are OEM-parts
sensitive. Second to that, it's a good idea to replace seals, belt
tensioner, and water pump while you're at it. They're likely to go in
the next 20-40,000 miles, which'll require you to remove the t-belt
again. Although I didn't do it myself, it's also a good idea to
replace the oil pump too.

Why are Subies more sensitive to after market parts than other breeds?

Dean

 

[Edward Hayes]

I don't think Subaru is overly sensitive to after market parts any
more than Honda or Toyota. The problem is toooo many aftermarket parts
are not quality parts, they just happen to fit the same bolt holes
etc. I am particular about major safety items for my safety and the
vehicles which is why I use OEM timing belts and any internal
engine/transmission parts. JMHO