2001 Forrester Fuel Hose leak

[Wade]

2001 Forrester 115K miles
Can someone please help .... my friend has a gas leak in the little
black hose near the fuel filter. The hose is about 3 inches long it is
secured on either side to a metal fuel line by small Phillips head
screws.
My question is ... is it easy to replace this section of hose by
myself?
What precautios do I need to take? For instance, will gas spray all
over the place because of the pressure?
I can't see an actual crack in the house, but it is wet with gasoline.
Apparently it has been this way for 1-2 weeks.
I am concerned about taking care of this asap.
Thanks for any tips!
Wade in Nashville

 

[Dave__67]

2001 Forrester 115K miles
Can someone please help .... my friend has a gas leak in the little
black hose near the fuel filter. The hose is about 3 inches long it is
secured on either side to a metal fuel line by small Phillips head
screws.
My question is ... is it easy to replace this section of hose by
myself?
What precautios do I need to take? For instance, will gas spray all
over the place because of the pressure?
I can't see an actual crack in the house, but it is wet with gasoline.
Apparently it has been this way for 1-2 weeks.
I am concerned about taking care of this asap.
Thanks for any tips!
Wade in Nashville

If this is a rubber hose with hose clamps on the ends, it is easy to
replace, just make sure you use fuel hose designed for fuel-injection
systems.

There may be a bit of pressure in the hose even after the car sits
overnight, but you can pull the fuel-pump fuse and try to start the
car several times to bleed off the pressure, or find the small fuel-
pressure gauge fitting and press in the center pin to relieve the
pressure (fuel comes out the valve).


Dave

 

[Wade]

Thanks, Dave, for quick response.
I talked to dealer service guy who confirmed the fuel hose should be
easy to replace, and said to be sure to use the right hose. It doesn't
sound like I need to get the factory Subaru part, and I don't know if
they have it or not, I don't have the VIN handy.
Do you know where I can find the fuel pump fuse? This is a friend's
car, I am not very familiar with it. Perhaps the manual tells me where
it is?
If I don't bleed off the pressure per your suggestion, will several
rags covering the hose be adequate? [I don't know if I will able to
locate the fuel pressure gauge fitting]
Thanks again,
Wade

p.s. on another note, do you know where the PCV valve is? I looked
briefly last nite, with not the best light, but could not find it. I
have a new one from AutoZone so I know what I am looking for.

 

[S]

Hi Wade, Dave, All!

Thanks, Dave, for quick response.
I talked to dealer service guy who confirmed the fuel hose should be
easy to replace, and said to be sure to use the right hose. It doesn't
sound like I need to get the factory Subaru part, and I don't know if
they have it or not, I don't have the VIN handy.
Do you know where I can find the fuel pump fuse? This is a friend's
car, I am not very familiar with it. Perhaps the manual tells me where
it is?
If I don't bleed off the pressure per your suggestion, will several
rags covering the hose be adequate? [I don't know if I will able to
locate the fuel pressure gauge fitting]

Wade, be sure to check that the hose clamps are tight before you get
too involved.

One tried and true way to deal with pressurized fuel line is to fit a
large diagonal cutter around the hose, wad a rag around everything,
and snip. Just be smart about it, OK? Might even want to pull the
battery ground wire before getting started.

You can get replacement fuel line at most any auto parts store. Be
sure to get line rated for fuel injection service, and take the old
line with you to be sure you get the correct size. If the hose is
difficult to remove, slit the hose where it fits over the steel line
with a single edged razor blade.

The PCV valve is on the right (passenger) side of the throttle body,
pretty well hidden by the associated hoses. The easiest way (maybe the
_only_ way) to get to it is to remove all of the intake plastic parts
and associated hoses.

This really isn't too hard if the engine compartment is warm; a hand
full of small screws holding the air box and resonator in place, a
couple large hose clamps, and finger clamps on the smaller hoses
associated with the PCV. After this, the whole thing lifts out intact.
This is a good time to replace the air filter as well; it's easier
with everything out of the car.

I can email the appropriate chunk from the service manual if you think
it will help, but it probably won't be necessary; Soobies are wondrous
easy to work on for the most part.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[Wade]

Thanks Steve,

When you wrote: > Wade, be sure to check that the hose clamps are
tight before you get

too involved.

Did you mean, make sure the leak is not just loose clamps?

Hi Wade, Dave, All!

Thanks, Dave, for quick response.
I talked to dealer service guy who confirmed the fuel hose should be
easy to replace, and said to be sure to use the right hose. It doesn't
sound like I need to get the factory Subaru part, and I don't know if
they have it or not, I don't have the VIN handy.
Do you know where I can find the fuel pump fuse? This is a friend's
car, I am not very familiar with it. Perhaps the manual tells me where
it is?
If I don't bleed off the pressure per your suggestion, will several
rags covering the hose be adequate? [I don't know if I will able to
locate the fuel pressure gauge fitting]

Wade, be sure to check that the hose clamps are tight before you get
too involved.

