Offboard hybridization

simple leaf spring suspensions yaw - that's one of the fundamental
weaknesses of that configuration.  multi-link suspension simply doesn't,
so it makes for a much more stable towing platform.  i call that
stability "better handling", but you might have a different word for it.

How did that 'un-absurd' what you said?

The only time I ever experienced yaw in all the towing I've done is
when I towed a full size bronco on a 1500 pound trailer with a 1990
S-10... an 8500 pound load with a vehicle designed to tow 1500 pounds
The fact is that the yaw issue you spoke of is non existent when you
tow a within design limits.
Cheers,
Ben
 
With the two axles the extra load on the rear of the car should be
minimal
if at all present. No?
If so then the (rear) tire load handling capacity should be
irrelevant.

One thing neglected in many towing capacity discussions is braking
effectiveness and control. Ever had a deer jump in front of you while
towing?
 
One thing neglected in many towing capacity discussions is braking
effectiveness and control.  Ever had a deer jump in front of you while
towing?

I'd have to venture a guess a single axle trailer with the front load
bias
would have an edge in that scenario because it will help to add weight
to the
rear axle of the car during brake dive (of the trailer)

On the other hand in emergency braking a single axle trailer say,
loaded with 2000lbs worth
of cargo could easily outstrip the claimed tire load capacity
resulting in
the rear tires blowing up. That's entirely depend on how
overengineered
a given tire is in a given size.

Thumper, did you have a deer jump in front of you while towing and
want to shed some
specifics on the subject?
 
Pre heater would not do you much good if

"would"???  "if"???  you're obviously not speaking from experience.

 > the diesel solidifies in
the tank, diesel pump or the diesel lines going into the engine.
But, then, it's more of an issue for canadians.

and yet despite your fud, the canadians, [and russians, and alaskans]
seem to manage to run diesels throughout the winter.  thus, you're
either willfully blind to reality, or you're just a troll seeking to
help keep americans stuck with low-efficiency vehicles while we waste
our money on foreign oil.


Pre heater also adds complexity. You should've seen the guy poking in
the MMI menus on A6 to program the thing to start in a few minutes.

as opposed to some guy poking about on the internet trying to find out
whether canadia shuts down every winter because he thinks they're so
retarded, they can't figure out what "diesel #1" is?

http://www.newswire.ca/en/releases/archive/February2011/11/c2116.html
Is this recent enough for you?
 
do you much good if the diesel solidifies in
the tank, diesel pump or the diesel lines going into the engine.
But, then, it's more of an issue for canadians.

Pre heater also adds complexity. You should've seen the guy poking in
the MMI menus on A6 to program the thing to start in a few minutes.
*******
True. Well conditioned "winter" diesel shouldnt give much
of a problem anyway, but there are times when winter comes
effectively before the "summer" diesel is off the market.

Diesel additives would give you protection during the changeover period.
 
do you much good if the diesel solidifies in
the tank, diesel pump or the diesel lines going into the engine.
But, then, it's more of an issue for canadians.

Pre heater also adds complexity. You should've seen the guy poking in
the MMI menus on A6 to program the thing to start in a few minutes.
*******
True.   Well conditioned "winter" diesel shouldnt give much
of a problem anyway, but there are times when winter comes
effectively before the "summer" diesel is off the market.

Diesel additives would give you protection during the changeover period.

And would do no harm to the engine I'm sure.
Around here kerosene and gasoline are common "additives"

And then there are desperate luddittes with boiling water in the
kettles...
 
And would do no harm to the engine I'm sure.
Around here kerosene and gasoline are common "additives"

And then there are desperate luddittes with boiling water in the
kettles...

speaking for yourself no doubt.
 
