Help Diagnosis :Help Replacement of CVT Transmission Help

[tim&liz]

Note :
Letter sent to Renee Rhem , VP Customer Advocacy and Margaret C. , Manager Customer Advocacy

After running 86,000 miles (Plus or minus), we had to bring the car to Livermore Subaru because of the noise o the middle section of the car WITH OUT any warning lights. In turns out, after extensive diagnostics testing, “the noise is coming from the inside of the CVT transmission assembly” with the estimate of $11,784.38 for a new transmission.
We requested to extend the transmission warranty as NOTED Service Bulletin Number 16-107-17R dated 06/21/17 and revised on 11/09/17 for our Subaru Forester 2014.
Our records show recurring CVT transmission issues, which we have consistently reported:

• March 3, 2020: At 58,543 miles, Diablo Subaru noted issues with high RPM and improper shifting. Diagnostic tech notes indicated transmission problems.
• November 20, 2020: At 61,023 miles, Diablo Subaru addressed a transmission valve body replacement and identified a fault in the pressure control circuit.
• October 5, 2022: At 72,593 miles, Diablo Subaru found transmission fluid seepage . The oil leaks from front timing cover , leading to repairs and reseal costing $2,468.51.
• August 22, 2024: At approximately 84,000 miles, Livermore Subaru confirmed the need for a CVT transmission replacement.

Given our history of reported issues and diligent maintenance, The initial CVT transmission problems noted on March 3, 2020, should have been addressed under the warranty and extended warranty provisions. We have always adhered to recommended maintenance schedules and promptly addressed any issues. We kept all our Subaru Forester Service and Maintenance records.
( Available for review)
Unfortunately Subaru of America, insisted that because of the age of the car ,Subaru of America will not extend the warranty for the transmission.
Help Subaru Community. We love our Subaru because of Subaru's reputation.

 

[Trailboss]

Tim,
It sounds like you handled it professionally, and all of your services were duly noted at your local Subaru dealership, but you hit a wall with a bean counter.

Here in Arizona, we have “7 on your side” with a consumer advocate that from what I have seen gets amazing results for Joe sixpack. These manufacturers do not want bad press and often roll out the red carpet when they sense bad publicity.

I would copy and paste what you said, and make sure that you highlight the low mileage considering the age of the car and your diligence in having your car serviced regularly.

7 on your side, Bay area:

Contact 7 On Your Side

Do you have an issue with a company that you haven't been able to resolve? If so, 7 On Your Side wants to help you!

abc7news.com

 

[Trailboss]

Be sure to check in if this helps!

 

[keith3267]

Find another dealer if you can. Find a transmission specialist if you can, avoid AAMCO if you can. CVT's are relatively simple and should cost a lot less than a geared transmission. They can be rebuilt but trained techs are hard to find right now.

It is possible that the only bad part is the viscous clutch that sends power between the front axle and the rear. They are easily damaged if you ever ran mismatched tires for more than a few miles. The limits are in your owners manual.

$11700+ is way over priced in my opinion.

 

[tim&liz]

Thank you. I do appreciate your advice.

 

[Night mission]

What year Forester and can you describe the noise?

 

[tim&liz]

With out warning lights on the dash board ,Whining noise near midsection of my Subaru Forester 2014.

 

[keith3267]

My 2014 Legacy makes a whining noise near the midsection and has since almost new. Has 143k on it now. Wheel bearings on my Legacy were crap and they made a lot of whining noise too.

I'm not paying for a new transmission over a little whining noise, did replace the hubs though.

BTW, never ran odd size tires except for a couple of miles when I had a blowout from a nail and had to use the spare.

 

[tim&liz]

I do not know about car repair. The diagnostic test by Sabaru dealer said transmission is the problem.

 

[keith3267]

According to KBB, a replacement transmission should cost between $8-8.5k to replace. Still too high IMO, they just aren't that complicated compared to the 8-9-10 speed geared transmissions today.

You do not need to know about car repair. Car repair is a business transaction and you should treat it as such. You are in a good position as you can take your car different places for opinions and quotes. Not the same as a break down where your car is towed to a shop and you are at their mercy or you pay a lot of tow fees to take your car to different shops for opinions.

Whining noises come from bearings mostly. Differentials tend to whine more than transmissions, and your front differential is located between the engine and the transmission. You cannot tell the if the whine is coming from the differential or the transmission from the drivers seat.

Unless you paid a diagnostic fee ($105-150) and a certified mechanic performed diagnostics as outlined in the factory service manual, then I would not consider the diagnosis to be valid. Service managers are NOT diagnosticians nor mechanics. Their primary job is to get you to agree to high cost repairs that may not be needed OR get you into the show room to buy a new vehicle.

Noises are very difficult to pinpoint because sound travels through metal much faster than through air. As a result the source of a noise can sound like it is close to you, but can actually be some distance away. The wheel bearing whines that I had all sounded like they were coming from the center of the car, but there is a specific test to isolate wheel bearing noise that you can do. Wheel bearings make more noise when you are cornering, particularly if you are on a winding road. As you go through corners at a medium speed, the whine will get louder or softer depending on the location of the bad bearing. As the bearings get worse, they go from a whine to a sound similar to a propeller on a small airplane.

So I suggest you look for independent shops and other dealerships and have them take a look. Check with friends, co-workers and relatives for recommendations on good independent mechanics.

BTW, a whine is mostly annoying, it does not mean immanent failure. They are annoying though. When the whine turns to more of a rumble, then get concerned. Bearing that whine will usually still pass wear tests. Every one I tested that just whined always passed.

 

[tim&liz]

According to KBB, a replacement transmission should cost between $8-8.5k to replace. Still too high IMO, they just aren't that complicated compared to the 8-9-10 speed geared transmissions today.

You do not need to know about car repair. Car repair is a business transaction and you should treat it as such. You are in a good position as you can take your car different places for opinions and quotes. Not the same as a break down where your car is towed to a shop and you are at their mercy or you pay a lot of tow fees to take your car to different shops for opinions.

Whining noises come from bearings mostly. Differentials tend to whine more than transmissions, and your front differential is located between the engine and the transmission. You cannot tell the if the whine is coming from the differential or the transmission from the drivers seat.

Unless you paid a diagnostic fee ($105-150) and a certified mechanic performed diagnostics as outlined in the factory service manual, then I would not consider the diagnosis to be valid. Service managers are NOT diagnosticians nor mechanics. Their primary job is to get you to agree to high cost repairs that may not be needed OR get you into the show room to buy a new vehicle.

Noises are very difficult to pinpoint because sound travels through metal much faster than through air. As a result the source of a noise can sound like it is close to you, but can actually be some distance away. The wheel bearing whines that I had all sounded like they were coming from the center of the car, but there is a specific test to isolate wheel bearing noise that you can do. Wheel bearings make more noise when you are cornering, particularly if you are on a winding road. As you go through corners at a medium speed, the whine will get louder or softer depending on the location of the bad bearing. As the bearings get worse, they go from a whine to a sound similar to a propeller on a small airplane.

So I suggest you look for independent shops and other dealerships and have them take a look. Check with friends, co-workers and relatives for recommendations on good independent mechanics.

BTW, a whine is mostly annoying, it does not mean immanent failure. They are annoying though. When the whine turns to more of a rumble, then get concerned. Bearing that whine will usually still pass wear tests. Every one I tested that just whined always passed.

Thank you . I do appreciate your very informative comment