Tuning on a 1992 Loyale

[Phaedras]

I recently purchased a used Sube Loyale with 70K miles for a song
(speak, 800$). I'm currently doing all I can to get the engine up to
speed (literally). I've already done the basics, plugs, wire, filters,
etc. (fuel filter seemed to be original from 92!) and the engine is
already sounding better, but there are some minor annoyances I don't
know how to deal with:

1. AC compressor is making an annoying swish-swish noise the minute
the engine turns on. After an unrelated engine compartment wash the
noise actually stopped for several minutes before coming back. Could
this be a dry or misaligned belt?

2. Check engine light is on and from what I can gather, the solenoid
valve is at fault. (assuming a repeating 3 long blinks and 4 quick
blinks means a code 34) Can I somehow clean and reinstall this or is
there even a way I can disable the whole EGR circuit all together AND
have it not affect the diagnostics readout?

3. Are there any mufflers that I can use on my car that will allow
better performance but NOT sound like my car has indigestion? Or can I
just grab a Dynaflow (or whatever the name was) from Autozone?

4. Any other tips for improving the overall performance of the car,
save getting a larger engine?

 

[Rick Courtright]

noise actually stopped for several minutes before coming back. Could
this be a dry or misaligned belt?

Could be dry. Try a bar of soap--rub it against both sides of the belt
as the engine idles (be VERY careful not to catch anything, like hands,
clothing or hair!) If the noise goes away, it's probably just a dry
belt. Sometimes tightening helps, but it's hit or miss.

blinks means a code 34) Can I somehow clean and reinstall this or is
there even a way I can disable the whole EGR circuit all together AND

That's both a trouble prone AND expensive part. Sometimes it helps to
open the connection between the solenoid and the main wiring harness and
shoot some contact cleaner, or WD-40 inside on the contacts, then
reconnect and disconnect a coupla times to get any corrosion knocked
loose. If that works, then open the connection one more time and put
some dielectric grease (auto parts store--tiny tube lasts a long time)
in there. Once upon a time I saw a Subaru TSB that suggested this on all
the electrical connections in the engine compartment (EXCEPT O2
sensor!!!) Might help. If you have to replace the solenoid, try a junk
yard first. A lot of times you can find one for just a few dollars
instead of the $100 to $135 the dealer's quoted me.

On higher performance? Well... you might find something, but other than
adding a turbo, trying to up the output of an EA-82 engine's probably a
little like putting a $100 saddle on a $10 horse and thinking the horse
will run faster.

Best of luck,

Rick

 

[Ed Fortmiller]

1. AC compressor is making an annoying swish-swish noise the minute
the engine turns on. After an unrelated engine compartment wash the
noise actually stopped for several minutes before coming back. Could
this be a dry or misaligned belt?

Get a spray bottle and squirt water on the belt, if the noise instantly goes
away then it is belt/pulley related.

I have a friend who has been a mechanic for eons and his solution to shut up
noisy belts is to put brake fluid on the belts. Don't know, I have never
tried it. He won't use belt dressing though as it gums things up.

--
Ed Fortmiller | (e-mail address removed) | Hudson MA
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[Hallraker]

On higher performance? Well... you might find something, but other than
adding a turbo, trying to up the output of an EA-82 engine's probably a
little like putting a $100 saddle on a $10 horse and thinking the horse
will run faster.

Indeed. I was waiting for someone else to say it, so that I could simply
agree rather than state it myself and then have some Loyale tuner come out
of the woodwork and flame me. Seriously though, in 4 years of Subaru
ownership and over 6 years in interest, I've never come across a "high
performance" tuned Loyale. Yes, there were turbo models, but no offense to
turbo Loyale owners, but as I understand it the turbo was there more to make
up for a lack of power, than to add to an abundance of it.

I'm sure if you called around you could find some company out there that
made a cold air intake and performance exhaust that would fit your car. But
I'm kind of skeptical about those products and the numbers they claim to
generate. In my (admittedly) limited experience, everything starts INSIDE
the engine, not outside. In regards to that, I've never heard of internal
performance parts for Subarus of that era, so at this point you'd be looking
at an engine swap, something along the lines of an EJ25 turbo. I have seen
pictures of a BRAT or GL with an EJ22, but that had a driveline swap as well
as an engine swap. Lots of work I'll bet.

-Matt

 

[David Hooey]

Which year is it?
1) Does the AC work? Try removing the AC belt. then you know where the
source is.

2) There are is a green connector near the wiper motor on my 92 that enables
the dealer diagnostics. Disconnect this connector. Mine also has a white
connector disconnected in this same area but I don't know what that one is
for. When I tried it the CHECK ENGINE light came on solid.
When I tried my green connector, the diagnostic just blinked on and off.
Does this mean anything or is it normal? There was no pattern or code, just
on and off blinking.

3) better performance = more noise, not much you can do about it.
4) air filter, exhaust, remove unnecessary weight (passengers, seats, skid
plates), alloy wheels