On Sep 10, 5:04 am, (e-mail address removed) wrote:
On Sep 8, 1:58 am, AD<(e-mail address removed)> �wrote:
A thought occurred to me last night: why do you need to bother with
lugging a huge battery onboard
when you could just flush the battery and the motor(s) into the floor
of a purpose built trailers.
This solves the the hard winter starts problem and awd (lack of it)
problem for BRZ in winter
by providing 4x6 layout and allows for a 6x6 setup for the rest of the
subaru lineup. Just hitch up the trailer,
plug the trailer cable and (hopefully) go. But then, there is an issue
of folks
insisting on running all season tires on the trailer year round.
With a two wheel trailer you could have a 6x8 and 8x8 setups: the heft
of the battery should reliably
anchor the trailer to the ground allowing for a perfect 50:50 weight
spit between the wheels.
Me thinks having a horse trailer would work even better since there is
600 kilo worth of meat
helping the wheels to cut through the snow (multiple that by 2 for a
double, but
then there is an issue of a unperfect weight distribution side to
side)
I think Chrysler and others have done related concept vehicles - where
different components are hooked together. Like turning your small
commuter into a passenger van etc.
I suspect there are a lot of reasons why we don't see the kind of
innovation you're suggesting. Safety regs being one of them. Why try
something radically different if it opens you up to risks your
competitors aren't taking? In a climate where one or a dozen idiots, a
frenzied media, and 'maybe' a coupla sticking accelerator pedals can
almost bankrupt Toyota? I mean, we now have to have cars with
collision avoidance and back-up cameras. Imagine the average person
trying to regularly and SAFELY hook up to and drive with a trailer -
particularly one that may have huge amounts of battery energy stored
on board. And where do you park this thing when not being used?
I bet there are terabytes of cool ideas from automotive engineers that
are shelved because cars have to be built to easily and safely be
operated by folks that have the mental capacity of a distracted 3rd
grader.
Carl, I hate the idea of a suburu hybrid so much that I just could not
help myself.
In fact I hate it even more than the idea of a subaru diesel.
For all I care they could've stuck the hybrid powertrain into diesel
models only:
so that you could have some alternative means of propulsion when
that tractor of a car warms up in winter, that, or when the diesel
solidifies
and the only way for you to get off the fucking motorway is by
electric
propulsion.
Hybrid powertrain should be mandatory on diesels to mitigate the risk
of traffic congestion
they create in below zero F temps by stalling and blocking the
traffic.
Idiots that are too stupid or cheap to add winter fuel conditioner
shouldn't drive diesels. And a pre-heater never hurt either.
Pre heater would not do you much good if

"would"??? �"if"??? �you're obviously not speaking from experience.

�> the diesel solidifies in
the tank, diesel pump or the diesel lines going into the engine.
But, then, it's more of an issue for canadians.

and yet despite your fud, the canadians, [and russians, and alaskans]
seem to manage to run diesels throughout the winter. �thus, you're
either willfully blind to reality, or you're just a troll seeking to
help keep americans stuck with low-efficiency vehicles while we waste
our money on foreign oil.


Pre heater also adds complexity. You should've seen the guy poking in
the MMI menus on A6 to program the thing to start in a few minutes.

as opposed to some guy poking about on the internet trying to find out
whether canadia shuts down every winter because he thinks they're so
retarded, they can't figure out what "diesel #1" is?

http://www.newswire.ca/en/releases/archive/February2011/11/c2116.html
Is this recent enough for you?

timing has nothing to do with it - and rudolph diesel envisioned using
vegetable oil from the very beginning.

anyway, that's a political issue, not a technical issue. you simply use
a lower weight mass spectrum for winter fuel than summer. from where
it's derived is utterly irrelevant.
 
How did that 'un-absurd' what you said?

The only time I ever experienced yaw in all the towing I've done is
when I towed a full size bronco on a 1500 pound trailer with a 1990
S-10... an 8500 pound load with a vehicle designed to tow 1500 pounds
The fact is that the yaw issue you spoke of is non existent when you
tow a within design limits.
Cheers,
Ben

with respect, simply reducing load does not remove the fundamental
design issue with leaf springs - there is no lateral triangulation and
thus no lateral rigidity. simply reducing load just makes the problem
smaller, it doesn't make it go away.

by way of contrast, we've managed to [slowly] pull our heads out of the
sand on engine technology - we no longer have manual ignition timing
controls on our steering wheels for example. we need to pull ourselves
out of the 19th century and abandon what is in reality horse-cart
suspension for our motorized carriages. unless we want to continue to
drive at horse-cart speeds and with horse-cart loads.
 
