LJ said:
Is there any pattern of mechnical and electrical failures that I should
pay special attention to when I have the car inspected by a mechanic?
Hi,
Not a complete list, nor does it apply to all years or models, but some
recurring problems to check/be aware of are (a search of the archives
may help you pinpoint the car you decide on):
Mechanical:
--Wheel bearings (inexcusably short life on many models)
--CV joint boots (and the joints if a boot fails and isn't attended to
immediately--a little more prevalent than other makes I'm familiar with)
--Headgaskets (search the archives, some models have problems, some
don't) leak on some, and even a single instance of overheating can blow
'em on many.
--Rust is a problem with the bodies of East Coast cars, though the year
you're looking at should be reasonably rust free if anywhere but the
West, absolutely rust free if from out here.
--OTOH, rust is NOT a problem on any engine components cuz the engines
leak oil! IME, seals have a life expectancy of about 60k miles or so
(same as earlier timing belts, so if seals and belts are replaced at the
same time, leakage is minimized.)
--Radiator life is about 100k miles before the factory units start to
clog. This is ONE place I suggest aftermarket, from
www.radiator.com.
Any car with a single row rad can benefit from one of their dual row
units if one's catalogued for that car.
Electrical/electronic:
--CELs (check engine lights) seem to attract gremlins (again, a little
more prevalent than other makes I'm familiar with)
Are parts readily available and not over-priced, and is repair expertise
not in short supply? I am a bit concerned about the unique H4 engine.
Parts are ~reasonably~ available (not the greatest parts distribution
system in the industry) from the dealers as long as you're patient (if I
have to wait more than 3 days for my Toyota parts, I'm miffed. Subaru
seems to take that long to locate where the parts are before they even
start their journey to the dealer. Patience is a virtue, they tell me. I
allow a week minimum for parts if they must be ordered, but YMMV.)
Aftermarket parts are less available than more popular makes, due to
much lower number of cars on the road. Also, many aftermarket parts are
not particularly satisfactory. It's my experience ALL filters (with a
possible exception of oil filters: there's lots of discussion on them in
the archives!), CV joint boots and axles, timing belts, and clutch parts
should all be purchased from the dealer when possible.
Prices? If you buy parts from the dealer, try to negotiate on big ticket
items (don't make a pest of yourself with filters and such.) Auto parts
are sold with price lists having several columns: the dummy off the
street price, the guy off the street who's not a dummy, the Subaru
specialty mechanic, the other mechanic down the street, you get the
picture. IME Subie parts are NOT cheap no matter what column you can
talk the dealer into.
Expertise? Most of the Subie owners I know are at least moderately
talented wrenches and do much of their own work. On the H-4, you can do
a lot and save money. Don't know about the H-6. You should be able to
find a reasonable supply of Subie knowledgeable mechanics in NorCal if
you don't like to spin wrenches yourself. Some parts of the country are
better than others!
Does the 165-hp engine give enough power?
If it's got a stick and you know how to drive it, yes. Not a race car,
but acceptable. With an auto, you'd best drive the car and see for
yourself (I personally think hooking an auto to a 4 cyl should be a
crime, but lots of people do it.) Easy way to remember how to drive a 4
cyl Subie with a stick: read the redline on the tach, divide that number
by two. Keep the revs above that result. Downshift if you can't.
Spinning that flat four does nothing but make it happier! Driving a car
all day at close to 4 grand scares some people but it's easy to get used
to!
Good luck,
Rick