One tried and true way to deal with pressurized fuel line is to fit a
large diagonal cutter around the hose, wad a rag around everything,
and snip. Just be smart about it, OK? Might even want to pull the
battery ground wire before getting started.

You can get replacement fuel line at most any auto parts store. Be
sure to get line rated for fuel injection service, and take the old
line with you to be sure you get the correct size. If the hose is
difficult to remove, slit the hose where it fits over the steel line
with a single edged razor blade.

The PCV valve is on the right (passenger) side of the throttle body,
pretty well hidden by the associated hoses. The easiest way (maybe the
_only_ way) to get to it is to remove all of the intake plastic parts
and associated hoses.

This really isn't too hard if the engine compartment is warm; a hand
full of small screws holding the air box and resonator in place, a
couple large hose clamps, and finger clamps on the smaller hoses
associated with the PCV. After this, the whole thing lifts out intact.
This is a good time to replace the air filter as well; it's easier
with everything out of the car.

I can email the appropriate chunk from the service manual if you think
it will help, but it probably won't be necessary; Soobies are wondrous
easy to work on for the most part.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[S]

Hi Wade!

Thanks Steve,

When you wrote: > Wade, be sure to check that the hose clamps are
tight before you get

Did you mean, make sure the leak is not just loose clamps?

Just like that.

As the rubber hose ages, it becomes less resilient. This can lead to
small weeps (ie wet hose, no puddle of gas, no noticeable loss of
pressure/performance). Usually an extra turn or two on the clamp screw
will stop this. For awhile.

Outright replacement is always a better option, but We Be Lazy, and
firmly believe in the old adage:

Never do today what you can put off 'til tomorrow . . . ;-)

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

 

[gotbent]

Hi Wade!



Just like that.

As the rubber hose ages, it becomes less resilient. This can lead to
small weeps (ie wet hose, no puddle of gas, no noticeable loss of
pressure/performance). Usually an extra turn or two on the clamp screw
will stop this. For awhile.

Had leaks at the clamps on my '02 Forester a couple of months after a
tune-up where the hoses had been replaced. Seemed to be temp related. When
the temps ranges in single digits, we could smell gas in the car. I
tightened the clamps on a couple of short rubber fuel hoses. I had to do
repeat with the next temp swing from warmer to figid. Haven't had the
problem since.

 

[gotbent]

Hi Wade!



Just like that.

As the rubber hose ages, it becomes less resilient. This can lead to
small weeps (ie wet hose, no puddle of gas, no noticeable loss of
pressure/performance). Usually an extra turn or two on the clamp screw
will stop this. For awhile.

Had leaks at the clamps on my '02 Forester a couple of months after a
tune-up where the hoses had been replaced. Seemed to be temp related. When
the temps ranges in single digits, we could smell gas in the car. I
tightened the clamps on a couple of short rubber fuel hoses. I had to do
repeat with the next temp swing from warmer to figid. Haven't had the
problem since.

 

[gotbent]

Hi Wade!



Just like that.

As the rubber hose ages, it becomes less resilient. This can lead to
small weeps (ie wet hose, no puddle of gas, no noticeable loss of
pressure/performance). Usually an extra turn or two on the clamp screw
will stop this. For awhile.

Had leaks at the clamps on my '02 Forester a couple of months after a
tune-up where the hoses had been replaced. Seemed to be temp related. When
the temps ranges in single digits, we could smell gas in the car. I
tightened the clamps on a couple of short rubber fuel hoses. I had to do
repeat with the next temp swing from warmer to figid. Haven't had the
problem since.

 

[Wade]

Thanks very much! Steve.
Looks like it was only a case of loose clamps. I tightened them up and
everything is cool now. We did get an extra piece of fuel hose that my
friend keeps in the car now. What about the clamps, do they ever
require replacement?

On another note ... so why do they use the short section of fuel hose?
One dealer service rep told me it is because it is cheaper to replace
one section of the metal fuel line as opposed to replacing the entire
line. Does this seem right?

Wade

 

[John Varela]

On another note ... so why do they use the short section of fuel hose?
One dealer service rep told me it is because it is cheaper to replace
one section of the metal fuel line as opposed to replacing the entire
line. Does this seem right?

I'm not sure what piece of hose you're asking about, but my guess
would be that if it runs from something attached to the car's frame
to something attached to the engine, it's to allow for engine motion
relative to the frame.