A thought occurred to me last night: why do you need to bother with
lugging a huge battery onboard
when you could just flush the battery and the motor(s) into the floor
of a purpose built trailers.
This solves the the hard winter starts problem and awd (lack of it)
problem for BRZ in winter
by providing 4x6 layout and allows for a 6x6 setup for the rest of the
subaru lineup. Just hitch up the trailer,
plug the trailer cable and (hopefully) go. But then, there is an issue
of folks
insisting on running all season tires on the trailer year round.
With a two wheel trailer you could have a 6x8 and 8x8 setups: the heft
of the battery should reliably
anchor the trailer to the ground allowing for a perfect 50:50 weight
spit between the wheels.
Me thinks having a horse trailer would work even better since there is
600 kilo worth of meat
helping the wheels to cut through the snow (multiple that by 2 for a
double, but
then there is an issue of a unperfect weight distribution side to
side)
There are issues with having a trailer provide driving force. It plays
with the handling balance of the car if you start to get to meaningful
levels of thrust.
Toyota actually had an EV RAV-4 for fleet use about a decade ago. It
had a generator trailer that worked pretty well, but it wasn't a
pusher. It was just a generator with cables that ran to the RAV-4.
Trailers are not zero load as far as rolling resistance, aero load, or
weight.
I don't think a subaru should ever be hooked up to a horse trailer.
Even if it had its own power. The car just has too little weight and
wheelbase to handle a trailer with that much mass.

you've been brainwashed.

<http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008/02/the-great-american-anti-towi...>

<http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010/01/whats-wrong-with-this-pictur...>

i have personally towed a [hydraulic braked] twin axle three horse
trailer, load: one ornery 200lb pig and several full size straw bales,
with an 1100cc fwd car. �the steepest grade was about 25% and we took in
1st gear, but it made it. �and the vehicle handling was better than a
traditional truck because its independent rear suspension was not
subject to yaw like leaf springs are*.

sure, a more powerful vehicle would have been nice to have, and
certainly a good deal faster up hill, but our culturally ingrained fear
and trepidation about needing 5+ liters of v8 to tow<3000lbs of trailer
is without foundation, and frankly, after that experience, completely
ridiculous.
a Trailer capacble
of handing 600 kilos of horse, with electric motors and batteries
likely weighs nearly 2000 kilos completely loaded. You're not going to
catch me driving a car on 16 inch wheels with 205 or 225 series tires
sheparding along a trailer that weighs as much as, or more than the
car.

* "duallies" are a ridiculous concept. �tires don't improve yaw
stability, suspension does. �as long as detroit keeps churning out
trucks with leaf spring rears, we're always going to have towing yaw
stability problems.

You're right all my engineering professors

you need to travel the world and see other designs up close my friend.
and so do your engineering professors if what you say is actually true.

even if you don't care to travel, you could borrow a non-usa automotive
design book from a library and glimpse how the rest of the world managed
to figure this stuff out without the help of our esteemed education system,

the "bosch automotive handbook" is a simplistic, but good place to start.

brainwashed me into
thinking that it's not a good idea to use the wrong tool for the job.
You might have successfully used an 1100 cc car to pull a trailer much
larger than the car itself, but you were confined to using first gear.
The fact that you then go into a discussion fo dynamic handling is
ironic since your system had just barely crossed the line from static
to dynamic.

There are many jobs that can be done with non-ideal tools, but it
either makes it harder or unsafe. I think that using a subaru to tow a
trailer at highway speeds that large is unsafe. Possible to do, but
unsafe.

"to the man with a hammer, everything looks like a nail".
 
One thing neglected in many towing capacity discussions is braking
effectiveness and control. Ever had a deer jump in front of you while
towing?

couldn't agree more. traditional electric brakes and their controllers
make a mockery of this scenario. hydraulic brakes are fully load
modulated by definition. other than something that's controlled by the
towing vehicle's own braking circuits, it's by far the best solution.
 
not

do you much good if the diesel solidifies in
the tank, diesel pump or the diesel lines going into the engine.
But, then, it's more of an issue for canadians.

Pre heater also adds complexity. You should've seen the guy poking in
the MMI menus on A6 to program the thing to start in a few minutes.
*******
True. Well conditioned "winter" diesel shouldnt give much
of a problem anyway, but there are times when winter comes
effectively before the "summer" diesel is off the market.

Diesel additives would give you protection during the changeover period.

And would do no harm to the engine I'm sure.
Around here kerosene and gasoline are common "additives"

And then there are desperate luddittes with boiling water in the
kettles...
*******
I know you and I understand each other, but for any newbies
that might be reading this thread, properly formulated additives
for diesel cause no harm to the engine.

Adding gasoline, kerosene, etc to the diesel fuel CAN cause
damage.

And dont get tempted to spray starter fluid (ether and hydrocarbons) into a
diesel air intake. You may get it
started, but you can easily damage a diesel engine with
this stuff.
 
