99 Legacy sedan 2.2L - Loosing power after backing up

[MM]

When I back up with my front wheels sharply turned, I frequently feel loss
of power and some jerkiness in the car movement. When I switch to drive
after that (it's an auto), there is no power at all as if the engine was
totally disconnected from the transmission. Stopping and restarting the
engine fixes the problem every time. I got used to this, but it is
annoying... What can it be? Thanks.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

When I back up with my front wheels sharply turned, I frequently feel loss
of power and some jerkiness in the car movement. When I switch to drive
after that (it's an auto), there is no power at all as if the engine was
totally disconnected from the transmission. Stopping and restarting the
engine fixes the problem every time. I got used to this, but it is
annoying... What can it be? Thanks.

Well, there should be a slot labeled FWD in the fuse box under the
hood. In the lid, there probably are 2-3 spare fuses. Check your
manual to be certain, but I THINK putting a 20 or 30 amp fuse in the
FWD position should force your car into FWD only mode (you're supposed
to do this if you use a donut spare or different sized tire, to
prevent torque bind). See if there is any change in the turning, gear-
shifting bahavior. If there IS, it points to the wet-clutch pack in
the tail of the transmission. If there is no change, it still 'could'
be a transmission problem, just of a different type.

Also, I believe someone posted here that there is a 'friction
modifier' additive that some folks find helpful. IIRC it was Ford
product?

anyone?

 

[MM]

Thanks a lot! Just one more question. If it is the wet-clutch pack in the
tail of the transmission as you say, how expensive is it going to be to fix?
And if I don't fix, is it going to get much worse?

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks a lot! Just one more question. If it is the wet-clutch pack in the
tail of the transmission as you say, how expensive is it going to be to fix?
And if I don't fix, is it going to get much worse?

Yes, it will be $$$ to repair. Of course you also have options of
replacing the entire transmission with rebuilt or junkyard unit.

Some people just run with the FWD fuse in place and sacrifice the AWD
capability.

Do a search for 'torque bind'. Once you confirm it is a problem, then
you can better decide how to proceed. You might even consider running
in FWD mode while saving up for the work and locating a transmission
shop. DO make certain your tires are all the 'same'. Same brand and
wear. Mixing tire models, or putting one new tire on with the others
being bald,etc., can cause 'torque bind'. DO familiarize yourself with
the symptoms of torque bind, don't let a mechanic CLAIM you need a new
transmission. Just be certain before proceeding with anything
expensive. Posting your location here might get a recommendation from
someone familiar with a good Subaru mechanic in your area.

good luck

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

Thanks a lot! Just one more question. If it is the wet-clutch pack in the
tail of the transmission as you say, how expensive is it going to be to fix?
And if I don't fix, is it going to get much worse?

Yes, it will be $$$ to repair. Of course you also have options of
replacing the entire transmission with rebuilt or junkyard unit.

Some people just run with the FWD fuse in place and sacrifice the AWD
capability.

Do a search for 'torque bind'. Once you confirm it is a problem, then
you can better decide how to proceed. You might even consider running
in FWD mode while saving up for the work and locating a transmission
shop. DO make certain your tires are all the 'same'. Same brand and
wear. Mixing tire models, or putting one new tire on with the others
being bald,etc., can cause 'torque bind'. DO familiarize yourself with
the symptoms of torque bind, don't let a mechanic CLAIM you need a new
transmission. Just be certain before proceeding with anything
expensive. Posting your location here might get a recommendation from
someone familiar with a good Subaru mechanic in your area.

Some folks report binding from a frozen U-joint, so just make sure
where the problem is. The power loss you report seems odd so, just try
to do good diagnosis! lol!

good luck