These are the brake lines on my 05 Forester as they come out of the body just in front of the right rear tire. The line on the left has a hole in it. I don't know yet which wheel this pipe is going to. There isn't a lot of space here. This line goes up into the body and as far as I can tell it goes straight to the engine bay. The nut at the block is frozen. I am thinking of cutting off the pipe inside the body, under the back seat, and finding clean pipe further back after this block and splicing it back together. Does anyone have a better idea?
Rusted brake line
- Thread starter twj815
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Out of curiosity, where do you live? I assume somewhere that salts the roads in winter.
I live in central Illinois but the car spent its first 10 years in the Chicago area.
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In my mind, it depends on what you have to/want to replace along with the lines. It all has to go back together in the end. If stainless lines are an option for you, I'd go that route. They make a noticeable difference in braking pressure and feel.
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That splans things.
My current concern is about that block. Is it just a connection point or does it have another function? Running new pipe into the body and likely replacing the pipe behind the block seems to me to be the most practical way to get the rear brakes working again unless someone has a better idea.
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it's just a connection point. ive had to replace multiple sections like this in mine lol. i usually keep my splices inside the body wherever possible too
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Chasing a Cat's TAIL !
Usually when there is this much damage, you are looking at End-Of-Life for the Entire System : you will need to do a comllete tear-Out , and put in all-new, possible Re-Routing most Lines for Future Repair Possibilities Consideration : the first work only gets you Started on what is usually a continuing Story .... !
What you are seeing here is a Multi-Cause Failure : Salt Corrosion ; Bi-Metal Corrosion ; and probably Loose/Moving Body Flexing Induced Corrosion : all that combined with the Fact that when Brake Fluid in even a MicroScopic amount weeps from any point , the Brake Fluid than ADDS another Chemical Reaction that slowly progresses down the Length of that Component, which is also happening in these Pictures .
Usually when there is this much damage, you are looking at End-Of-Life for the Entire System : you will need to do a comllete tear-Out , and put in all-new, possible Re-Routing most Lines for Future Repair Possibilities Consideration : the first work only gets you Started on what is usually a continuing Story .... !
What you are seeing here is a Multi-Cause Failure : Salt Corrosion ; Bi-Metal Corrosion ; and probably Loose/Moving Body Flexing Induced Corrosion : all that combined with the Fact that when Brake Fluid in even a MicroScopic amount weeps from any point , the Brake Fluid than ADDS another Chemical Reaction that slowly progresses down the Length of that Component, which is also happening in these Pictures .
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idk about him but i cant afford to redo the whole system because its a bit rusty lol. i live in canada, in rust we trust
and always drive a standard so i dont need brakes anyways 
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Pay Me Now , or Pay a lot more Next week , then Next Month , then the Month after , ..... ; using the Labor-Installlment Plan ! Each time yo touch one of those , you are flexing and stressing Really OLD parts just a foot or so away ; so the problems just keep going ; your damages continue to get worse ...... !
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I had this problem on a '10 Legacy. All the lines inside the body were good, as was the stuff in the engine compartment. I ended up replacing the front hoses, as the lines were ok, and replacing the lines that were outside the body in the rear with stainless. Bought brake tools to make the bends and flares, and new SS hardware for the couplings to the (good) original lines under the rear seat. Also used SS coil wrap for the rear lines. There was a junction block that I saved - it was brass, and unaffected by corrosion. Not too costly, just a lot of work bending tubing. Sold the car not long after- those brakes will last another ten years.
The problem for me was that the lines (behind this failure) run through a narrow area between the frame rail and the gas tank. Not wanting to replace the tank left me with replacing the damaged pipe in that area. The body below the doors is also rusting through so I suspect that the car might only have a couple more good years before it will have to become someone else's refrigerator. The brake line repair will probably outlast the rest of the car.
To redo the entire brake line system in this Forester, the interior would have to be removed as well as the gas tank. It was bought to be used for delivering newspapers. It will continue to do that until it's life is over. It can nickel and dime me until something unexpectedly expensive happens.idk about him but i cant afford to redo the whole system because its a bit rusty lol. i live in canada, in rust we trust
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It is Possible ... IF you get ALL the Causes properly "Covered" by your new work ... which is a challenge for Newbies.
Adding SS to a regular Tube at a Union is by definition , a BiMetal Connection, which can and will start some version of Bi-Metalic Corrosion.
And , anywhere that a Brass connector/Converter is used , that also constitutes a Multi-Body-Metalic assembly , which generates its own Bi-Metalic Chemical EMF's from them just touching each other ; that is why some designers try to "float" brake lines in Rubber Mounts, but this is also self-defeating, especially in an area where any salt is used, as the Salt Brine runs along the Tubes till it reaches any object, where it sits and also begins its Corrosive Process !!! Same thing goes for those Very Pretty "Coils" that some folks Wrap around their Brake Lines , almost as good as a Sponge in Absorbing & Holding Water , Salt , and every manner of other things found along any road environment !
In addition, he may want to Verify (or Re-Do with new-wiring !) the Entire Ground System in that area , as Rear-End Electrical Currents , lights , etc. , passing thru rusted Metal Frame parts, on its way back to the Battery , can accelerate all these Corrosion Effects !
When you finish , every point of connection and Contact needs to be Copiously Cleaned with Brake Cleaner Spray , as any residual Brake Fluid , being a Hydro-Scopic Fluid , will accumulate Atmospheric Humidity as Water and be yet again a new source of Corrosion .
Definitely a Learning Experience !
Adding SS to a regular Tube at a Union is by definition , a BiMetal Connection, which can and will start some version of Bi-Metalic Corrosion.
And , anywhere that a Brass connector/Converter is used , that also constitutes a Multi-Body-Metalic assembly , which generates its own Bi-Metalic Chemical EMF's from them just touching each other ; that is why some designers try to "float" brake lines in Rubber Mounts, but this is also self-defeating, especially in an area where any salt is used, as the Salt Brine runs along the Tubes till it reaches any object, where it sits and also begins its Corrosive Process !!! Same thing goes for those Very Pretty "Coils" that some folks Wrap around their Brake Lines , almost as good as a Sponge in Absorbing & Holding Water , Salt , and every manner of other things found along any road environment !
In addition, he may want to Verify (or Re-Do with new-wiring !) the Entire Ground System in that area , as Rear-End Electrical Currents , lights , etc. , passing thru rusted Metal Frame parts, on its way back to the Battery , can accelerate all these Corrosion Effects !
When you finish , every point of connection and Contact needs to be Copiously Cleaned with Brake Cleaner Spray , as any residual Brake Fluid , being a Hydro-Scopic Fluid , will accumulate Atmospheric Humidity as Water and be yet again a new source of Corrosion .
Definitely a Learning Experience !
This looks like it might be my summer for tough repairs. Up next is replacing a rear wheel bearing assembly on my 2008 Prius with 288,000 miles that doesn't want to come out. Then another rear wheel bearing assembly on our 2017 Outback that is starting to make noise. I am reading horror stories about that one.
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As stated earlier , your new work areas should be left in the Open ,so you can get at them easier .. Next Time !
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Put Penetrating Fluid on it several days early to get a Head Start on Mother-Nature's Revenge ... !
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sounds like you should invest in a slide hammer and a sledgehammer + wedges haha. at least they waited until the warmer months to crap out, ive been procrastinating on replacing a set of front control arms/ball joints all winter
I should own stock in PB Blaster.