And would do no harm to the engine I'm sure.
Around here kerosene and gasoline are common "additives"

And then there are desperate luddittes with boiling water in the
kettles...
*******
I know you and I understand each other, but for any newbies
that might be reading this thread, properly formulated additives
for diesel cause no harm to the engine.

Adding gasoline, kerosene, etc to the diesel fuel CAN cause
damage.

And dont get tempted to spray starter fluid (ether and hydrocarbons)
into a diesel air intake. You may get it
started, but you can easily damage a diesel engine with
this stuff.

yeah? rather than just spread fud, why don't you explain exactly /why/?
 
I'd have to venture a guess a single axle trailer with the front load
bias
would have an edge in that scenario because it will help to add weight
to the
rear axle of the car during brake dive (of the trailer)

And remove weight from the front axle? Perhaps?
Regardless - a trailer weighing more than half theweight of the towing
vehicle - without brakes, is NOT RECOMMENDED, and in many places is
ILLEGAL.
On the other hand in emergency braking a single axle trailer say,
loaded with 2000lbs worth
of cargo could easily outstrip the claimed tire load capacity
resulting in
the rear tires blowing up. That's entirely depend on how
overengineered
a given tire is in a given size.

In MOST cases, in an emergency braking situation, the unbraked trailer
LIGHTENS the rear of the car, because as the rear end comes up, the
trailer gets UNDER the hitch - regardless of the weight bias, and
tries to push the hitch forward from below.
 
And would do no harm to the engine I'm sure.
Around here kerosene and gasoline are common "additives"

And then there are desperate luddittes with boiling water in the
kettles...
*******
I know you and I understand each other, but for any newbies
that might be reading this thread, properly formulated additives
for diesel cause no harm to the engine.

Adding gasoline, kerosene, etc to the diesel fuel CAN cause
damage.

And dont get tempted to spray starter fluid (ether and hydrocarbons) into a
diesel air intake. You may get it
started, but you can easily damage a diesel engine with
this stuff.
IMPROPER use of starting fluid can damage a diesel engine - but MANY
deisels in the past were FACTORY EQUIPPED with ether start systems.
Ether is MUCH more dangerous to the common gasoline engine than to a
diesel.
 
And remove weight from the front axle? Perhaps?
Regardless - a trailer weighing more than half theweight of the towing
vehicle - without brakes

"without brakes" being the magic words.
 
IMPROPER use of starting fluid can damage a diesel engine - but MANY
deisels in the past were FACTORY EQUIPPED with ether start systems.
Ether is MUCH more dangerous to the common gasoline engine than to a
diesel.

c'mon dude, it's not reasonable to expect people to actually know what
they're talking about before they express an opinion. or more
importantly, present that underinformed opinion as fact...
 
IMPROPER use of starting fluid can damage a diesel engine - but MANY
deisels in the past were FACTORY EQUIPPED with ether start systems.
Ether is MUCH more dangerous to the common gasoline engine than to a
diesel.

The "IMPROPER use" problem is a human one. Too many people think that if
a little bit makes it start (albeit slowly), a whole bunch more will
make it start RIGHT NOW.

The same problem exists when "priming" a gasoline engine with liquid
gasoline poured or sprayed into the intake.

That's why the "ether start systems" came out years ago (IIRC, the
military started that back in WWII). All those do (basically) is inject
a measured "known good" amount of ether. Some of them have interlocks
and timing systems, but it's still the same basic idea, preventing
overkill.

I've "ethered" thousands of gasoline and diesel engines over the years
manually and have never "lifted a head", but just because I said this,
it'll happen on the next one!



--
"Shit this is it, all the pieces do fit.
We're like that crazy old man jumping
out of the alleyway with a baseball bat,
saying, "Remember me motherfucker?"
Jim “Dandy” Mangrum
 
no.  and i didn't decide to demonstrate my low i.q. either.
Don't be hard on yourself. You seem to be smarter than
you try to appear with the claim that a cheap ass passenger car
that detroit bean counters worked tirelessly on could ever match
the sophistication and all weather performance of a quarter million
"nearly everything is heated" rig delivering a trailerful of diapers
to the frigid parts of the canada.

I have no problem with an idea of a $40k+ diesel. But I hardly doubt
FHI could build a sub $30k one
with the corner cases (frigid weather) handled properly.
 

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